MCBigDog

How serviceable is the stock drivetrain (clutch, driveshaft, axles, gears) for a fairly steady diet of drag racing? At some point it will all be replaced with heavy duty components but I don't really want to wait. I'm already getting the rear suspension in order, welded tubes, UCA, LCA's, Panhard & Brace, LCA lowering brackets, shocks. It's a manual so I want to run a 10" wide slick. Will the stock stuff hold up or will I be scattering parts everywhere?

ticopowell

I have a 2013 GT as well, so I can kind of answer your questions. From what I have seen if you are 100% stock you can run all day with a low chance of breaking anything. Since you are adding slicks those add a lot more wear on the clutch, tranny, gears, driveshaft, etc... so I wouldn't do too many passes without upgrading.
You could do the lazy man's way and upgrade as you can, and fix stuff when it breaks.
If you had any power-adders I would upgrade your parts sooner than later.
It seems like you have the rear suspension mostly sorted out, so that should help when it is all installed, but it will also cause more damage to the clutch because the torque involved with sticky tires.
But... Don't take my word for it. I am basically repeating what I have read, and used my version of logic for the rest.
Hope that helps a little!

scottmach

The autos can handle anything you throw at them. The manuals can't without upgrading parts.

MCBigDog

No power adders, just a CAI, tune, h-pipe and cat back. I was looking for a little real world experience. Anybody beating the crap out of their MT82 Coyote at the strip with the stock drivetrain?

P51C

Over 100 passes on slicks and a mild Procal tune. Full option load 2012 MT-82 car on 3.73, 11 sec 1/4s. 4500-6000 rpm clutch drop launches. Nothing broke. Sway bar end links got noisy recently and a shock started to seep a little. Ford replaced both under warranty. Neither issue could be specifically tied to DR.

MCBigDog

I'm going to stud the differential bearing caps and install a girdle type differential cover for a little cheap insurance. Other than that, I'm going to let her rip. Clutch, driveshaft and axles will have to wait until next year.

P51C

Big thing on the stock cars is, in my view, leave off the relo brackets if you're going slick. If you can't weld them in and weld the axle tubes while you're at it, you're asking to twist the tubes and trash the rear.

I'm using just a Roush upper and cheapo $100 UMI poly LCAs and that's all been fine. Stock BBP springs, shocks and bar. It's no ultimate drag setup but, I DD the car so, it has to be quiet and effective.

MCBigDog

I was already planning on welding the tubes but the jury was still out on welding the relo brackets. I might as well while I'm at it. Thanks for the input.

scottmach

BMR relocation brackets do not need welding. In fact they suggest you not weld them.

MCBigDog

The BMR brackets look the same as my Whitelines (except for the additional adjustment holes). BMR claims on their site 1.1 to 1.4 60' ft times with the brackets only bolted. That's impressive.