2013 gt w ford racing tune which CAI?
#42
#46
I don't even know where to start with my reply. There are so many thoughts flying around my head right now.
First off to the OP, you can absolutely run any CAI such as the AEM, K&N, Airaid (with installed and supplied venturi tube), or any other CAI that does not require a tune. This simply means the CAI's piping diameter where the MAS takes it's readings is the same diameter as the stock intake THUS giving the same air/fuel calculations. The car will not know the difference.
As far as stock vs. aftermarket CAI... For the people who think "more air is better" have NO idea how cars with variable valve timing make power. Any tuner who has worked with boost can tell you boost pressure is not everything if you enter into timing retard because of detonation. Dentonation comes from heat and a lower flash point of fuel (octane rating). If you pull in more hot engine compartment air because you have a less-restrictive open-element (and by element I mean air filter) you are doing yourself a dis-service. Don't believe me? Drive your car to the race track when it's 100+ degrees out. Then drive it when it's 70 degrees out or less. I will be the first to tell you BS if your times aren't SIGNIFICANTLY better with the cooler temps. The factory air box is NOT the best flowing design. That's true. But it pulls NOTHING but the coolest air availible, outside ambient air. It is also completely plastic and does not heat up like metal intakes. When EVER you see a dyno test, the hood is open and the aftermarket CAI has every advantage in the world because it's pulling ambient air from where the hood NORMALLY is. How does it flow when the hood is closed, and where does it pull air from (hot engine compartment or ambient air). For the non-answer to this, see this thread I posted (there still isn't an answer):
https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...-vs-stock.html
Now let's talk about these tunes. I have NOT tried any of the aftermarket tunes on this car, but I have the ProCal. I can't say either way which is better, but here is MY take from my experience.
I used to do a lot of tuning with my 06 Subaru STI, and one thing I learned from that car, is "peak" horsepower and torque gains can be deceiving. If a car gained NO peak power, but the rest of the power curve was flattened out, and the bottom end brought up closer to the top, the car will gain a lot of speed. This is why a turbo charged 200 horsepower car will smoke a naturally aspirated 200 horse power car. It gets to the power faster, and builds that low end torque almost immediately. The same is true here.
There is not a lot of red-line gain in power with the ProCal. But for the split second I am at red-line, the other majority of the time the RPMs are building with a lot more torque and power. The power curve feels much more flattened out and the car's acceleration is greatly improved. The car is plain faster.
This is why I can understand some of the comments about the aftermarket tune not being as good as the ProCal. But again, I cannot say myself as I have not experienced both.
First off to the OP, you can absolutely run any CAI such as the AEM, K&N, Airaid (with installed and supplied venturi tube), or any other CAI that does not require a tune. This simply means the CAI's piping diameter where the MAS takes it's readings is the same diameter as the stock intake THUS giving the same air/fuel calculations. The car will not know the difference.
As far as stock vs. aftermarket CAI... For the people who think "more air is better" have NO idea how cars with variable valve timing make power. Any tuner who has worked with boost can tell you boost pressure is not everything if you enter into timing retard because of detonation. Dentonation comes from heat and a lower flash point of fuel (octane rating). If you pull in more hot engine compartment air because you have a less-restrictive open-element (and by element I mean air filter) you are doing yourself a dis-service. Don't believe me? Drive your car to the race track when it's 100+ degrees out. Then drive it when it's 70 degrees out or less. I will be the first to tell you BS if your times aren't SIGNIFICANTLY better with the cooler temps. The factory air box is NOT the best flowing design. That's true. But it pulls NOTHING but the coolest air availible, outside ambient air. It is also completely plastic and does not heat up like metal intakes. When EVER you see a dyno test, the hood is open and the aftermarket CAI has every advantage in the world because it's pulling ambient air from where the hood NORMALLY is. How does it flow when the hood is closed, and where does it pull air from (hot engine compartment or ambient air). For the non-answer to this, see this thread I posted (there still isn't an answer):
https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...-vs-stock.html
Now let's talk about these tunes. I have NOT tried any of the aftermarket tunes on this car, but I have the ProCal. I can't say either way which is better, but here is MY take from my experience.
