radiator ??
#1
radiator ??
ok, i know this has been asked a hundred times but i think i want a new aluminum rad...this car is a 65 vert roller 351W tri power probably in the range of 400hp give or take. i don't mind over-kill.. but i'm really confused on the crossflow vrs downflow deal! does the crossflow really cool that much better.. and then now theres the dual pass alum thats suppost to be great ?? now i'm one of those that likes to here from the guy that has the rad in his/her car that works awsome..yes the price is important too but i really like to buy one time and be done, and don't mind if i need to mod the core support some! so what do you guys have that never runs hot on summer days with the ac blasting ??? how much hp do you really loose by useing a belt fan vrs a elec fan anyways....thanks for your opinions.
#2
67 mustang OEM 390 bbf radiator works great on 351W; don't know if you can stuff it in a 65-66.
Aluminum radiator prone to electrolysis corrosion but is more efficient.
Don't loose much HP w/ belt fan unless on dyno w/ low air flow and high RPM.
Aluminum radiator prone to electrolysis corrosion but is more efficient.
Don't loose much HP w/ belt fan unless on dyno w/ low air flow and high RPM.
#3
Hey JG, I'm up in Sacramento with its 100+ degree summers. This car has a very built 351W and ran hot. I did four things:
A big 2 core aluminium radiator
six blade fan
full shroud
correct spacer
As far as brand, if you want the best, get griffen. I got a China made and the quality wasn't the best. but it did the job.
Car never got hot, even on a summer day.
A big 2 core aluminium radiator
six blade fan
full shroud
correct spacer
As far as brand, if you want the best, get griffen. I got a China made and the quality wasn't the best. but it did the job.
Car never got hot, even on a summer day.
#4
First, read this page. That'll get you going in the right direction.
Crossflows are nice because they force the coolant to flow from one corner of the radiator to the opposite corner before being pulled back into the engine. They are more efficient than downflows, although they're not always necessary.
I'm looking at getting a $200 aluminum job off ebay, one of the ones with the big tubes. A lot of the chinese units have small 2x1" tube cores, which don't actually increase cooling surface area vs a good brass/copper unit.
Crossflows are nice because they force the coolant to flow from one corner of the radiator to the opposite corner before being pulled back into the engine. They are more efficient than downflows, although they're not always necessary.
I'm looking at getting a $200 aluminum job off ebay, one of the ones with the big tubes. A lot of the chinese units have small 2x1" tube cores, which don't actually increase cooling surface area vs a good brass/copper unit.
#5
I run a norther direct fit for 1966 mustang I have a 302 and live in central ca. The norther radiator has always put foot to *** even in 110 deg weather but Im not sure it would still provide the cooling needed for a larger engine nor do I have AC...I cant say if this same radiator would meet your needs but have a look at their site. http://www.northernfactory.com/
I also run the flexalite black magic electric fan. I consider this one of the top 5 best upgrades for these classics cars. I daily drive my mustang around town or on medium distance trips (80 miles one way) hell I even drove it almost to Sacramento (Clarksberg) last month. That was about a 3.5hr trip during that entire drive guess how long the fan was running for? Yep zero minutes I dont think it came on until I arrived at my destination and made a call with the engine idling.
Now while I agree that you wont feel a noticeable HP improvement I still think its the dumbest thing ever to spin that 4 blade 30 (or something ridiculous) degree pitch fan at 2450+ rpm for 3.5 hrs while it does precisely jack **** during that entire duration. Im not sure the exact Hp draw that it pulls at those RPM but I do know that the work provided to spin that fan is exactly a 100% waste and that adds up over time.
the electric fans cut back on noise as well the car is actually quieter as you don't hear any fan noise...unless the fan actually comes on in city traffic or something. Some will say that the electric fan is of no gain because it takes equal HP to generate the electricity to spin the fan...well maybe it is close but did you already forget the story I told you about how much time the fan spent running during the trip to Sac?
-Gun
I also run the flexalite black magic electric fan. I consider this one of the top 5 best upgrades for these classics cars. I daily drive my mustang around town or on medium distance trips (80 miles one way) hell I even drove it almost to Sacramento (Clarksberg) last month. That was about a 3.5hr trip during that entire drive guess how long the fan was running for? Yep zero minutes I dont think it came on until I arrived at my destination and made a call with the engine idling.
Now while I agree that you wont feel a noticeable HP improvement I still think its the dumbest thing ever to spin that 4 blade 30 (or something ridiculous) degree pitch fan at 2450+ rpm for 3.5 hrs while it does precisely jack **** during that entire duration. Im not sure the exact Hp draw that it pulls at those RPM but I do know that the work provided to spin that fan is exactly a 100% waste and that adds up over time.
the electric fans cut back on noise as well the car is actually quieter as you don't hear any fan noise...unless the fan actually comes on in city traffic or something. Some will say that the electric fan is of no gain because it takes equal HP to generate the electricity to spin the fan...well maybe it is close but did you already forget the story I told you about how much time the fan spent running during the trip to Sac?
-Gun
#6
Hey Gun,
I agree with you. By design the fan is not needed when the car is in motion, it is meant to draw air when sitting idle or the not moving fast enough.
The decision probably depends on the look you want and one of cost vs. benefit items. Do you want to spend $250 on a fan, install the wiring, sensors, switches etc, or a $50 fan blade that bolts in.
I agree with you. By design the fan is not needed when the car is in motion, it is meant to draw air when sitting idle or the not moving fast enough.
The decision probably depends on the look you want and one of cost vs. benefit items. Do you want to spend $250 on a fan, install the wiring, sensors, switches etc, or a $50 fan blade that bolts in.
#7
My 64.5 mustang has a "dumbest thing ever" OEM 4 blade fan and I like it.
Helps minimize under hood temps in stop and go.
It is quiet.
My 67 has electric fan and I hate the Honda rice sound it makes when kicks on.
I prefer clutch fan if fuel economy is big concern.
Helps minimize under hood temps in stop and go.
It is quiet.
My 67 has electric fan and I hate the Honda rice sound it makes when kicks on.
I prefer clutch fan if fuel economy is big concern.
#8
If you want an aluminum radiator get the one with the best guarantee - satisfaction or your money back - Champion Radiators - Ebay store. They cost less than a stock replacement, are well built, and will keep your car cool.
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stangin1996gt
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09-21-2015 11:01 AM