wrecked the stang today
#12
I'm not 100% sure how it is for a M/S car, probably a combo of replacing a booster and master cylinder on a P/S car. You will have to first undo the master cylinder from the brake pedal, that's going to be the hardest part. Then just undo the brake lines and the bolts on the firewall and it's off. For the new one you are supposed to "bench bleed" the master cylinder to get all of the air out, but I did that when it was attached to my booster. Basically you need to thread in these plastic hose attachments into the brake line holes and attach a rubber line. You loop that rubber line back into each bowl of the master cylinder, then just push on the brakes as much as you can until all of the bubbles are gone. Once the master cylinder is bled then you attach the brake lines then simply bleed the brakes starting from the longest brake line.
#13
I have to do this too, replace my mc I have a single. A couple of times I had to refill it before pushing it back. I got the mc from my donor,(90 fox) I've read that they are interchange too. Haven't got to it yet still messing with the efi. Good thing it wasn't that bad and at a slow speed instead of in traffic. I too was fearing a uglier situation.
#14
This situation also illustrates one of the DISadvantages of not having a handbrake mounted on the tunnel. Sometimes you don't have the extra moment to find the handle. Another detail that's best left on original-restoration show cars only.
Norm
Norm
#16
He must not be use to older cars i learned you gotta test the brakes before putting it in gear and be ready to shove it in park if you feel the pedal hit the floor.I rather replace a trans then a lot of body work.Yeah all street cars should have a dual bowl its a lot safer.
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KingRando
2005-2014 Mustangs
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10-02-2015 08:06 AM