rsh0763

After looking at various diagrams, I got to thinking.

Why would I not be able to re-use some of the existing wiring from the gutted Mach 460 components to save me some trouble of re-wiring the doors/rear deck of my 2001 GT?

I know that it would take some re-direction, but I wanted to run this by the guru's.

Kenwood HU
JL Audio 4-channel amp
Infinity Kappa 6x8 components with crossovers
Low noise 4 channel RCA patch cable and another 2-channel to provision for Sub addition later (If I do not like the bass from the Kappas)

1 option I see.

Run RCA's, 4 sets of speaker wire, power control wire for amp, from amp location to HU location. Re-use the existing power feed/ground to the new 4-channel amp. Wire new speaker wire from amp to the tweeter wire at head unit location, utilize speaker wire for tweeters to service the Kappa crossover, speakers from there.

Option 2

Run RCA's from HU to Rear Deck, re-use power/ground/control wire (is there one?) patch speaker wires used to feed subs from 4 channel to crossovers, assuming I can tap into individual leads.

Option 3

Run Power/control wires from HU/Battery, establish ground near amp, run RCA's from HU to Amp location, run new speaker wire to each location in doors and rear deck.

So, am I imagining things? Or can I re-use some of the current infrastructure?

Thanks for any input.

Brian68

I'm no Guru, but here's my two cents worth. Everyone I've talked to (I'm installing an 02 mach 460 into an 00 non-mach set up....that's another story) says that Ford did not put anything extra into their wiring. The quality of wires and the way it was ran was the minimum needed to get by. The main thing I was told is that they ran the power feed and the speaker wires together which can affect a more sensitive or aftermarket system. So basicly I was told is that if I was staying with the factory system I was ok on wiring (I re-used the entire mach 460 harness from the donor car), but if I was going to go aftermarket I would get the best results upgrading the wiring also. Hope this helps!

rsh0763

I actually opened it up, it looks like the amps are powered by a small group of wires (3) rather than a large gauge wire which best suits any amplifier (The theory is there and it probably works fine, but why bother if I am changing everything?) I was just thinking that maybe if Ford used a larger gauge wire, that I would have the 12V power worked out for the amp since it would be run in an area distant from the speaker/RCA wires. Basically preventing me from going down BOTH sides of the car, but screw it, I am going new with everything.

ttocs

you can re-use some of the speaker wires but I would not recomend using the power wires. Most aftermarket amps will have the ability to draw more power then the factory wiring would allow.

rsh0763

Yeah.. I hear that. I just had this image in my mind in the interest of safety, that Ford might have used a larger supply wire considering power was serving two amps, but they are so set on a harness/plug that they used 3 wires, in a set, that occupy spots on a terminal so that the current requirement can be met. It is like 3 16-18 gauge wire. Fine for speakers, but I wouldn't hook up even a wimpy amp with that setup.

Brian68

I agree! if you're going to do it, do it right!

Good Luck!

ttocs

power wires are not much bigger then the speaker wires, the amps were just not designed to be high current amps like most aftermarket. AGain the stock speaker wire is just fine to use and it is already ran to most locations for you. RE-running that wire would not buy you much for your trouble.

a common trick to save the trouble of re-running speaker wires while installing a four channel amp is to run one set of speaker wires from the amp directly to the rear speakers and hook them up. Do not use any of the stock wiring. Now for the front speakers, run the wire right next to the wires you just installed but connect those wires to the stock speaker wires. Now go up in your dash and connect the rear speaker wires, to the front speaker wires. Now your factory front speaker wires will run your amplified signal. All you need to do is one run of wires(4 sets of speaker wires) and its a short distance.

rsh0763

I was going to do just that. That was pretty much the purpose of this thread, so now that I am finished, here is how it went down.

Believe it or not, the cheap POS Blaupunkt 4-channel-low-budget amp I used for my Ram 2500 sounds better and has more punch than the JL audio 4 channel I purchased for the Mustang. Since the kids are always watching movies in the back seat of the Ram, I don't care as much about the music.

So the JL works fine in my Ram now.

Installed Kappa 6x8 woofers in factory spot of doors.

Installed Kappa tweets in the Mach 460 tweeter location in door.

Found the only spot (a little above the door handle) that I could install the crossovers on the inside of the door liner, I don't do behind the speaker in the door because it can get wet there.

Used factory tweeter wire to the crossover ran new wire to speakers from crossover.

Removed seats.

Ran zero noise, twisted pair 4-channel RCA's, (1) 2-channel RCA's, (2) speaker wires and amp remote wire down passenger side of car and up through the rear pillar area so wires came out high in trunk.

Ran fat power wire down drivers side, also fish-taped through pillar to follow factory wiring path.

Tied new speaker wire with factory door speaker wires at deck location, connected all RCA's to back of deck.

Had my 12 year old son remove the Mach amps and rack while my 6'2 frame watched in comfort from outside the trunk area.

replaced all wiring in the Mach rack, installed crossovers inside rack and installed new speakers in factory location. Left long tail from each wire to deal with any amp placement issues.

Flipped Mach rack over, fit amp to underside of Mach rack, used larger, coarse screws to fasten amp to bottom of mach rack. trimmed rack speaker wires and connected to amp while outside car. Attached fat ground wire to amp prior to install (less work to do while in vehicle)

Installed Mach rack, with amp attached to it by myself, in the dark, with 5 feet of snow outside in a rain storm (or so it seemed like)

Tied in rest of wiring to amp while sitting on short stool outside of the trunk., wasn't that bad actually. I still have some trimming and tying to do. I wasn't sure about needing a sub, but if I need one I can easily add it down the road with my unused RCA that is already connected to the HU and has plastic caps over the end in case there is any current to them.

I kind of liked having that Mach rack to attach the amp to, plus it makes the Kappas really kick out the bass for being 6x8 woofers. SO much better than the 460 (which is fine for stock) There is a lot more "presence". Still think I will be adding a Sub, to get a little more feel.

rsh0763

Wow, amazing. I have probably put about 5 hours through those kappas and I gotta say, they are really, really clean. I ended up ordering a 12" sub for the trunk, but honestly, the system doesn't need it. For the price I paid, those kappas are worth every penny. No joke, that blaupunkt amp I am using was only 80 dollars. It does not dissapoint. I have heard it all about focal, polk and JL and I almost spent the money because I didn't want to do this twice. The infinity components are simply rocking this car. I would highly recommend them. Direct replacements, aside from the amp in the middle of the mach rack and the HU, it looks completely factory. My only complaint is that while cranking the system and I mean cranking it in the ipod, the very highs carry a little "sss". Same tune on CD doesn't do it. That level literally causes my ears pain anyways. Well, what an adventure. Back to actual car performance for me. I'm actually kind of glad my son ruined my mach 460 deck now.

rsh0763

I should add, for that time I had the head unit running with the mach harness and the harness rca plugs in the SW outs, that using the deck's built in HPF created a great sound. I could easily have lived with that with the tweeters running on the pre amp from the Kenwood and the stock woofers. If the deck didn't have a high setting for the HPF, it wouldn't work, but I could crank it fine.