robotnix

hi guys,

I want to build myself a plan so this way I won't buy parts and then later on end up replacing them a second time.

note: by no means I'm a mechanic or close to being one I just learn by reading you guys being the pros

no supercharger, no turbo

bbk CAI
bbk MAF sensor for 70mm TB and 24lb injectors
bbk fuel rail??? any gains? it sure looks nice.
BBK Electric Fuel Pump Kit - 190 LPH
bbk 70mm TB and spacer
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bbk short header
bbk catted h pipes
flowmaster American thunder
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3.73 gears + 5 bolt patern conversion
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subframe connectors,
strut and shock tower brace
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now for the real part,
engine, (not looking for something insane just want to be around 300hp to the wheels)

correct me here please,
basically this from latemodelrestoration.com
what do you think?


just doing a copy paste from latemodelrestoration web site.

Product Description
Trick Flow Top-End engine kits provide dyno-proven power without the guesswork. Up to 360hp/350tq with this kit.

Kit Contents:
TFS-51400004 Twisted Wedge Cylinder Heads, pair
TFS-51511002 5.0L Track Heat Intake Manifold, black set
TFS-51402000 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft, each
TFS-51400510 Roller Rocker Arms, set of 16
TFS-21406700 Pushrods, set of 16
SUM-G6620 Roller Timing Chain Set, each
TFS-51400904 Gasket Kit, each
TFS-51411801 Black Valve Covers, pair
TFS-51400800 Billet oil fill kit

NOTE: Kits were dyno-tested on a 306 cubic inch engine with 9.5:1 compression, a 70mm throttle body, 24lb injectors, 190 lph fuel pump, mass air, and 10° base timing.


this makes any sense at all?
what about the stock manual transmission?

will this be drivable on the streets? it has to be!! I love HP and torque and deep sound want something sexy but that can very well be used in streets as perhaps the week-end car.

plan is to keep this another 20 years for my sons.
this is going to be for me a 5 years give or take project. I'm not at all in a hurry.

I thank you in advance!!

88 orangepeel notch

I'd say that a kit is the way to go from the start. It's all been thought out and should work very well together. The rest of your plan looks good also. You've done your homework.

And it'll be completely streetable with a good tune, and adequate cooling. And 300 at the wheels makes for a fun street car. I'm very happy with mine, sure more is always better, but there's always a cost too.

Maxwelhse

I see lots of BBK in that list and I've never really seen much of their stuff that was worth the money. No reason at all to upgrade your rails at this point. I wouldn't worry about the "calibrated" MAF housing either if you're going to have it properly tuned (that's going to gain you a lot more than a "calibrated" housing or a chip). Get an SN 95 MAF housing (which if memory serves is 70mm vs 55mm for your stock housing) from the junkyard and drop your stock sensor right in it. Any SN-95 will do, V6 or V8 (I believe even the 4.6 cars but I'm not certain). You'll need an adapter plate that's like $10 on ebay. I feel pretty much the same about CAI at that power level. Remove the stock air box silencer in the fender and be done. Bigger throttle body is a good idea, dealer's choice on manufacturer. I've been sniffing around the Accufab unit.

Skip the BBK fuel pump kit and just buy a Walbro 255LPH pump. It's pretty much the "go to" pump and is cheaper and larger. For 24lb injectors you probably won't need to step your pump up anyhow (that's the stock Cobra size). An adjustable fuel regular would be a good idea (Kirban being the best that I know of) but probably isn't required either. A temporary fuel pressure gauge that you can run out of the cowl up the the windshield will tell you the story for about $30. A $50 dyno pull will confirm the data with air/fuel numbers. Of course if you're going to have it tuned the adjustable regulator will come in EXTRA handy.

In terms of exhaust, I don't buy it unless its stainless or the car is going away in a few years. The basic BBK Fox shorty headers are no different in design (on the surface) than $140 stainless Ebay headers. I have the same no-name SS (hard to tell if they're the same manufacturer) headers on my car and they've been fine for 7 years now (I did install Percy's gaskets which I would recommend to ANYONE). Inexpensive Pypes SS X/H pipe is also just fine. I wouldn't buy the Pypes tail pipes though as they fit for crap.

Engine package looks good. Hard to go wrong with TFS.

What I don't see much of is suspension. Subframes and braces are a good start but not nearly enough, especially with gears, if you're planning to actually be able to put much power down to the ground. The stock lower control arms are junk (uppers aren't much better) and the springs aren't worth much more than driving your mom to church.

What I see NONE of it brakes. 5 lug swap time is a good time to look at SN-95 brakes or even a Cobra setup. Fox brakes are the worst ever. The internet is LOADED with assorted brake upgrades and swap guides for Foxes. Pick your flavor based on your goals and budget. Just about anything is an upgrade.

Some bumps in the road aside, that's pretty much the path I've chosen with my car. It's still making pretty much stock power but the groundwork has been laid, the parts are all durable, and I didn't break my wallet to get there.

robotnix

thank you guys, very much appreciate all inputs.
clearly my build list is not complete and there is room for change.
right now I just want to put a BUILD LIST together and once I start I will not deviate from it.

- added brake upgrade and probably larger brakes (more power so larger brakes)
- new better water pump and mishimoto radiator
- 7 pintes oil pan?? (I have to change my oil pan gasket might as well go with a new pan and pump... 5pintes or 7pintes???)

if my car has been dropped with a suspension upgrade by 1.5inches or so will the 7 pintes oil pan be close to hitting the ground?

65Raven65

For what it's worth, look into upgrading to an Accuab throttle body.

Not that I know from experience, but when I was looking at opinions about BBK, the reviews and opinions were hit and miss, whereas most people tended to suggest spend a little more and get the Accufab. I read reports of BBK stuff sticking from right out of the box. My problem was a sticking throttle body, so the last thing I wanted to do was to be in the same predicament with a brand new part I just paid a bunch of money for.

Good luck, sounds fun!

Maxwelhse

Don't get too hung up on an absolute build list until parts start hitting your door step. New and better stuff comes out all the time. Just make sure what you buy is of quality and you'll be fine.

So.. If you want to revise the entire car you need to start thinking about GOALS and not parts. Do you want to SCCA race? Drag race? Cruise? Be the big swinging sausage at dyno day? The parts for each of those goals can be different. This is especially true for suspension and chassis.

Personally, I'd like more or less all of the above (could care less about dyno power though) while keeping it a comfortable street car that anyone could drive. For me that means AC, factory-ish gauges, cruise, etc. I'm also not made of money so I have a challenge ahead of me.

PS, if you want bigger brakes you're going to need bigger wheels too depending on WHAT 5 lug wheels you buy the first time. Also 1.5" of drop is too much on the street with a Fox, IMHO. Being that low might not even suit your needs depending on what you want to do.

65Raven65

Here's a good quick overview of 5 lug conversion procedures.

Latemodel Resto has all kinds of good tech videos.

Link:

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...n-Installation