starbai

Iskwezm.... was there any reason that you didn't suggest the PAC AOEM-FRD24 to me?

I decided to try the AudioControl LC2i for simplicity and ease of install (just tap the rear speakers and bingo) - but I dont think its working the way I'd like it to. Even after adjusting it, the signal going to the amp, just doesn't seem as clear and crisp as it should be.

So now I'm back to square one trying to figure out where the best bass signal is to go to the sub.

That plug and play connector seems to be exactly what I'd need... but in a PM a while back you said that it didn't work the way you expected it to? OR something to that effect?

Anyway, any further advice for me? I need the easiest way to get a signal, I've already got a remote on.

Someone has told me theres a way to tap the signal from some kinda pre-amp in the passenger footwell.....


My goal is to splice, or cut into the least amount of wiring possible.

If the PAC AOEM-FRD24 will work for what I need it to do, I'm willing to drop the $35 for it. But I need confirmation first please if you could.

Edit: I just looked into the AOEM-FRD24 again, and It seems that it gives 2 front channel out puts and 2 rear channel out puts, but what would you use for the subwoofer ouput? It seems like it does nothing for that 3rd (smallest connector) in the back of the radio that supposedly houses the subwoofer output that I need. I'm thinking about just T-Tapping into those wires and running it to the Active LOC that I have.

The only reason THAT confuses me, is that the AudioControl LC2i requires inputs from two speakers, where as the subwoofer output on the headunit for the sub is just one "speaker' (One positive One Negative, 2 wires not 4) ---

I've a feeling I'm making all this way more difficult than it has to be. lol

Thanks in advance for all your help.

starbai

anyone? anyone?

mondo73

PAC AOEM-FRD24 will be the way to go for your application.

starbai

Mondo, thank you, I do appreciate your reply. can you tell me though how to hook it up?

I have the jist of it and understand it... my only quesiton is I'm ONLY adding a subwoofer amp... this harness only gives an RCA output for the front two speakers, and the rear two speakers.

Where do I plug my sub amp into? front?? Rear? thats what I'm confused about... and either or of these options ignores the fact that the headunit supposedly has its own subwoofer out put. doesn't it?

wayne613

That unit is tapping from the main harness speaker lines. It´s just a direct plugin, female end to existing factory 24pin harness, male back into the radio.

WIth this unit it shouldn´t matter which 2 you use. But usually most will go with the rear outs for this use.

Yes, it is not tapping the existing 8pin harness subwoofer outs. Not sure why that´s an issue, unless you wished to kill the existing subs in addition to adding this. Tapping those for use on a LOC, even active, would likely give you craptacular results, as it´s already a pre-out, not the amplified speaker outs the LOC is used with.

starbai

I guess the reason using the front or the rear outputs was confusing me is that, I was under the impression that the stock headunit, did some kind of its own processing where it automatically turned the bass down at higher volumes. Unless this was being done at the amps that go to the subs rather than the factory headunit, if being done at all?

My 2nd bit of confusion, is that i DO have an ACTIVE LOC that I got a signal off of the two rear speakers, that go into my subwoofer amp. And that "solution" is giving me less than desireable results no matter how I tweak this Active LOC (AudioControl LC2i)

So my confusion, or thought was, well if I'm getting the signal from the rear speaker and it sucks, why is getting the same rear speaker signal from the back of the headunit going to be any better? If at all?

And for that reason, I assumed, I needed to tap that subwoofer out, and NOT utilize the RCA connections that the PAC converter would give, for subwoofer signals.

Perhaps, its the AudioControl LC2i causing more harm to the signal than good?

So given those assumptions... the PAC AOEM-FRD24 is still the best way to get a clean signal to my subwoofer amp?

wayne613

Yeah, not sure on that front myself. I'd say it's likely if those taps are giving crappy bass. There might be more static or interference down the line, but not loss of response. I don't know for certain, but it does sound like some bandpass filtering is being done. Didn't think the shaker units did any really for the 4 standard outs, perhaps new? Not sure, my old one didn't stay in a week..

If the door-subs are going to be essentially drowned out from this, why not just disconnect and buy a simple 8pin reverse harness(can't find the damn 8pin on it's own) to do a direct run of the pre-outs to the new amp?

None have RCA's set on the output wires for the 8 pin reverse harness by the look of it, so you'd need to solder 'em on though. Then ya could just straight run the RCA's to the new amp and be done. Or even try it with that and a normal harness as well, using 2 RCA Y-adapters, just to see how it is with the factory subs running as well. Of course, remembering to reconnect the remote turn on lines again from the reverse harness to the normal).

Should you be dead-set on using the LOC, or not trying the above, you can get a couple bypass cables to hack up so you can tap into the subs amplified signal without damaging the existing factory wiring. Can't remember what off-hand what they use for certain, but I think these will do.

pentavolvo

if the stock headunit is rolling bass off to your speakers then its still gonna do this even with the harness

Iskwezm

I didnt recommend it because I dont like it in this application.I tried and after chasing my tail for a few weeks, we figured out the amp wasnt getting a true sub signal.It was more of a midrange signal. I tapped into the sub signal in the trunk(same as the Shaker 500 amp in the drivers kick).

starbai

This is what I was concerned with. Exactly.

When you say 'tapped' how'd you convert to RCA? Using LOC? The two amps are very easily identifiable in the driver's kick panel, I just have no idea which wires in that kick panel to 'tap' and how to go tap it... Passive basic LOC? Solder on my own RCA's? Active LOC?