Fog Lights and Brakes
10-16-2011, 10:30 PM
#14
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: PA
Posts: 823
Slotted will add bite, not drilled. Read this http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-p...ke-rotors1.htm
The thing is yeah it'll add more air to carry away heat, but less material will heat up quicker. The "benefit" of heat transfer is kinda defeated by its own design
The thing is yeah it'll add more air to carry away heat, but less material will heat up quicker. The "benefit" of heat transfer is kinda defeated by its own design
Let me school you...
A drilled rotor has less material than a non drilled rotor, but it also has much more surface area to dissipate heat. So yes, I agree it will heat up faster (but by such a little amount because the material removed is so little), BUT it will also cool down faster too... MUCH faster than a non drilled rotor.
Think of it this way, heat a 50 lb anvil and a framing nail to 500 degrees... then time how long it takes each of them to cool down to room temp. I think you get the idea. A lighter weight object with more surface area will cool down MUCH faster.
So the miniscule amount of material removed on a drilled rotor is going to make it heat up just slightly more than a non drilled rotor, however, the benifit of having those holes and the greatly increased surface area they produce to dissipate heat is a MUCH better trade than NOT having them.
You said you have never used drilled rotors and are giving me advice by linking to a "How Things Work" article (that is basically saying the same thing I've been trying to tell you), while I've said I have real world experience with this subject.... so, I don't think you have a clue what you're talking about.
I'm not going to beat my chest too much, but I'm 45 years old, have been racing and building cars since I was 18. I have ALOT of experience and got this way by listening to people who were smarter than me... not by telling them they are wrong about something like this whole brake debate we've gotten into. I've run drilled rotors and can jump out of one of my cars that doesn't have them and into one of my cars that does and I'm telling you they work better than a non drilled rotor, while you insist they aren't a good choice as you tell me you've never had any experience with them.
Now I'm done and you can post more links and try to convince others drilled rotors don't stop better because they have a smaller mass... but you're not going to convince me.
10-16-2011, 11:01 PM
#16
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: OH
Posts: 829
You need to take a physics class because if you think that because a drilled rotor has less material and will heat up quicker it makes them bad?
Let me school you...
A drilled rotor has less material than a non drilled rotor, but it also has much more surface area to dissipate heat. So yes, I agree it will heat up faster (but by such a little amount because the material removed is so little), BUT it will also cool down faster too... MUCH faster than a non drilled rotor.
Think of it this way, heat a 50 lb anvil and a framing nail to 500 degrees... then time how long it takes each of them to cool down to room temp. I think you get the idea. A lighter weight object with more surface area will cool down MUCH faster.
So the miniscule amount of material removed on a drilled rotor is going to make it heat up just slightly more than a non drilled rotor, however, the benifit of having those holes and the greatly increased surface area they produce to dissipate heat is a MUCH better trade than NOT having them.
You said you have never used drilled rotors and are giving me advice by linking to a "How Things Work" article (that is basically saying the same thing I've been trying to tell you), while I've said I have real world experience with this subject.... so, I don't think you have a clue what you're talking about.
I'm not going to beat my chest too much, but I'm 45 years old, have been racing and building cars since I was 18. I have ALOT of experience and got this way by listening to people who were smarter than me... not by telling them they are wrong about something like this whole brake debate we've gotten into. I've run drilled rotors and can jump out of one of my cars that doesn't have them and into one of my cars that does and I'm telling you they work better than a non drilled rotor, while you insist they aren't a good choice as you tell me you've never had any experience with them.
Now I'm done and you can post more links and try to convince others drilled rotors don't stop better because they have a smaller mass... but you're not going to convince me.
Let me school you...
A drilled rotor has less material than a non drilled rotor, but it also has much more surface area to dissipate heat. So yes, I agree it will heat up faster (but by such a little amount because the material removed is so little), BUT it will also cool down faster too... MUCH faster than a non drilled rotor.
Think of it this way, heat a 50 lb anvil and a framing nail to 500 degrees... then time how long it takes each of them to cool down to room temp. I think you get the idea. A lighter weight object with more surface area will cool down MUCH faster.
So the miniscule amount of material removed on a drilled rotor is going to make it heat up just slightly more than a non drilled rotor, however, the benifit of having those holes and the greatly increased surface area they produce to dissipate heat is a MUCH better trade than NOT having them.
You said you have never used drilled rotors and are giving me advice by linking to a "How Things Work" article (that is basically saying the same thing I've been trying to tell you), while I've said I have real world experience with this subject.... so, I don't think you have a clue what you're talking about.
I'm not going to beat my chest too much, but I'm 45 years old, have been racing and building cars since I was 18. I have ALOT of experience and got this way by listening to people who were smarter than me... not by telling them they are wrong about something like this whole brake debate we've gotten into. I've run drilled rotors and can jump out of one of my cars that doesn't have them and into one of my cars that does and I'm telling you they work better than a non drilled rotor, while you insist they aren't a good choice as you tell me you've never had any experience with them.
Now I'm done and you can post more links and try to convince others drilled rotors don't stop better because they have a smaller mass... but you're not going to convince me.
So to the OP, no, its not worth the pay off to buy drilled rotors, if anything run slotted as their original intent was actually to scuff asbestos pads that ran into glazing issues. This does allow your pads to retain a fresh bite.
10-18-2011, 04:16 PM
#17
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 632
I'm not looking for the best of the best like a $6,000 set of Brembo's, but I want something good. I'm not going to drag the car or anything like that. I was also wondering if it would be worth it (and what I would need to do) to upgrade the breaks to the Cobra set.... is it worth the money and hassle to do it? If not, is there a certain set of rotors and pads you guys would overall recommend? Sorry to sound like such a squid, but I don't know this car as well as I would like to yet. Thank you again for any help guys!
10-18-2011, 04:33 PM
#18
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: OH
Posts: 829
Like I said my brakes are very solid with the svo caliper swap, but I run ceramic rear pads and carbon metallic fronts. I also swapped to a turbo coupe rear which I find worth it. If you don't mind the drums then svo calipers are your cheapest upgrade with good pads and also extremely easy
10-18-2011, 05:19 PM
#19
M.A.D. Motorsports
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 8,014
I'm not looking for the best of the best like a $6,000 set of Brembo's, but I want something good. I'm not going to drag the car or anything like that. I was also wondering if it would be worth it (and what I would need to do) to upgrade the breaks to the Cobra set.... is it worth the money and hassle to do it? If not, is there a certain set of rotors and pads you guys would overall recommend? Sorry to sound like such a squid, but I don't know this car as well as I would like to yet. Thank you again for any help guys!
Which Cobra setup are you refering to? Are you talking about switching to 5 lug as well or what?
You could do this if you want something other than stock OTS brakes....
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...it-With-Plated
I would just save your money and do the SVO stuff with good pads...
10-18-2011, 05:42 PM
#20
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 632
Yea, I was talking about switching to the 5 lug set up, but I'm thinking it's probably more money than it's worth... but who knows? By the way would it be worth it to upgrade the rear drums to rotors? If so what would be the best way to go about it? Also, thank you for all of your advice. So far I'm thinking that it would be the best to get drilled and slotted rotors with decent pads. I guessing that the slotted rotors will eat up pads more than regular rotors.
Last edited by yurizx6r; 10-18-2011 at 06:05 PM.