Kenwood DDX419 wiring question
#1
Kenwood DDX419 wiring question
So I just bought the DDX419 and am wiring it up with the Metra wiring harness from best buy, I have a shaker 1000 system. So on the bigger and on the smaller harness there are blue wires, 2 blue wires with white stripes on the small one, and a solid blue and blue with a white stripe on the big one, I'm just unsure where these go. On the radio end there is only 4 wires left after wiring everything else together, mute, steering control, ant cont, and p cont. below is a picture of what the wiring harnesses look like that I have. Sorry for being such a noob
http://www.govgroup.com/images_products/2212498_big.jpg
Also do I need a 5v regulator too? I saw that in one of the threads I was looking at.
Thanks
http://www.govgroup.com/images_products/2212498_big.jpg
Also do I need a 5v regulator too? I saw that in one of the threads I was looking at.
Thanks
#2
Ah, so I found that blue/white is turn amp on and blue is power antenna... So I think I connect the blue/white wires from the smaller harness to the bigger one all together, can anyone confirm?
#3
https://mustangforums.com/forum/audi...w-avic-d3.html
Last edited by wayne613; 05-31-2012 at 03:43 AM.
#4
Got the regulator and everything in but having problems, it seems the amp isnt turning on because the subs don't work. In that guide it looks like he takes the radio end of the harness and the smaller harness and puts them on their respected ends of the regulator. There is also a blue/white wire on the bigger harness that plugs into the car end, is this supposed to go somewhere? which side of the regulator if so?
Thanks
Thanks
#5
There should be a diagram on the packaging for the regulator. One side (as the guide I linked shows) is for the 12v input, which would be from the remote amp turn-on of the head-unit (this delays trying to start the amps before the head-unit audio is initialized) avoiding any additional funky noises. The middle is ground, the other end is the regulated 5v line output to the 2 wires on the 8pin harness that turn on the factory amps(4 of them for the 1000, but only 2 turn-on wires).
The outside of that regulator backing is often charged, so make sure it's encased in heat-shrink tubing as well, or at the very least wrapped in electrical tape, zip-tied, and secured properly.
Don't go solely by this or the guide linked. View the packaging for the correct wires to use and match up for both the regulator and the 2 wiring harness adapters to the head-unit. Colors won't always be the same. And the above picture may not be valid for the regulator you purchased.
The outside of that regulator backing is often charged, so make sure it's encased in heat-shrink tubing as well, or at the very least wrapped in electrical tape, zip-tied, and secured properly.
Don't go solely by this or the guide linked. View the packaging for the correct wires to use and match up for both the regulator and the 2 wiring harness adapters to the head-unit. Colors won't always be the same. And the above picture may not be valid for the regulator you purchased.
Last edited by wayne613; 05-31-2012 at 04:55 PM.
#6
To clarify:
You will likely have a couple of unused connections from the head-unit, and possibly 1 or 2 wires in the main 24pin harness adapter that will go unused.
Best method is to use a molex pin tool to release the metal tab holding the ones in the harness adapter that go unused(very small glasses repair screwdrivers work great as well). Then for the head-unit's unused wires, to snip exposed ends, then [electrical] tape, and zip-tie those(so tape does not unravel or slide off over time). As you might wish to move/sell or add something later that might require one of the currently unused ones from the head-unit.
You will likely have a couple of unused connections from the head-unit, and possibly 1 or 2 wires in the main 24pin harness adapter that will go unused.
Best method is to use a molex pin tool to release the metal tab holding the ones in the harness adapter that go unused(very small glasses repair screwdrivers work great as well). Then for the head-unit's unused wires, to snip exposed ends, then [electrical] tape, and zip-tie those(so tape does not unravel or slide off over time). As you might wish to move/sell or add something later that might require one of the currently unused ones from the head-unit.
Last edited by wayne613; 05-31-2012 at 04:59 PM.
#7
Yeah I got the amps working I think I just had a faulty or wrong regulator, but then the CD drive got stuck and wouldn't work right so i brought it to best buy and they replaced it because they couldn't fix it. Then the new one I got the touch screen wouldn't work... and of course it was the last one they had so now I am radioless unless I put the old one back in. had a long day, going to go look for a new radio tomorrow
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