AC Bypass 2013 Mustang GT
#1
AC Bypass 2013 Mustang GT
So I went to the dealership due to the fact that my ac wasnt working and the condenser was making some noise. Long story short they want to charge me $3000 to replace the condenser, drier, etc along with vac the lines and refill the refridgerant. Car is out of warranty and I only have 35k miles on it. Is there a way to bypass the ac on a 2013 mustang gt? I rarely use my ac.
#3
Removing the fuse would be the same as NOT using it, but you still have the
drive belt driving the pulley. He is asking about a bypass, basically, removing the
compressor and using a shorter belt.
Not sure that can be done that way, but there maybe a bypass pulley for it, so the
belt is still turning a pulley, but not a compressor pulley. Even so, the compressor
pulley when the clutch is not engaged offers very little parasitic loss, and the bypass
pulley would probably have about the same.
drive belt driving the pulley. He is asking about a bypass, basically, removing the
compressor and using a shorter belt.
Not sure that can be done that way, but there maybe a bypass pulley for it, so the
belt is still turning a pulley, but not a compressor pulley. Even so, the compressor
pulley when the clutch is not engaged offers very little parasitic loss, and the bypass
pulley would probably have about the same.
#4
So I went to the dealership due to the fact that my ac wasnt working and the condenser was making some noise. Long story short they want to charge me $3000 to replace the condenser, drier, etc along with vac the lines and refill the refridgerant. Car is out of warranty and I only have 35k miles on it. Is there a way to bypass the ac on a 2013 mustang gt? I rarely use my ac.
Find and talk to a shop and ask them if they would be willing to evacuate the system for you, let you do the repairs, then check and refill your system? Cost like maybe $200 tops. For me, my dealer works with me pretty well and I had them do that for me when I fixed the leaking system in our Ford Escape a few years ago.
You can buy AC kits online that include the receiver drier, compressor, some oil, and I forget what else for like $300 then buy the condenser from Rock Auto. Do the install yourself and have the shop check over your work, refill it and be done for like $600 vs the $3K you were quoted.
#5
I just compiled a list of parts that the service dude said needed replacing. Im just going to do it myself. It should save me about $2000. I hate dealerships but I also hate working on my cars these days lol
#6
So the dealership just left me a voicemail stating that he could just cut the belt off and the car would still be operable but i could have sworn that that belt is running something else as well. Anybody have any idea on what else runs on that belt? Im an idiot when it comes to the belts and diagrams lol
#10
Yeah, easily save yourself a ****-ton and do it yourself.
When you buy a kit, it will come with the Compressor (and clutch), receiver/drier, expansion valve, oil, and any o-rings that are needed. Get the condenser separately. Ones in kits are usually really chintzy/cheap.
Hoses, should not need them unless you have a broken/leaking hose or a contaminated system from a bad compressor.
A flush is unnecessary for a leak unless the system has been left empty and neglected for more than a few months. If anything, a flush could cause problems if not done properly or if **** is pushed into the tiny passageways of the evaporator core in the dash. That or you don't get all of the solvent flushed out so it ruins your new parts by eating away at ALL the seals or messes up the high/low pressure in the system. Only time a flush should really be needed/done is if your compressor failed and you get shrapnel/junk in the system. (look up AC black death).
If your system is already empty due to the leak, you should be fine to just replace the parts and take it down to a shop for recharge. You'll want to rent a vacuum pump to pull a vacuum in the system and check for initial leaks before you go to the shop. Otherwise, if there is a leak and they have to look for it, they'll charge you extra for diagnostics.
4 seaons offers a a decent kit
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...nent+kit,17507
Looks like you may have to buy an o-ring kit separately. No big deal https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,mustang,5.0l+v8,1503807,heat+&+air+condi tioning,a/c+system+o-rings%2C+seals%2C+&+gasket+kits,13290
When you buy a kit, it will come with the Compressor (and clutch), receiver/drier, expansion valve, oil, and any o-rings that are needed. Get the condenser separately. Ones in kits are usually really chintzy/cheap.
Hoses, should not need them unless you have a broken/leaking hose or a contaminated system from a bad compressor.
A flush is unnecessary for a leak unless the system has been left empty and neglected for more than a few months. If anything, a flush could cause problems if not done properly or if **** is pushed into the tiny passageways of the evaporator core in the dash. That or you don't get all of the solvent flushed out so it ruins your new parts by eating away at ALL the seals or messes up the high/low pressure in the system. Only time a flush should really be needed/done is if your compressor failed and you get shrapnel/junk in the system. (look up AC black death).
If your system is already empty due to the leak, you should be fine to just replace the parts and take it down to a shop for recharge. You'll want to rent a vacuum pump to pull a vacuum in the system and check for initial leaks before you go to the shop. Otherwise, if there is a leak and they have to look for it, they'll charge you extra for diagnostics.
4 seaons offers a a decent kit
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...nent+kit,17507
Looks like you may have to buy an o-ring kit separately. No big deal https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,mustang,5.0l+v8,1503807,heat+&+air+condi tioning,a/c+system+o-rings%2C+seals%2C+&+gasket+kits,13290
Last edited by Derf00; 03-01-2019 at 12:45 PM.