DPE

The fix is in, I think. Installed part number BR3Z-2455-P, which is the part number in the 2011 TSB that supposedly fixes the issue on the early 2011 cars. It arrived looking just like Brazen's pic above; silver assist spring and a spring up at the pivot. I had a mind to remove the assist spring entirely before the install, but figured I'd try it as it sits. Install isn't hard in general, but it's a PITA all the same. Brake fluid gets spilled (was prepared with strategically placed towels), and the bolts holding the cluster up top are WAY up under the dash. But it's a couple hours of cursing and you're done. Bleeding takes about 80-100 pumps of the pedal, but it bled just fine and pumped up okay etc. Also of note I replaced the pin that connects the brake pedal to the brake master cylinder. The book says it's a one-time use part, and I didn't want to gamble on that particular part. Both parts came from Tasca off of ebay; they took care of me right.

I have not had a chance to really work it over on a track etc., but I've been out a couple times redlining 2nd and 3rd, and it just works. My old one would return very slowly, sometimes, after a redline shift. Needless to say that made the upshift pretty clunky, and was quite annoying on a new vehicle. Now it just comes on back like it should. It's still a slightly awkward feeling clutch due to the assist spring (puts a little hitch in the process), and one day I may try it without, but for now the thing seems to work properly so I'm going to go with it as-is. My track days keep getting blown up by work or weather as of late, but hopefully next month will be better so I can try it out at the extreme edge of what I'll be doing with it.

My two thoughts are thus; one, the spring on the pivot offers just enough return force to help the pressure plate push the pedal back at the expected rate despite the assist spring, and/or two, the assist spring on this pedal cluster is a lower rate spring than what's on some cars, and thus provides less 'assist' holding the pedal down which allows the system to work properly. And I may yet find that there are still issues once I get to spend a whole lot of time at redline. But for now, it's seeming like a well-spent $200. And if there are issues, I can remove the assist spring and maybe since I also have a pivot spring now I'll lose the extra play at the top of the travel.

Slowbra302

As for those that are shifting at or near stock redline, this is irrelevant to you. The clutch staying depressed is only presenting itself above factory level redline. I experienced the same thing once I got my tunes installed. I will go to shift around 7200-7300 and it would stick until i let the motor rerun down below 6800ish. I removed the helper spring probably around 24k miles ago and no issue. Also since then installed a custom Kevlar and ceramic woven clutch disc. Still no helper spring, but with the new clutch, PP, and TOB, the thing drives 10x better than with the stock clutch assembly. I mean it was great while it lasted but this new clutch if phenomenal!!!!

DPE

Slowbra, that is not correct. My car is bone stock. I had a clutch stayout issue. I replaced the pedal assembly, and thus far I no longer have a clutch stayout issue. Now, if I get a tune and up the redline etc. perhaps the assist spring will need to come off, but for now it's good enough. Point being, some cars come out of the factory with a stayout issue.

I think yours is the ultimate solution though; a stouter clutch and no assist spring should make it just right.

bryan67

Hey DPE check with your dealership, ran into a guy at MIR had the same issue. Ended up being A Bad Diaphram spring on the clutch Plate. Guess there finding about 1% of them are bad.

Slowbra302

My apologies DPE, I must've missed that you were experiencing this at factory redline. First case I've heard of it. So which pedal assembly did you purchase (link please . Yea I am not sure if the spring makes a difference with the new clutch parts, but I am so used to it I won't put it back on lol.