cidsamuth

There is much misinformation out there on what is often labeled the "ignitor tick" and "the tick."

Bottom line, the 5.0 makes a bunch of noises, some normal and some not normal. Which tick you have will determine whether there is a TSB to fix it or not. I have read nowhere where thicker oil changed anything on any of the ticks.

I got the mystery additive on my ignitor tick, and that took away the noise immediately. But, it came back after every oil change. Eventually, I ended up with a new engine. That engine makes some noises too, but not the ignitor tick.

OP, put a YouTube video up, and we will be better equiped to help you.

wonospeed

im at work and really cant post a vid right now but is sounds just like these 2. and and i just changed my oil with motorcraft oil and filter last night before was mobile 1 and a fram filter with the same end result

grabber blue gt

Yeah agreed mine sounds the same as the above 2 videos just DEFINITELY not as bad, and mine only happens when the car is under load. Those videos show it happening on just a normal idle with no load. If my car was ever that bad it'd be at the dealer the next day

wonospeed

My car does it when warm between 800-2000 worse with a/c on and sounds like the videos above after changing the oil. As i accumulate mileage it is less and less noticeable.

SilverHoss

What does ignitor tick mean? That is, what is an ignitor, and why would one tick?
I have some tick, which sounds very similar to the two above videos, but not as loud. And only when hot, as in fully warmed up.
It is rythmic, but not steady and the tick misses a beat from time to time. I mainly only notice it when in a parking lot or drive-thru.
When it has not yet warmed up, no tick.
What's weirder is, I can listen all around the engine and cannot really hear where it's coming from. But, if I lean down and listen to underneath the car, it sounds like it's coming from underneath. Car runs strong, and it has not gotten worse, so not sure whether to even worry about it. I know if I take it to the dealer, they will try and feed me full of BS.
What up?

wonospeed

I dont like paying almost $500 dollars a month for car to have it sound like this. I like the sound of the exhaust under wot and the intake when i snap the throttle down. I do not like this random tick on my $30k performance car that people that know nothing about cars can even hear walking by my car. I have no faith in the dealership fixing it either with all the people on the forums talking about their dealership experience having there car for a month replacing everything from timing chains to cam phasers and what ever else they feel like and still not fixing the car.

jyna06gt

This has me thinking too, im due for my 1st oil change here in a few weeks. Mines a late year 2011 and i do not have the tick's or anything. I gotta say im not looking forward to it after seeing 11's and 12's with this issue.

grabber blue gt

You both hit the nail right on the head. Does it ONLY when fully warmed, wont do it if its any bit cooler than full temp, is WORSE when the A/C is on, BUTTTT does get better as mileage accumulates.

I do agree with the above post though, it pissed me the **** off that my $40k car ticks and sounds like a POS old car when it shouldnt be ticking like this. I also agree that my brand new car shouldnt be torn apart and have new timing chains and phasers put in. I understand things do go wrong, but for thousands to do this from the factory? This is insane!!

I have honestly considered going to the dealer and getting the "magic additive" if it doesnt get better withing another 300miles. I cant have my car sounding like this. My 2002 daily driver hyundai doesnt even tick like this

wonospeed

My 85 mustang svo made all kinds of weird noises from the engine(timing belt design/noisy valve train)but that was a 25 year old car with 25 year old technology not a 2011 with so much research and development and money spent on the engine. If my car wasnt so badass minus the tick i would traded it in already.

t_kurgan

Definitely sounds metallic; if it is ignition/coil related, one could remove one at a time, which will throw a CEL, but you may be able to isolate it. It really sounds more like the hydraulic lifter assemblies or perhaps noisy fuel injectors (these are not direct injection, which are extremely loud, but non-DI injectors do tick.