I used to do a lot of tuning with my 06 Subaru STI, and one thing I learned from that car, is "peak" horsepower and torque gains can be deceiving. If a car gained NO peak power, but the rest of the power curve was flattened out, and the bottom end brought up closer to the top, the car will gain a lot of speed. This is why a turbo charged 200 horsepower car will smoke a naturally aspirated 200 horse power car. It gets to the power faster, and builds that low end torque almost immediately. The same is true here.
There is not a lot of red-line gain in power with the ProCal. But for the split second I am at red-line, the other majority of the time the RPMs are building with a lot more torque and power. The power curve feels much more flattened out and the car's acceleration is greatly improved. The car is plain faster.
This is why I can understand some of the comments about the aftermarket tune not being as good as the ProCal. But again, I cannot say myself as I have not experienced both.
#47
I don't even know where to start with my reply. There are so many thoughts flying around my head right now.
First off to the OP, you can absolutely run any CAI such as the AEM, K&N, Airaid (with installed and supplied venturi tube), or any other CAI that does not require a tune. This simply means the CAI's piping diameter where the MAS takes it's readings is the same diameter as the stock intake THUS giving the same air/fuel calculations. The car will not know the difference.
As far as stock vs. aftermarket CAI... For the people who think "more air is better" have NO idea how cars with variable valve timing make power. Any tuner who has worked with boost can tell you boost pressure is not everything if you enter into timing retard because of detonation. Dentonation comes from heat and a lower flash point of fuel (octane rating). If you pull in more hot engine compartment air because you have a less-restrictive open-element (and by element I mean air filter) you are doing yourself a dis-service. Don't believe me? Drive your car to the race track when it's 100+ degrees out. Then drive it when it's 70 degrees out or less. I will be the first to tell you BS if your times aren't SIGNIFICANTLY better with the cooler temps. The factory air box is NOT the best flowing design. That's true. But it pulls NOTHING but the coolest air availible, outside ambient air. It is also completely plastic and does not heat up like metal intakes. When EVER you see a dyno test, the hood is open and the aftermarket CAI has every advantage in the world because it's pulling ambient air from where the hood NORMALLY is. How does it flow when the hood is closed, and where does it pull air from (hot engine compartment or ambient air). For the non-answer to this, see this thread I posted (there still isn't an answer):
https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...-vs-stock.html
Now let's talk about these tunes. I have NOT tried any of the aftermarket tunes on this car, but I have the ProCal. I can't say either way which is better, but here is MY take from my experience.
I used to do a lot of tuning with my 06 Subaru STI, and one thing I learned from that car, is "peak" horsepower and torque gains can be deceiving. If a car gained NO peak power, but the rest of the power curve was flattened out, and the bottom end brought up closer to the top, the car will gain a lot of speed. This is why a turbo charged 200 horsepower car will smoke a naturally aspirated 200 horse power car. It gets to the power faster, and builds that low end torque almost immediately. The same is true here.
There is not a lot of red-line gain in power with the ProCal. But for the split second I am at red-line, the other majority of the time the RPMs are building with a lot more torque and power. The power curve feels much more flattened out and the car's acceleration is greatly improved. The car is plain faster.
This is why I can understand some of the comments about the aftermarket tune not being as good as the ProCal. But again, I cannot say myself as I have not experienced both.
First off to the OP, you can absolutely run any CAI such as the AEM, K&N, Airaid (with installed and supplied venturi tube), or any other CAI that does not require a tune. This simply means the CAI's piping diameter where the MAS takes it's readings is the same diameter as the stock intake THUS giving the same air/fuel calculations. The car will not know the difference.
As far as stock vs. aftermarket CAI... For the people who think "more air is better" have NO idea how cars with variable valve timing make power. Any tuner who has worked with boost can tell you boost pressure is not everything if you enter into timing retard because of detonation. Dentonation comes from heat and a lower flash point of fuel (octane rating). If you pull in more hot engine compartment air because you have a less-restrictive open-element (and by element I mean air filter) you are doing yourself a dis-service. Don't believe me? Drive your car to the race track when it's 100+ degrees out. Then drive it when it's 70 degrees out or less. I will be the first to tell you BS if your times aren't SIGNIFICANTLY better with the cooler temps. The factory air box is NOT the best flowing design. That's true. But it pulls NOTHING but the coolest air availible, outside ambient air. It is also completely plastic and does not heat up like metal intakes. When EVER you see a dyno test, the hood is open and the aftermarket CAI has every advantage in the world because it's pulling ambient air from where the hood NORMALLY is. How does it flow when the hood is closed, and where does it pull air from (hot engine compartment or ambient air). For the non-answer to this, see this thread I posted (there still isn't an answer):
https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...-vs-stock.html
Now let's talk about these tunes. I have NOT tried any of the aftermarket tunes on this car, but I have the ProCal. I can't say either way which is better, but here is MY take from my experience.
