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Hello all, I just purchased a 302 for my 86 lx. Besides some surface rust it looks good. Upon further inspection it seems to be a 87 f150 block. Code is E7TE. So will this wotk. If so what needs to be changed? I plan on sending it to the machine shop after I get it torn down. Regardless of what they say I'm not hurting for it. I got it for $25 lol. So either I have a paper weight or a decent candidate. Thanks for any advice.
PS. Plan for the motor is a GT40 set up all port matched Anderson n41 cam, convert to MAF and 4.10's.
How To Convert E7TE
1st digit= decade
D=1970-79 E=1980-89 F=1990-99 E= 80's
2nd digit= year of decade 7= 87
3rd digit= car line
S= Tbird T= Truck Z= Mustang T= truck
4th digit= engineering group
A= chassis B= body E= engine E= engine group
The E7TE block is technically a truck block,but it's also the block that came in all of the 87-93 5.0 Mustangs.The E6 block was the one that came in all of the 86 5.0 Mustangs.The 86 blocks had forged flat top pistons w/o valve reliefs and the 87-92 blocks had forged flat top pistons w/ valve reliefs.The 93 blocks were the same as the 87-92 blocks,except the 93 had hypereutectic pistons vs forged.
If you were planning to install the shortblock like it currently sits (IOW-not doing anything at all to the block and it's internals other than replacing the cam) then add a top end kit to it,you got the better end of the deal,with the 87+ block.The 86 block would've required you to flycut the pistons or replace the pistons or leave the stock cam in place,due to ptv clearance issues.Since you got the 87+ block,you can add a cam,heads,etc with alot less worry.PTV clearance will still need to be checked,but its much better with the E7 block.If you were planning on replacing the pistons regardless of which year block you have,it would not have mattered which block you have,
since the primary issue with the 86 block was the pistons.If you're gonna rebuild the shortblock before installing
it,I would bore it .030 over and run forged flat top pistons w/ valve reliefs,with whatever brand/type/spec pistons you need to get your clearance & compression where you want it.If you're wanting a little more power out of it,you could go the stroker route instead,but thats gonna add additional expense for the stroker kit,rod bolt block clearancing,upgraded fuel parts,
etc.If you wanna stick with just a simple rebuild,Summit Racing sells a pretty complete rebuild kit with .030 over forged pistons & everything else shown in the picture below for $537. Kits are also available with hyper pistons,for even less,if you don't need forged.
The following link will bring you to the engine rebuild kit section at Summit Racing.
How To Convert E7TE
1st digit= decade
D=1970-79 E=1980-89 F=1990-99 E= 80's
2nd digit= year of decade 7= 87
3rd digit= car line
S= Tbird T= Truck Z= Mustang T= truck
4th digit= engineering group
A= chassis B= body E= engine E= engine group
The E7TE block is technically a truck block,but it's also the block that came in all of the 87-93 5.0 Mustangs.The E6 block was the one that came in all of the 86 5.0 Mustangs.The 86 blocks had forged flat top pistons w/o valve reliefs and the 87-92 blocks had forged flat top pistons w/ valve reliefs.The 93 blocks were the same as the 87-92 blocks,except the 93 had hypereutectic pistons vs forged.
If you were planning to install the shortblock like it currently sits (IOW-not doing anything at all to the block and it's internals other than replacing the cam) then add a top end kit to it,you got the better end of the deal,with the 87+ block.The 86 block would've required you to flycut the pistons or replace the pistons or leave the stock cam in place,due to ptv clearance issues.Since you got the 87+ block,you can add a cam,heads,etc with alot less worry.PTV clearance will still need to be checked,but its much better with the E7 block.If you were planning on replacing the pistons regardless of which year block you have,it would not have mattered which block you have,
since the primary issue with the 86 block was the pistons.If you're gonna rebuild the shortblock before installing
it,I would bore it .030 over and run forged flat top pistons w/ valve reliefs,with whatever brand/type/spec pistons you need to get your clearance & compression where you want it.If you're wanting a little more power out of it,you could go the stroker route instead,but thats gonna add additional expense for the stroker kit,rod bolt block clearancing,upgraded fuel parts,
etc.If you wanna stick with just a simple rebuild,Summit Racing sells a pretty complete rebuild kit with .030 over forged pistons & everything else shown in the picture below for $537. Kits are also available with hyper pistons,for even less,if you don't need forged.
The following link will bring you to the engine rebuild kit section at Summit Racing.
Thanks for the input! Yeah I gathered that much after researching. Problem I'm facing now is a piston is stuck. I'll have to give it some loving lol. It will most likely need bored anyway. Just gotta send it to the machine shop when I can.
08-26-2018, 08:08 PM
New engine
