AllStar80

Here is what I have.

C4 Tranny
Small Bell Housing
302 Block
157 Tooth SFI certified 50oz. FelxPlate
Hughes 2,500 stall Torque Converter

Here is my problem!

I have 2 engine block shims in between everything and I still have no converter play!

Before you ask, yes converter is all the way back. I also made the holes in the flexplate a little bigger for the Hughes converter because it is a custom converter and the studs would snag in the holes the first couple of times and I figured thats why I had no play.

So I made the holes little bigger so converter goes on and off flexplate like butter. Put all together with " One shim plate" "No Play" backed off bolts equally til I had play in converter. Looked to me I had a space that another engine block shim would fit into. So there is a guy here in town that makes them on a laser CNC. Bought one from him $30( cheaper than you can find them anywhere else) took it home put it on along with other shim and still no damn play!

I was ferious! backed off bolts again to see how much more I need to get play. I need about another half thick shim! This is redicoulous! I took out my old flexplate and compared it the new. Did some digitail mic. measurements and found there is almost .120 of difference just in the flexplate mounting surface!

So thinking about that, don't I need just 2 shims to make up that difference and then another to get my play? If thats the case I need a .180 thick shim! What am I missing or has this happened to anyone else and I'm not on crack!

Here is what was on the old 289 block.

289 Block
260 Heads (wierd!)
260 Flexplate 28oz. (wierd!)
One Block Shim
One FlexPlate Shim
C4 Tranny

Randys66gt

K, put both flexplates on a flat surface, measure through the bolt holes, that will tell you the difference. The thickness of the plate doesnt matter. SFI's are thicker. If the measurement is the same through the holes, the converter isnt in. All the flexplate are supposed to be stamped the same shape but I've found some imported junk being off. When stamping them, they compensate for the SFI being thicker so the dimensions line up the converter properly. Remember, the input (small center shaft) the stator (thick second one) and the pump have to lock in, the 3rd 2 flat tags on the conveter. When I was at B&M, the biggest question was about the install. 3 clicks!!! Hope I helped!!

fakesnakes

Why a 50oz. flex plate do you have a newer block?

THUMPIN455

Pull the trans, pull the converter, make absolutely sure the input shaft is completely engaged. Of the three small block bellhousings that fit the C4, none of them are shorter. I have the same converter behind the Cleveland in the Cougar, it has almost half an inch of free travel before it contacts the flexplate when its shoved in completely.

You either arent engaging the input shaft, or the front pump. My guess is the input shaft. If it wasnt coming close enough to the flexplate it could possibly be the pilot diameter, but that isnt the deal.

AllStar80

Problem solved! Had to use both shims but had to start a converter nut and grab that and wiggle it back and forth to check play. Hughes torque converters are very tight tolerances so you can't wiggle the stud just with your fingers you have to put a nut on there to get a better grip.

I had everything right just needed more grasping surface because of tight tolerances.

JMD

Didn't see you mention the blockplate,,,, I am sure you have it in, but I have to ask....