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Help me identify my MAF

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Old 03-31-2012, 10:26 PM
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wydopnthrtl
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Default Help me identify my MAF

Hey guys, I got a deal on a C&L 73mm MAF w/filter and Red injectors.

Previous owner put 25k miles on these parts and says they are 30lb injectors.

I have several basic questions..

1) Are these injectors really 30lbs and what is a reasonable way to clean them? (All the injectors measure 14.4 to 14.6 ohms )

2) Is this 73mm body truly calibrated for 30lb injectors? Meaning can I just plug and play with a stock ECU? (the MAF sensor has the same part number as my stock 1989 one. E9ZF-12B579-AA AFH55-03)

3) What is the small threaded rod for? (it has a roll pin pressed in the top which hits the MAF housing so it can't turn. It's a little loose and pokes through & into the wires air flow tube. (shade tree tuning?))

4) What power level is this good up to?

NOTE: I don't have tuning software yet so I can't tweak the MAF transfer function. I'll have my wideband installed before swapping these parts.








Thanks for the replies in advance!

Last edited by wydopnthrtl; 03-31-2012 at 10:31 PM.
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:40 PM
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motorman524
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1. Yes, they're 30lb injectors. Just Google " how to clean fuel injectors"
2. C&L mass air housings are junk. They use a flow tube to "calibrate" the mass air sensor. That is the reason you have a stock mass air on top.
3. That rod is there because Billy Bob lost the screw that really goes there.
4. Ditch the C&L. The fuel injectors are usually rated to about 430ish at the most N/A.
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:46 PM
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wydopnthrtl
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Are they junk because people don't normally change the MAF transfer function?

What was the screw for that Billy bob lost?
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:57 PM
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motorman524
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Most everyone, including me has had problems with them if they don't stay near a stock setup. That hole that the rod is in should have a screw there to hold the sample tube in.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:04 PM
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wydopnthrtl
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OK thanks.

I don't like how close to the entrance of the tube the wires are. They ought to have made the tube & MAF position as close to OEM as is possible. Then tweaked the end diameter to get the A/F in line with the stock MAFTF.

btw, What tuning software do you use? I've only ever used SCT pro-racer for OBD2. Not sure what I should be looking at for this old stang. (I like to spray a dry shot and feed the fuel via larger injectors / pump)
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:12 PM
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motorman524
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I haven't used my tuning software yet because my project took a bad turn. So I've put it on the back burner for now. I have a MTX-L wideband and Moates Quarterhorse sitting in boxes though. My software is Binary Editor 2010 on my Netbook.
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Old 04-01-2012, 06:45 AM
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projectresto83
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If you want to get rid of the Meter I might want to take it off your hands...PM me your price please

Alot of people on the net do say C&L is junk but I know people who swear by them and have never had an issue with them.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:05 AM
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mjr46
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c and l meters often need to be clocked to be optimal
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:24 PM
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projectresto83
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Originally Posted by mjr46
c and l meters often need to be clocked to be optimal

yes, yes they do. That trick also works with stock meters as well
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:11 AM
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GTnotchback
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Originally Posted by mjr46
c and l meters often need to be clocked to be optimal
HOW? can you elaborate?
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