lawman1

Have put about 5000 miles on the motor and a track day at Willow Springs in 102 degree heat. The NA build is stout. The Boss Racing Hood helped as did the Boss Oil Cooler and Oil Pan. While all the supercharged cars were belching up fluid and overheating My car was stout and I outperforming them on the track as well. Although the driver could have used some work.

Have an acquaintance with a paxton on his 5.0 but it overheats very quickly. he had to relocate his overflow tank and change it to aluminum because the stock one melted. He is also experiencing tune and driveability issues. Those were being ironed out when His mechanic got broadsided while test driving the vehicle. Good example how one thing leads to another. he does make North of 600RWHP though. BTW he can't hook up either. Know Another guy with an Edelbrock that is making way less power than my naturally aspirated build.

My internals are forged. The engine is bullet proof and I believe it is opening up and is faster now. I believe MMR can get you a forged short block for a very reasonable price. Cams and porting you can get for $2500 combined. Altogether I believe, you can do a bulletproof problem free N/A build for $1500 to $2000 more than a supercharger and have a more reliable car.

In addition, The advantage of having the entire rev range to work with cannot be overstated. Changing gears at 7500 rpm is hard to beat. the rev range lets you take advantage of gearing. Gear shifts at high rpms makes the mustang leap. Also accelerating out of corners while maintaining a rev range between 5000-6000 puts me right at my torque peak while coming out of a corner leading to a quick and propulsive next upshift.

As for sound and street driveability? Great on the street. Almost stock driveability. I say almost because every time you change gears there is a palpable sense that you are holding back 614 brake horsepower. Reliable. I have not thrown one code or had one problem with the engine or drivetrain since I built it. This car has been driven hard at the track and had had some 12 wide open dyno pulls.

This car is very fast. No one who goes down my road will be the least bit disappointed in the performance. And adding cams and an intake will not give you a "few extra horse" It will be somewhere between 50-70 extra horses. I and others have more or less proved that.

UofHmustang

I like it, but I was referring to a stock engine such as mine. I thought the engine in question was factory. I just wouldn't be comfortable running my stock block that high. I don't even shift close to the red line now.

Mishri

you dont look hard then.

http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...der-Heads.html

livernoise heads $1300 (price went up 100? this is ofcourse with your heads supplied)

http://store.jpcracing.com/COYOTE-RG...ds_p_1294.html

or JPC $2,000


http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/....0L-Camshafts/

http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustan...rain-2011.html

cams, $300 to $1500

http://www.americanmuscle.com/2010-mustang-headers.html

headers, $550, to $900, (x pipes to fit are 50-150)

I have no idea where you are seeing 2,000 exhaust, that sounds like a rip-off, the rest of your prices aren't too far off other than the Cams which are the most expensive ones offered.

in any case, on the budget build around $2,000 is possible.

clowe1965

I believe he is talking about a full exhaust set up. Anything other than bbk headers will put the headers up to 1300-1400, and cat back exhaust (bolt on) is a minimum of 500. You can't even get axlebacks for less than 300 brand new anymore unless its a sale. It can be done for less than 2k, but not by much. Wish it was true, its now cheaper for me to build an old 302 block than put bolt ons for the new cars.