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Motor Vibration and stumbling

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Old 11-21-2012, 07:49 PM
  #11  
Bubba 95SN
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Did you do all three of cylinder balance tests?
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:09 AM
  #12  
oatburner99
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Originally Posted by Bubba 95SN
Did you do all three of cylinder balance tests?
yes I did
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Old 11-24-2012, 01:59 PM
  #13  
projectresto83
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So have you traced down the TPS issue yet??
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:24 AM
  #14  
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another update:

Well picked up another TPS, and it's not the problem. The voltage reference pin in the white 10 pin connector is backed out, and everytime I pull the connector's apart, and re-set the pins, when I reconnect the connector's back together it pushes it back out again. Once I figure that problem out, I'm hoping that I can get the TPS straightened out with reference voltage, and hopefully not have any more problems. Hoping to pick up a new harmonic balancer on Thursday.
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Old 11-26-2012, 07:36 PM
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updated the first post....any idea's?
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:50 AM
  #16  
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Well I found the smoking gun last night. Pinned out the voltage reference (coming from the PCM) all the way to the top end of the white salt shaker connector. Continuity check was good, and voltage was good. Shook and twisted the wire harness all over the place, still held 5.00 volts. So I hooked the bottom (engine harness side) of the salt shaker connector, and had the shaker out of it's holder (that is attached to the intake to keep them retained and keep them from flopping around) Checked voltage, still a good 5 volts....SWEET.....as soon as I snapped the shaker's back into their retaining holder, I lost my voltage. Ended up pulling the voltage reference pin out of the connector, and found low and behold that the metal section of the pin had a break in it...Nothing that you could visually see, but every time that I would attempt to bend the pin, I would loose continuity and voltage. So I had my spare set of salt and pepper shaker extensions, and depinned the brown and white wire, cut the old one off, soldered the new pin on the harness and shrink wrapped. Put everything back together, checked voltage and BAM! FIXED. Ran KOEO codes, passed with 11, other than the 31 (EGR) no other codes. Started the car, got to operating temp, ran KOER, had code 94 and 44 (Thermactor fail both L/H and R/H) but no other codes. Did a TPS voltage test, also a closed, 1/2, and WOT voltage check....all checked great. Car runs, idles smoothly....The remaining codes I have are due to the vacuum in the passenger side being removed, so I'm going to hook all that back up, and make sure those codes are dealt with. Only other thing I have is the vibration.....at certain RPMS it will vibrate, which again I've got a 22 y/o harmonic balancer with 150,000 miles on it, it's done and needs to be replaced. So hopefully today I'll pick up a new one get it installed and see if that fixes the vibration issue. .Thank you all for your input, I really appreciate it. I learned a lot from this problem, Most people will throw parts at their car, and not do proper diagnosis, this was a BIG learning experience. Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:11 PM
  #17  
projectresto83
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Sweetness!!! Good job!
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Old 12-01-2012, 10:40 PM
  #18  
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UPDATE: Well I changed out the harmonic balancer. Didn't make a bit of difference. I ended up putting all the vacuum emissions crap back on, got rid of all the codes except 94 and 44. Got the TPS re-set and the base idle reset. Did 3 cylinder balance tests, all checked good with a 90. Did a compression check today andl compression check came back good....and then I found out what is causing the vibration...or I should say found where it's coming from....I started the car up, and wanted to see if it vibrated when I pushed the clutch in, and it did...So it vibrates with the clutch in or out...so I jacked the car up, and crawled under inbetween those nice hot longtubes, and low and behold heard one pissed off gnome with a ball peen hammer (not really) rattling around...put my hand on the bell housing and YUP...sure enough....something's broken in them thar parts. Sooooo now I've got to pull the tranny, then the bell housing (thanks to the longtubes) and see what I see. I did the clutch about a year ago...car hasn't been beat on, but apparently the "LRS Mongoose" clutch doesn't like my car....so yeah....on the bright side, I'd rather be pulling a tranny than a motor.
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:05 AM
  #19  
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longtubes are a biatch..... lol
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Old 12-02-2012, 08:33 PM
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Well...the beginnings of the transmission having to come out I have a little gnome with a ballpeen hammer running around in the bell housing...could be worse...could be the motor that has to come out...

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