Can I buy a kit for a Big 3 Upgrade?
#1
Can I buy a kit for a Big 3 Upgrade?
After doing a little research, I've decided that instead of a capacitor, I'd rather do a big 3 upgrade. My lights intermittently dim when I crank the volume. I have a stock alternator, Optima Red Top, 500 watts rms going to a 12" Alpine Type R, and a 4 ch Pioneer amp pushing 4 x 75 watts rms.
Is there a site that sells all the wires and stuff as a kit to complete the install? Thanks.
Is there a site that sells all the wires and stuff as a kit to complete the install? Thanks.
#2
First I would try upgrading the ground wires first to see if that helps. Until you upgrade your stock alternator to a high output, it is semi pointless to upgrade that charging wire. Sure you will have less resistance but it is not like you are going to squeeze blood out of a turnip. In other words, you can't get more than what is available from your stock alternator and the Big 3 is no magic cure for dimming issues.
Unfortunately, I have yet to see any pre-configured Big 3 kits on the market. Then again, I can't say I would want the potential liability on my hands the way most people wire their Big 3 setups. From a safety perspective, they generally do not fuse the +12v wire coming from the alternator. All it would take is one of those lugs breaking to burn the car down to the ground.
Unfortunately, I have yet to see any pre-configured Big 3 kits on the market. Then again, I can't say I would want the potential liability on my hands the way most people wire their Big 3 setups. From a safety perspective, they generally do not fuse the +12v wire coming from the alternator. All it would take is one of those lugs breaking to burn the car down to the ground.
#3
What kind of amp are you running on the bass? Or is that Pioneer running the whole thing? I've done setups like that on Mustangs for years with little problems.
Upgrading your ground wire is a major issue that even many professional installers over look. They will install a 4 ga. wire to amps, then ground to the body, but the body only has an 8 ga. wire going back to the battery.
Another thing to consider is the age of your Optima. If it's older than 4 years, then it might be time to replace it.
Upgrading your ground wire is a major issue that even many professional installers over look. They will install a 4 ga. wire to amps, then ground to the body, but the body only has an 8 ga. wire going back to the battery.
Another thing to consider is the age of your Optima. If it's older than 4 years, then it might be time to replace it.
#4
The sub amp is an Alpine MRP-M500 and the 4 channel amp is a Pioneer GM-6400F powering 4 Pioneer TS-D6802R speakers. I correct myself, that is 60 watts rms. The Optima is 1 & 1/2 years old with the car shut off and stereo on a moderate volume I'm getting 12.5 v; engine on idling is like 15.0 v.
So Shaft, the 8 ga. wire you are talking about is the one that came stock from the negative terminal on the battery?
So Shaft, the 8 ga. wire you are talking about is the one that came stock from the negative terminal on the battery?
#7
big 3 helps a little bit depending how good your grounds are and ttocs is rights caps are the worst they'll kill your alternator on its own more than a full car audio system. Stock alternators can only dish out 105 amps, so depending on how much the Alpine MRP-M500 and the Pioneer GM-6400F would pull. Having the big 3 wouldn't help much though it does make a difference
#8
What about an alternator overdrive pulley with a big three upgrade and bump up my idle rpms by 100rpms with my tuner? Would that make a difference? I don't really want to spend the money on a new alternator.
#10
I'm thinking he wants to completely eliminate the problem like all of us... what if runs into one of those bad weather days where he has the sub blastin down the road, the A/C on full blast, and he has to use the headlights? The voltage would drop like crazy and it'd be worse if he was at idle. Iraggi Alternator is not all that expensive probably the same price as your Alpine MRP-M500 and depending if you get the Actuator or the Dominator Series. I have a Yellow Top under the hood and its been there since 08. I had the battery itself since 06. Its still doing pretty good.
Yeah you're right it probably won't just make it work harder than it has to I want to replace the factory 8 gauge wires. I know one goes to the fuse box can't figure out where the other leads to probably run those wires in 4 gauge. I already have my big3 in 0 gauge wire
Yeah you're right it probably won't just make it work harder than it has to I want to replace the factory 8 gauge wires. I know one goes to the fuse box can't figure out where the other leads to probably run those wires in 4 gauge. I already have my big3 in 0 gauge wire