I used to do a lot of tuning with my 06 Subaru STI, and one thing I learned from that car, is "peak" horsepower and torque gains can be deceiving. If a car gained NO peak power, but the rest of the power curve was flattened out, and the bottom end brought up closer to the top, the car will gain a lot of speed. This is why a turbo charged 200 horsepower car will smoke a naturally aspirated 200 horse power car. It gets to the power faster, and builds that low end torque almost immediately. The same is true here.
There is not a lot of red-line gain in power with the ProCal. But for the split second I am at red-line, the other majority of the time the RPMs are building with a lot more torque and power. The power curve feels much more flattened out and the car's acceleration is greatly improved. The car is plain faster.
This is why I can understand some of the comments about the aftermarket tune not being as good as the ProCal. But again, I cannot say myself as I have not experienced both.
Last edited by gs462; 09-04-2012 at 06:54 AM.
#48
Now let's talk about these tunes. I have NOT tried any of the aftermarket tunes on this car, but I have the ProCal. I can't say either way which is better, but here is MY take from my experience.
I used to do a lot of tuning with my 06 Subaru STI, and one thing I learned from that car, is "peak" horsepower and torque gains can be deceiving. If a car gained NO peak power, but the rest of the power curve was flattened out, and the bottom end brought up closer to the top, the car will gain a lot of speed. This is why a turbo charged 200 horsepower car will smoke a naturally aspirated 200 horse power car. It gets to the power faster, and builds that low end torque almost immediately. The same is true here.
There is not a lot of red-line gain in power with the ProCal. But for the split second I am at red-line, the other majority of the time the RPMs are building with a lot more torque and power. The power curve feels much more flattened out and the car's acceleration is greatly improved. The car is plain faster.
This is why I can understand some of the comments about the aftermarket tune not being as good as the ProCal. But again, I cannot say myself as I have not experienced both.
I used to do a lot of tuning with my 06 Subaru STI, and one thing I learned from that car, is "peak" horsepower and torque gains can be deceiving. If a car gained NO peak power, but the rest of the power curve was flattened out, and the bottom end brought up closer to the top, the car will gain a lot of speed. This is why a turbo charged 200 horsepower car will smoke a naturally aspirated 200 horse power car. It gets to the power faster, and builds that low end torque almost immediately. The same is true here.
There is not a lot of red-line gain in power with the ProCal. But for the split second I am at red-line, the other majority of the time the RPMs are building with a lot more torque and power. The power curve feels much more flattened out and the car's acceleration is greatly improved. The car is plain faster.
This is why I can understand some of the comments about the aftermarket tune not being as good as the ProCal. But again, I cannot say myself as I have not experienced both.
#49
This is pretty much what I've been trying to say multiple times around the forums and referring to as drive-ability. Most people just look at a dyno sheet and if the #s are higher, then that equals "better" and they're done. Every tune I've ever tried, and there must be dozens at this point across many vehicles, has certainly had an effect of some sort. Only a small percentage of them had a positive effect on drive-ability however. I remain impressed with the FRPP tune. It simply suits the car very well.
#50
This is pretty much what I've been trying to say multiple times around the forums and referring to as drive-ability. Most people just look at a dyno sheet and if the #s are higher, then that equals "better" and they're done. Every tune I've ever tried, and there must be dozens at this point across many vehicles, has certainly had an effect of some sort. Only a small percentage of them had a positive effect on drive-ability however. I remain impressed with the FRPP tune. It simply suits the car very well.
The minute amount of HP it gives up on top is over a performance tune, it is more powerful then stock everywhere in the curve. In a world of low quality fuels at the pump and cars that blow #8 stock this is a great way to do it.
Ford and I think so too.
As for the stock intake VS aftermarket we're still looking for local independent testers.
As for the Diablosport Intune not leaving a mark, I'm working with a dealer now to show this too!
Thanks, Doug
Last edited by Doug@C&L; 09-05-2012 at 10:38 AM.