3G alternator: problem with pulley
#1
3G alternator: problem with pulley
I just put a 3G alternator on but the original pulley that was on the alternator can't be used.
Two problems.
1. The belt isn't large enough. It is about 1-2 inches too short. Even with the tensioner maxed out it can't be slipped on.
2. The original pulley looks like it is slightly too far back for the belt to line up. I was thinking a washer behind the pulley might line it up.
Can I use the OLD pulley from the 2G which would act like an overdrive pulley since it is smaller and would cause the alternator to spin faster?
Would this be dangerous and cause the alternator to put out too much power?
I do have a 175 amp mega fuse less than 6 inches from the positive terminal on the solenoid. I am also using 4 gauge wire.
I read the alternator is only a source of power and isn't actually putting out except what the car is pulling so would it matter if the alternator is spinning faster?
Two problems.
1. The belt isn't large enough. It is about 1-2 inches too short. Even with the tensioner maxed out it can't be slipped on.
2. The original pulley looks like it is slightly too far back for the belt to line up. I was thinking a washer behind the pulley might line it up.
Can I use the OLD pulley from the 2G which would act like an overdrive pulley since it is smaller and would cause the alternator to spin faster?
Would this be dangerous and cause the alternator to put out too much power?
I do have a 175 amp mega fuse less than 6 inches from the positive terminal on the solenoid. I am also using 4 gauge wire.
I read the alternator is only a source of power and isn't actually putting out except what the car is pulling so would it matter if the alternator is spinning faster?
#4
Well I did end up getting a new belt. I could not find a washer with the inside diameter large enough to fit over the shaft of the alternator. The new belt fits, but I still got to make sure it is lined up properly. I should have it fired up this morning if all goes right.
It is a 3G alternator off of a 95 Taurus 3.0. The mounting distance between the holes is 7".
I got the alternator mounted. Since I had an electric grinder it only took a couple of minutes to grind the bracket down.
I also reclocked the alternator at the 3 o'clock position for the plugs so their easier to get to and it hides the battery cable better.
I was going to buy a new alternator with a lifetime warranty but the cost without another 3g as a core is rediculous. I got this used alternator for $25 and it tested good at autozone so that's not a bad deal considering when this one goes bad and I turn it in as a core it is accepted as a $35 core. The alternator actually looked fairly new, like it had been replaced shortly before the car was wrecked.
It is a 3G alternator off of a 95 Taurus 3.0. The mounting distance between the holes is 7".
I got the alternator mounted. Since I had an electric grinder it only took a couple of minutes to grind the bracket down.
I also reclocked the alternator at the 3 o'clock position for the plugs so their easier to get to and it hides the battery cable better.
I was going to buy a new alternator with a lifetime warranty but the cost without another 3g as a core is rediculous. I got this used alternator for $25 and it tested good at autozone so that's not a bad deal considering when this one goes bad and I turn it in as a core it is accepted as a $35 core. The alternator actually looked fairly new, like it had been replaced shortly before the car was wrecked.
#5
Alright I got it fired up today. The car seemed to run fine and appears to be keeping the battery charged.
I checked the voltage at the battery with the car idling and it is 14.74 volts. After I turned it off the battery voltage still showed 12.56.
With the old alternator if I turned the lights on bright, heater on, stereo and amp, etc. the voltage would drop fairly low and stay but when I kick it all on now the voltage drops for a brief second and then instantly rises back up to around 14-15 volts.
I also found the old black/orange power wire that was running to the solenoid had overheated and had three bare spots. The wire was in bad shape. I saw the plastic coating was bubbled up and the three bare spots had green corrosion over it. One spot the wires were broken and only 4-6 strands remained intact so I'm surprised the car ran like that.
I also put a 6" piece of 4 gauge wire from the negative battery terminal to the fender apron. In the next day or two I'll be running another 4 gauge ground from the engine block to the firewall for that extra safety precaution.
I checked the voltage at the battery with the car idling and it is 14.74 volts. After I turned it off the battery voltage still showed 12.56.
With the old alternator if I turned the lights on bright, heater on, stereo and amp, etc. the voltage would drop fairly low and stay but when I kick it all on now the voltage drops for a brief second and then instantly rises back up to around 14-15 volts.
I also found the old black/orange power wire that was running to the solenoid had overheated and had three bare spots. The wire was in bad shape. I saw the plastic coating was bubbled up and the three bare spots had green corrosion over it. One spot the wires were broken and only 4-6 strands remained intact so I'm surprised the car ran like that.
I also put a 6" piece of 4 gauge wire from the negative battery terminal to the fender apron. In the next day or two I'll be running another 4 gauge ground from the engine block to the firewall for that extra safety precaution.
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10-06-2015 11:02 AM