kweb288

Ok guys so i am having a hell of a time figuring this out, been trouble shooting with both strange and skinny kid race car along with a couple mechanics, still cant figure out my brake problem so i am posting this up on a couple forums to see if any of you have some ideas.
Start with the front of the system, i have a strange master with a manual brake system that is part number B3359TA with a 1.125" bore, the kit is designed to be used WITHOUT the factory proportioning valve. This is my SECOND master from strange while trying to figure this out, and it was bench bled before being installed on the car.

on the front system i have a set of basically stock replacment "upgraded brakes", 2 piston hawk padded slotted roters... nothing crazy at all. Inbetween the brakes and mastercylinder lies a hust line lock, which does work great when activated (tried it out )

off of the master towards the rears i have a 5# check valve to keep preasure in the lines, and then a willwood brake preasure adjuster to adjust how much preasure is sent to either fronts or rears.
in the back are 4 piston, slotted rottars from strange



front brakes

rear brakes



all lines are new, with braded aluminum up front

i have tried 3 different types of power bleeders and different methods of bleeding

Tony71502

So I'm guessing the question is you can't get the system bled? Can you post a picture of the check valve? Why are you using a check valve? They are valves designed for one-directional fluid flow. Brake systems require two directional fluid flow...

Why aren't you running it:

Master Cylinder front line >> Line lock >> T-block >> Both Front Calipers
Master Cylinder rear line >> Adj Prop Valve >> Rear End T-block >> rear calipers

kweb288

the check valve is to prevent the fluid from flowing back into the master from the rear brakes keeping fluid in the rear lines. Everything that has been done to the system has been told to me by strange....

Tony71502

If the fluid can't flow back into the master cylinder from the rear brakes then how do you expect to use them? the fluid has to exit the caliper to retract the pistons. Otherwise your rear brakes are permanently engaged... assuming you get them bled.

kweb288

not true, its a check valve.... set at 5# WHICH means that it will only keep 5# of preasure in the system at times when the brakes are not ingaged
EVERY ford has one on the rear brake system, go look at your line near the fire wall running to the rear, it almost looks like an alene wrench over the line
http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0PDoS67dy...ck-valves.html

AdderMk2

were all of the power bleeders used at the calipers? Did you use a force bleeder? did you ever think to start from the end of the system and start loosening lines until you found the restriction?

Tony71502

Are you silly, I replaced that union fitting with an adjustable prop valve. All that is is a union fitting. FORD calls for removing that and replacing it with their adjustable proportioning valve when you upgrade to all discs. You need to go take a class in fluid dynamics. That is nothing but a female to female fitting for male end hard lines.

But hey, I'm sorry for offering information cuz I know nothing about hydraulics... but then again my 4 wheel disc brakes work with no stock prop valve but just an adjustable proportioning valve.

Have you ever known a salesperson? Which is who you prob talked to from Wilwood... they know **** about physics.

5# of constant pressure on a small piston = about 30 psi of pressure depeding on piston size and number of pistons = locked brakes.

Tony71502

On another note... the stock system has no check valve... wonder why...

IDK what they told you... but Wilwood is wrong in this situation.... and more than likely why your set-up does not work.

They keep telling you what to do and it doesn't work.....

PS. Pressure is not measured in pounds. It is measured in PSI.

Tony71502

After reviewing your post again... in an attempt to HELP you.... the description of that part is a self bleeder....WHY WOULD YOU INSTALL A BLEEDER IN YOUR LINES.... that part is designed to eliminate backflow to help bleeding a system...... It is never intended to be a part of the braking system!

TrimDrip

I got a buddy with a 240 that had the same issue with his willwood brakes. I can't remember what he did but, I will ask if I see him.

Anyways, I would do like adder said and start bleeding at the master then work my way to the calipers until I found the problem If I couldn't get them to bleed.