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Old 12-03-2012, 10:27 PM
  #21  
steel pony
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Originally Posted by Jeffk
I always thought you put the sealer on after you had done your paint correction?
Not with the newer stuff...the polymers and resins actually bind with the clear coat and will pretty much hide every minor imperfections, so you will want it at the base level of the clear coat, then build your layers after that...feel free to correct me if i'm wrong...

Process i used:
Clay>>sealant>>polish>>wax>>polish>>wax>>polish>>w ax>>finishing wax
6 months later and swirls are at a minimum, driven every day and washed at least every 2 weeks
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:03 PM
  #22  
Poppacapp
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Originally Posted by steel pony
Not with the newer stuff...the polymers and resins actually bind with the clear coat and will pretty much hide every minor imperfections, so you will want it at the base level of the clear coat, then build your layers after that...feel free to correct me if i'm wrong...

Process i used:
Clay>>sealant>>polish>>wax>>polish>>wax>>polish>>w ax>>finishing wax
6 months later and swirls are at a minimum, driven every day and washed at least every 2 weeks

Good info.. one thing I have never been an expert on is auto detailing. Almost like I am in school again trying to learn this stuff
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:19 PM
  #23  
kzonts
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My car is at the point where I need to paint the hood, fenders and the front bumper. 48k of daily driving is taking it's toll. It's almost starting to look like it was sand blasted. :-( That's an exaggeration, but you get the point.
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:52 PM
  #24  
Poppacapp
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I have considered doing a complete 3m Clearbra on the hood, fenders, bumper and mirrors. Will probably completely wrap them so I have no break line showing.
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:42 PM
  #25  
kzonts
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Originally Posted by Poppacapp
I have considered doing a complete 3m Clearbra on the hood, fenders, bumper and mirrors. Will probably completely wrap them so I have no break line showing.
That might be a good option. However, won't that eventually show the same wear? I guess it may be the better option. Just re-wrap it when it starts to look bad.
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Old 12-04-2012, 06:59 PM
  #26  
alan0614
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That is the advantage of the clear bras, if they start looking bad just redo them.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:29 PM
  #27  
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Yeah, I think overall they are a good investment. But like I mentioned, you would want to have the whole panel covered so the bra can wrap around the edges and not show any lines.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:13 PM
  #28  
steel pony
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Originally Posted by Poppacapp
I have considered doing a complete 3m Clearbra on the hood, fenders, bumper and mirrors. Will probably completely wrap them so I have no break line showing.
I know someone who can do this for you!
He did an outstanding job on mine (Avery Vinyl) and now carries a product half as thin as the garbage 3M stuff.
It's actually self-healing...did it myself with test patches...scratched it with a wire brush, pour warm water over it...dry and it heals...no scratches!!

Stay away from the 3M film for clearbras. It's very thick (compared to others) and has a nasty tendency to yellow
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:19 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by steel pony
I know someone who can do this for you!
He did an outstanding job on mine (Avery Vinyl) and now carries a product half as thin as the garbage 3M stuff.
It's actually self-healing...did it myself with test patches...scratched it with a wire brush, pour warm water over it...dry and it heals...no scratches!!

Stay away from the 3M film for clearbras. It's very thick (compared to others) and has a nasty tendency to yellow
I had the 3M on a couple previous vehicles of mine.. seemed like good product, but was a little thick, and didn't like the "break" line.. which is why I would go full coverage next time. Would like to do a full front setup, but I assume that would be $1000+, which right now I am allocating to the "garage fund"
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