MoshpitMad

I purchased my Boss intake manifold, Steeda CAI and Steeda SCT tune with 91 and 87 octane maps. I installed them on Sunday. Everything was straight forward, and all the parts seem sturdy. I did have to take the dremel to my CAI to get the metal tube that holds the maf to slide through the box.

Car screamed! I was thoroughly impressed. So much power from stock to adding all 3 of these at the same time.

Today, I drove about 40 miles. Averaged 23.3mpg. Wasn't on it at all today. As I pull into my neighborhood...check engine light! I was shocked. Use the SCT to pull the codes. Lean Bank 1 and 2. Send Brandon a PM, and then decide to give him a call. After he consults with his tuner specialist, they want me to do some data logging for them. He sends out an email with all the parameters they want logged. Not a short list. Let me also preface this with a little information. This is my first Mustang. These are my first power mods. I've waited quite a while and read quite a bit before deciding to pull the trigger on Steeda and their product line. Their stellar reputation is what swung me. The only reason I and some friends did this install is because they told me it would be easy. This isn't something I could do on my own, and feel comfortable that it'd all be correct.

I haven't a clue how to data log, and no idea where to begin.

I took the car to a local custom shop that specializes in domestics, and has a great reputation. They told me that all the "custom tunes" customers come in with, are not correct for our altitude. I live at 6700 ft above sea level. I drive up at around 10,000 several times a month. Steeda's website referred to the testing they do on all their cars up to 14,000 ft(another selling point). I imagine this was done at Pikes Peak, in my backyard. This helped me feel more comfortable with my decision.

It was after hours, and their "Mustang specialist" had already gone home for the day, Steeda was closed, and the owner convinced me that a custom dyno tune is the best solution to the problem, and they could take care of me. Their guy would call first thing in the morning.

I'm sorry for being all over the place on this. My mind is swirling with the thoughts of a blown engine, and the fears concerning the possibility of it.

I'll update this when I talk with the local shop tomorrow.

Overall, Brandon has been very communicative, and attempted to be helpful. I'm surprised their isn't a solution other than me data logging. That's where my disappointment lies.

I'm also wondering why I would get a lean code at altitude, if anything you'd think the car would be pig rich with the lack of oxygen up here.

MoshpitMad

Now, I'm looking at my photo...and comparing it to SSKiller5.0's picture and wondering if my maf position could be the cause. Would the location of the maf be important?

Mine(located on the bottom):


His(located on the side):

CubanoGT

Mine is on the side also.. But I got a JLT intake. just put it in the side see what happens

grabber blue gt

LOL dude put the MAF on right and see how it runs. I bet it runs fine after. All the electronics on these cars are so damn sensitive that anything will throw a code if its not close to OEM. Just like when you put high flow cats on and it throws a CEL.

Flip the MAF on the way its supposed to be and try it again. I personally wouldnt trust this "mustang specialist" to tune my car. They have probably never tuned a 5.0 and ABSOLUTELY DO NOT have the reputation steeda does. Tuning these new 5.0's isnt as simple as adding spark and timing anymore and adjusting for added airflow. Its a lot more involved now and I would trust steeda a ton more than a local shop

MoshpitMad

I definitely will relocate the maf, but these guys have a turbo 5.0 in their shop, and several in house 1000whp builds.

MoshpitMad

OK, at 530am, I went out and relocated the maf sensor so it points toward the headlight. Cleared the codes. We'll see how today goes.

Thanks for the tips guys.

SSKILLER5.0

Good pickup on that picture. And yes the positioning of the MAF sensor is important..I've studied your picture and don't see anything wrong with it other than the placement of that sensor. And I agree with grabber blue don't let someone else start tinkering with the tune on that car. Stick with steeda my man it will all get worked out. These problems aren't uncommon at all.

SteedaGus

Hi guys, thanks for the endorsements.

I did want to comment on the MAF however. We position the housing where the MAF electronics bolt on to on the Boss specific intake in a different location than on the 5.0L GT.

On the 5.0L the MAF electronics will end up positioned on the side, on the BOSS specific cold air the electronics end up protruding beneath the MAF housing.

It can be turned but we cut out the velocity stack on the inside for clearance with the shield gasket trim so if you turn it then you will have trouble getting the top trim on correctly. On the BOSS setup the velocity stack is part of the MAF housing, not separate like in our other kits.

MoshpitMad

12 miles on the way to work, and no cel's. Think this was it. I'm gonna get the car dyno'd to check afr ratios to be sure. Thanks again guys.

SteedaGus

Keep us posted but in my opinion that should not have fixed it. The new digital MAF's in these cars are very good and the position of the mass air around the tube is not as critical in this particular application since where the electronics ends up in the airstream they see good, turbulence free airflow thanks to the velocity stack.