StalkerGT

Can not running a belt tensioner make everything else not work like it should? Read somewhere that it may affect the water pump...my car runs a little warm and wasn't sure if that could be part of the issue

mustangGT86_05

Well I'm wondering how you expect to get the belt on without one. And why would you want it removed? Its drag on the engine is very minimal

lukehayter

I have a hard enough time getting a belt on WITH a tensioner. Goodness.

Tony71502

Use a pry bar between the tensioner pulley and where it bolts to the block. It is very very easy.

StalkerGT

When I bought the car all of the a/c components had been removed...they didnt put an a/c eliminator on the car...the belt tensioner was taken off and a shorter belt was put on...taking one of the bolts off the alternator allies it to move to get a belt on...I need to get an eliminator bracket so I can put the tensioner back on....it was really hacked together when I got the car! Lol

Tony71502

The a/c eliminator bracket merely moves the power steering pump up to where the a/c used to be. It has no connection to the belt tensioner. The a/c bracket bolts to the water pump housing.

nitrous_bob

the "good" one does...lol

thats the only one i'll use....no idler pullies...those are garbage

yeah like stated...get the motorsport kit which is just the brackets to make the car like a factory NON ac car

and get a tensioner on it as well.

if you have smog delete and ac delete, with no UD pullies you need a 73" belt or gates ko60730

notice those numbers ? the 60 means 6 rib and the 730 means 73 inches

735 would be 73 1/2"

if you have UD's you need an inch shorter so a 72"

StalkerGT

Thanks for all the help! I'm gonna pick up an eliminator and put the tensioner back on

mustangGT86_05

That's good, the issue is if you manage to get a belt on, it will probably be too tight and wear on your bearings, then it'll loosen up and start slipping

wydopnthrtl

I used to be a FEAD engineer. (front end accessory drive)

Running w/o a tensioner and a standard off the shelf belt is not a good idea. In order to make it work you'll be having a belt that may stretch and relax at hot temps causing slipping or one that's too tight and will put excessive load on the accessories..wearing their bearings out prematurely.

When the AC compressor starts, the clutch doesn't slip much at all. This causes the highest load on the FEAD and is what the OEM tensioner is speced for. If you have removed the AC you can generally run a lower tension by drilling a new hole in the mounting bracket and/or running a smaller pulley.

Its not a big power consumer but a little TQ can be freed up by reducing the belt tension.

Here is a picture of my set up. Since this pic was taken I've put on underdrives a new smaller idler pulley. The stop tang is now riding in the middle of the swing and the belt spacing is about the same.