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1999-2004 5.0 swap

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Old 07-16-2012, 10:47 AM
  #21  
uberstang1
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Sell v6, buy cheap gt anywhere from 94-04, buy cheap supercharged used for 2k dollars. Viola 400 horsepower. Or u can continue to sink thousands in swapping in an expensive high compression or stroker motor, carb setup, and everything else u need for 6x the price. Or sink in a few grand dropping in a fairl stock 5.0 for a whipping 200-230 horsepower.
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Old 07-16-2012, 11:39 AM
  #22  
school boy
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why dont he do like this other v6 guys and drop on a eaton? right at 300rwhp
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Old 07-16-2012, 11:47 AM
  #23  
wolverine8490
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Originally Posted by joshb
haha i dont go to school anymore and would the reason im goin with this is because a 4.6 swap would cost alot and to build it up would cost more
Originally Posted by joshb
i dont get y this guys throw all the money in the motor and everything to back it up but still dont hook if i had the money id just back half a car instead of doin a 360 in the middle of the road
Holy ****, did you graduate???
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:21 PM
  #24  
joshb
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yeah? and i dont want to be the same i want to stand out no one really runs carbed pushrods in there mustang
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:25 PM
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joshb
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Fuel System: You will need a new fuel pump and pickup. Do NOT use the existing EFI pump. You can either use an electric low pressure pump designed for a carb (like the Holley red or blue pumps) or go with a mechanical fuel pump. In either case you must replace the fuel pickup on top of the gas tank with a purpose built pickup that does not include an in-tank pump. The Mustang Performance Handbook Vol. 1 includes plans to build your own pickup if you decide not to shell out the $100 that it takes to buy an aftermarket one. If you have a drag car it may be time to upgrade to a fuel cell or modify your existing tank for a bottom sump. At this time I also recommend you go with new fuel line from the tank to the carb. Use 3/8" minimum or larger based on your needs. Remember that many sanctioned race tracks will only allow up to 12" of rubber fuel line so go with aluminum wherever possible, and keep the lines in-between the frame rails for safety. To use a mechanical fuel pump you must change the front timing cover on the engine to one that accepts a bolt-on fuel pump. You may also need a fuel pump eccentric to drive the pump.


can some one tell me what this means
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:36 PM
  #26  
uberstang1
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Originally Posted by joshb
Fuel System: You will need a new fuel pump and pickup. Do NOT use the existing EFI pump. You can either use an electric low pressure pump designed for a carb (like the Holley red or blue pumps) or go with a mechanical fuel pump. In either case you must replace the fuel pickup on top of the gas tank with a purpose built pickup that does not include an in-tank pump. The Mustang Performance Handbook Vol. 1 includes plans to build your own pickup if you decide not to shell out the $100 that it takes to buy an aftermarket one. If you have a drag car it may be time to upgrade to a fuel cell or modify your existing tank for a bottom sump. At this time I also recommend you go with new fuel line from the tank to the carb. Use 3/8" minimum or larger based on your needs. Remember that many sanctioned race tracks will only allow up to 12" of rubber fuel line so go with aluminum wherever possible, and keep the lines in-between the frame rails for safety. To use a mechanical fuel pump you must change the front timing cover on the engine to one that accepts a bolt-on fuel pump. You may also need a fuel pump eccentric to drive the pump.


can some one tell me what this means
It means you need a fuel system, as we already covered. Either a Cell or modified tank with a sump or custom pickup tube so u can run an external pump, a fuel line then goes from the pump to a regulator and then to the carb.
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:46 PM
  #27  
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so i need a presure regulator a pick up and lines and thats it
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:01 PM
  #28  
uberstang1
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Originally Posted by joshb
so i need a presure regulator a pick up and lines and thats it
A pickup or modified tank, a fuel pump, lines, regulator, filter assembly, and carb. A complete fuel system..........for the 100th time. If you don't know what components make up a fuel system its clear you are WAY over your head performing any kind of motor swap even one this easy. Also to put things in perspective those items just soaked up about half of your $1100 dollar budget, and if you plan on running AN lines,hose ends, and fittings.......well your budget is getting soaked up a bit moer than than yet.

Last edited by uberstang1; 07-16-2012 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:13 PM
  #29  
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The paragraph you posted means you need either an electric in-line fuel pump to get the gas moving. Or it suggests you go old school and find the parts to a mechanical fuel pump. The first picture is an in-line pump (on some generic car, not the best spot for it IMO). The second is of a mechanical pump that would bolt to the block.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0007_large.jpg

http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/SK..._fuel_pump.jpg

I know some states will not pass you on safety inspection if you have more more than 12" of rubber in your fuel line system, so keep that in mind as well. And uberstang1 is right that a proper fuel system eats up money very quickly.
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:18 PM
  #30  
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i have about a 2300 budget i said i was going to put 1100 on a 5.0 build after its swaped

and i dont really kno fuel systems bc i havent ripped one apart

and which i better mechanical or eletcrical
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