New with a few Q's
05-15-2012, 04:55 PM
#31
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: California
Posts: 390
I changed the oil in my 2012 the first time at 1500 miles. You still got the break in oil running through the motor and I've heard you don't want to change it so soon so I waited till 1500. I changed the oil again at 3,000 miles and then I run anywhere between 4,000-5,000 miles between oil changes now. I would invest in a JLT oil seperator, its a little over $100 on American Muscle (where i buy ALL my mustang parts) and it will trap the oil running back to the intake from the motor. Especially if you start to do some bolt on mods. My first 3 purchases were the axle back exhaust, a JLT CAI, and a tuner from Bama. When you buy the tuner you get the 3 free tunes (street, performance, and race) and free tunes for life. Also I wouldn't run anything lower than 93 octane either. All 3 of my tunes are set up for 93 octane.
Yep definitely getting the JLT oil separator, i was read about it in a another thread.
And the purchases you listed are exactly what is in my build list haha! The only thing is i will be heading to Cali, so only 91 octane =(
Future mods for me are:
Pypes AB
Custom 3 inch pipe cat back (Probably after i feel the AB are getting quiet)
JLT oil seperator
JLT CAI
BAMA Tuner (all 91 due to CA)
Barton Short Throw shifter
Will purchase everything except piping first. Kinda worried about the warranty thing but cant live life in fear lol
05-16-2012, 10:30 AM
#32
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Alabama
Posts: 150
The oil is a synthetic blend, its not fully synthetic. About your short throw, I was reading into it and I head that it gets a LOT of rattles. That it's really loud when driving down the road. I started to look into the hurst shifter and I think that's the way I'm going to go. It doesn't yuse the safety revers feature (having to push down to go into reverse) but after a few trips down the road you'll be able to tell the difference in 1st and reverse. That's just my 2 cents 
05-16-2012, 12:15 PM
#33
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: California
Posts: 390
The oil is a synthetic blend, its not fully synthetic. About your short throw, I was reading into it and I head that it gets a LOT of rattles. That it's really loud when driving down the road. I started to look into the hurst shifter and I think that's the way I'm going to go. It doesn't yuse the safety revers feature (having to push down to go into reverse) but after a few trips down the road you'll be able to tell the difference in 1st and reverse. That's just my 2 cents
05-16-2012, 12:49 PM
#34
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Alabama
Posts: 150
Check out some of the reviews on American Muscle. AM also used the hurst short throw on there 2012 GT Project Car blackout. If you haven't seen any of the videos on that you need to check it out. It's on their home page on the right side. www.americanmuscle.com it's pretty sweet.
05-16-2012, 03:32 PM
#35
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: California
Posts: 390
Check out some of the reviews on American Muscle. AM also used the hurst short throw on there 2012 GT Project Car blackout. If you haven't seen any of the videos on that you need to check it out. It's on their home page on the right side. www.americanmuscle.com it's pretty sweet.
05-16-2012, 09:56 PM
#36
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Alabama
Posts: 150
Yea, I almost totalled this Mustang. I hit a 1000 pound bull running about 45MPH... destroyed the front end.. $16,000 worth of damage... plus side, i got everything on the front for free... new hood, grille, front valence, and lights.. all free
05-17-2012, 10:04 AM
#38
The oil is a synthetic blend, its not fully synthetic. About your short throw, I was reading into it and I head that it gets a LOT of rattles. That it's really loud when driving down the road. I started to look into the hurst shifter and I think that's the way I'm going to go. It doesn't yuse the safety revers feature (having to push down to go into reverse) but after a few trips down the road you'll be able to tell the difference in 1st and reverse. That's just my 2 cents
The stock shifter is already shorter than the 05-10's withe the new MT82 tranny
Barton=40% reduction. Which i have heard isn't healthy for this tranny over the long run.
Hurst=25-27% reduction, no reverse lockout because hurst said they were "too close" which is very unlike hurst to somewhat cop out of integrating their shifter to oem harness. You can get the optional "reverse light" which will need to be mounted and wired inside the car somewhere...huge turnoff
Steeda=25-27% reduction. Factory lockout, best of the 3 for just the shift post
MGW=25% reduction. This is the only shifter on the market that replaces the shiftbox and maintains oem lockout. This is a complete upgrade and frankly the only way to go! The factory lockout for reverse is plastic...yes plastic! The rear u bracket on the oem shiftox is held in place by a zip tie...yes a zip tie!! The MGW replaces all of this...none of the others do! Yes it's $400, but well worth it considering what you get
www.mgwltd.com
As far as rattle, all you need is a little loc-tite during install to solve this...which is commonly overlooked.
05-17-2012, 02:28 PM
#39
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: California
Posts: 390
Looking it up now, thanks!
About the shifters...there are only 4 on the market for the 11-13 models. I have done a lot of research on these and this is what i found out.
The stock shifter is already shorter than the 05-10's withe the new MT82 tranny
Barton=40% reduction. Which i have heard isn't healthy for this tranny over the long run.
Hurst=25-27% reduction, no reverse lockout because hurst said they were "too close" which is very unlike hurst to somewhat cop out of integrating their shifter to oem harness. You can get the optional "reverse light" which will need to be mounted and wired inside the car somewhere...huge turnoff
Steeda=25-27% reduction. Factory lockout, best of the 3 for just the shift post
MGW=25% reduction. This is the only shifter on the market that replaces the shiftbox and maintains oem lockout. This is a complete upgrade and frankly the only way to go! The factory lockout for reverse is plastic...yes plastic! The rear u bracket on the oem shiftox is held in place by a zip tie...yes a zip tie!! The MGW replaces all of this...none of the others do! Yes it's $400, but well worth it considering what you get
www.mgwltd.com
As far as rattle, all you need is a little loc-tite during install to solve this...which is commonly overlooked.
