Tri-Ax kind of Mini-Review
#1
Tri-Ax kind of Mini-Review
Mini-Review means I was too excited to get it installed that I didn't take any pics, sorry. Went in very easily. You do have to get under the car to loosen two nuts, no big deal. Took about 30 minutes taking my time. It's a work of art, to bad you'll never see it again underneath everything.
I did re-install the rubber boot correctly and can hear a little noise from the trans. On a scale of 1-10 regarding the noise issue, I would say its gone up only to about a 1. Thats with one being the least amount. I have Flows on my car, so I suspect you'll hear a little more with stock mufflers.
The shifting feels great. It is very firm and positive. 20% reduction in throws is accurate. I dont think you could break this thing if you tried. It makes shifting feel much more confident, like it wants to be man handled. I usually skip shift on my own (1-3-5 or 2-4) but now it feels great going through all gears. My main concern was normal daily driving and I didn't want something that would impede my experience. It is definately more pleasurable now. I was also concerned about notchiness going in to gears, specificaly 2nd (i have skip-shift disabled). The greater force you apply when shifting seems to over come this feeling. I will still encounter a little resistance on those 1-2 shifts occassionaly like I did with the stock unit, but thats the trans., not the shifter. The shifter seems to help out though.
It is adjustable for the reverse lockout spring pressure, but I didn't mess with it. As it comes, it takes much more downward force to disengage the reverse lock-out. I would consider this a plus for those worried about engaging reverse instead of first, though I never had that problem.
The only problem I encountered was when reinstalling my shifter ****. I have the 401A **** with the new boot with the silver ring. I couldn't clock my shifter **** correctly. I discovered that on the inside/bottom of the silver ring on the shifter boot there are two small plastic nubs that fit into two holes that are on top of the stock shifter. These vertical holes are at 3 and 9 o'clock on the stock shifter lever where is goes from the fat part to the skinny part where the threads for the **** are. (I know pics would help) These holes are not present on the Steeda shifter. I don't know if this would be a problem on the base **** and boot. The fix was easy though. I just filed these little nubs a little until tightening of the **** resulted in the shift pattern on the **** oriented itself correctly.
This is my first Steeda shifter, but I've had Hursts in the past. I was looking for that great feel my Hurst gave me before and this unit delivers that. Sorry Hurst, thats what you get for not being first to the market. I really don't know what Hurst could do to improve on this design, but I'm curious to see what they and MGW come out with. Even if Hurst would have come out first, I wanted to use my 401A **** since I just recently dropped almost $150 for it and the boot.
I did re-install the rubber boot correctly and can hear a little noise from the trans. On a scale of 1-10 regarding the noise issue, I would say its gone up only to about a 1. Thats with one being the least amount. I have Flows on my car, so I suspect you'll hear a little more with stock mufflers.
The shifting feels great. It is very firm and positive. 20% reduction in throws is accurate. I dont think you could break this thing if you tried. It makes shifting feel much more confident, like it wants to be man handled. I usually skip shift on my own (1-3-5 or 2-4) but now it feels great going through all gears. My main concern was normal daily driving and I didn't want something that would impede my experience. It is definately more pleasurable now. I was also concerned about notchiness going in to gears, specificaly 2nd (i have skip-shift disabled). The greater force you apply when shifting seems to over come this feeling. I will still encounter a little resistance on those 1-2 shifts occassionaly like I did with the stock unit, but thats the trans., not the shifter. The shifter seems to help out though.
It is adjustable for the reverse lockout spring pressure, but I didn't mess with it. As it comes, it takes much more downward force to disengage the reverse lock-out. I would consider this a plus for those worried about engaging reverse instead of first, though I never had that problem.
The only problem I encountered was when reinstalling my shifter ****. I have the 401A **** with the new boot with the silver ring. I couldn't clock my shifter **** correctly. I discovered that on the inside/bottom of the silver ring on the shifter boot there are two small plastic nubs that fit into two holes that are on top of the stock shifter. These vertical holes are at 3 and 9 o'clock on the stock shifter lever where is goes from the fat part to the skinny part where the threads for the **** are. (I know pics would help) These holes are not present on the Steeda shifter. I don't know if this would be a problem on the base **** and boot. The fix was easy though. I just filed these little nubs a little until tightening of the **** resulted in the shift pattern on the **** oriented itself correctly.
This is my first Steeda shifter, but I've had Hursts in the past. I was looking for that great feel my Hurst gave me before and this unit delivers that. Sorry Hurst, thats what you get for not being first to the market. I really don't know what Hurst could do to improve on this design, but I'm curious to see what they and MGW come out with. Even if Hurst would have come out first, I wanted to use my 401A **** since I just recently dropped almost $150 for it and the boot.
#4
Fantastic product. I'm a Steeda Fan and run the Tri-Ax on my car as well. The tranny harshness on cold days is exacerbated by the Tri-Ax, but I expect that. For a short throw, it's still very streetable. My beast is a daily driver and I can't imagine not having the shifter. I'll look into the Hurst when it's ready, if only for the billet extension.
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