The stock shifter is already shorter than the 05-10's withe the new MT82 tranny
Barton=40% reduction. Which i have heard isn't healthy for this tranny over the long run.
Hurst=25-27% reduction, no reverse lockout because hurst said they were "too close" which is very unlike hurst to somewhat cop out of integrating their shifter to oem harness. You can get the optional "reverse light" which will need to be mounted and wired inside the car somewhere...huge turnoff
Steeda=25-27% reduction. Factory lockout, best of the 3 for just the shift post
MGW=25% reduction. This is the only shifter on the market that replaces the shiftbox and maintains oem lockout. This is a complete upgrade and frankly the only way to go! The factory lockout for reverse is plastic...yes plastic! The rear u bracket on the oem shiftox is held in place by a zip tie...yes a zip tie!! The MGW replaces all of this...none of the others do! Yes it's $400, but well worth it considering what you get
www.mgwltd.com
As far as rattle, all you need is a little loc-tite during install to solve this...which is commonly overlooked.
05-17-2012, 02:33 PM
#40
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: New York
Posts: 57
About the shifters...there are only 4 on the market for the 11-13 models. I have done a lot of research on these and this is what i found out.
The stock shifter is already shorter than the 05-10's withe the new MT82 tranny
Barton=40% reduction. Which i have heard isn't healthy for this tranny over the long run.
Hurst=25-27% reduction, no reverse lockout because hurst said they were "too close" which is very unlike hurst to somewhat cop out of integrating their shifter to oem harness. You can get the optional "reverse light" which will need to be mounted and wired inside the car somewhere...huge turnoff
Steeda=25-27% reduction. Factory lockout, best of the 3 for just the shift post
MGW=25% reduction. This is the only shifter on the market that replaces the shiftbox and maintains oem lockout. This is a complete upgrade and frankly the only way to go! The factory lockout for reverse is plastic...yes plastic! The rear u bracket on the oem shiftox is held in place by a zip tie...yes a zip tie!! The MGW replaces all of this...none of the others do! Yes it's $400, but well worth it considering what you get
www.mgwltd.com
As far as rattle, all you need is a little loc-tite during install to solve this...which is commonly overlooked.
The stock shifter is already shorter than the 05-10's withe the new MT82 tranny
Barton=40% reduction. Which i have heard isn't healthy for this tranny over the long run.
Hurst=25-27% reduction, no reverse lockout because hurst said they were "too close" which is very unlike hurst to somewhat cop out of integrating their shifter to oem harness. You can get the optional "reverse light" which will need to be mounted and wired inside the car somewhere...huge turnoff
Steeda=25-27% reduction. Factory lockout, best of the 3 for just the shift post
MGW=25% reduction. This is the only shifter on the market that replaces the shiftbox and maintains oem lockout. This is a complete upgrade and frankly the only way to go! The factory lockout for reverse is plastic...yes plastic! The rear u bracket on the oem shiftox is held in place by a zip tie...yes a zip tie!! The MGW replaces all of this...none of the others do! Yes it's $400, but well worth it considering what you get
www.mgwltd.com
As far as rattle, all you need is a little loc-tite during install to solve this...which is commonly overlooked.
Just wanted to chime in on this comment. As far as 40% reduction hurting the Trans comment. THIS IS NOT TRUE.
When we 1st released our shifter, MGW made a post how anything over 20% reduction would hurt the syncros and their shifter would be 18-20% reduction when it was available. This caught traction and has been posted on multiple forums. It's simply not the truth, it's just a marketing gimmick to scare people away from our shifter. When they finally released their shifter they said it was 25% reduction, WELL.... just the other day on SVTP they had a few people saying they wished they would make the shifter shorter. MGW's reply was that they were working on offering a new top portion to their box that would make the shifter 30-35% reduction. Right after that MGW posted back and said they re-measured their shifter and it was actually 33% reduction all ready, and that they forgot to account for the shorter shaft when calculating throw reduction. So the same company that stated anything over 20% reduction would hurt the trans is no claiming their shifter is 33% reduction.
We've sold about 3000 shifters for the 2011+ Mustang. We offer a full 30 day money back Guarantee, Install it, use it, send it back if you dont like it. Out of those 3000 shifters, we have had 5 returns, that's a pretty good track record.
Shelby American uses our shifters in their GT350 cars, they could have chosen anyone they wanted to and they went with ours.
We also have a new box design that will be out in the coming months and it will feature our flat stick design like on our 2005-10 shifter and GT500 shifter. Along with the option of just a standard shaft for the factory appearance. If this design works like Im hopping it will, then it will be unlike anything out there.
One of the issues with a shifter that doesn't feature a reverse lockout and relies on a spring, is that if your drag racing or simply shifting hard, you risk the chance of pulling it a little to hard to you when you shift from 1st to 2nd gear, and that spring allows the shifter to move to far over and you get locked out of 2nd gear because you are trying to shift to a gear that is not there. I go to a lot of NMRA events, and I get asked all the time why their particular shifter does that. I tell them the issue why and once they switch to our shifter the problem is gone.
Thanks,
Dave
Last edited by Barton Industries; 05-17-2012 at 02:36 PM.