Reasonably Priced 1966 Disc Brake Kit
#2
#4
I strongly recommend the Swap.1 kit. I put this same kit on my car last year and I love it. Good quality, and the kit comes with everything you need for install except new hardlines and brake fluid. It's a bolt-on kit with your existing V8 drum spindles, so you don't even need to remove the ball joints. Best of all, the parts are all OE. This means you can walk into any parts store and buy pads, rotors, bearings, and seals for your specific car, rather than rotors from a ranger, pads from an S10, etc.
Stopping power is very good. I drive my car hard occasionally on country roads and I've never run into fade problems. I don't even think you need a power booster, but I'll leave that up to you to decide.
Stopping power is very good. I drive my car hard occasionally on country roads and I've never run into fade problems. I don't even think you need a power booster, but I'll leave that up to you to decide.
#5
http://discbrakeswap.com/
Can not go wrong with the kits CSRP puts out.
Complete, high quality, great instructions (you can see them on the website) and Dennis (Owner) is an email or phone call away and answers questions promptly.
Can not go wrong with the kits CSRP puts out.
Complete, high quality, great instructions (you can see them on the website) and Dennis (Owner) is an email or phone call away and answers questions promptly.
#7
Because they're a PITA. IMO, you're much better off bending your own. Prefab brake and fuel lines don't always fit perfect, resulting in more time spent trying to make them fit than you would've spent bending all new ones. Not to mention, straight brake line is dirt cheap.
I fabbed up new lines for the front of my car when I did the swap, including new lines from the m/c to the combo block. It's slightly time consuming, but with the right tools it's very easy. The new lines actually fit better than the originals I pulled off.
I fabbed up new lines for the front of my car when I did the swap, including new lines from the m/c to the combo block. It's slightly time consuming, but with the right tools it's very easy. The new lines actually fit better than the originals I pulled off.
#8
-There are several applications; Mustang has 65-66, 67-68, 69-70, and 71-73. All of these have Manual or power applications. Then there are Falcon, Fairlane, ... as well as Mustang.
-In order to offer them at reasonable cost, we would need to order them in 1000 ea quantities.
-As said below, the fit from car to car is problematic.
We will eventually include a set for the common applications. The pieces for the 65-66 manual application are currently in production.
We could include a set of straight pieces for the user to bend, but in practice, most people will use up a lot more tubing than is absolutely necessary overcoming the learning curve involved in getting the bends and the flares right.
I recommend that installers buy a decent flare tool, a tube cutter, and a basic bend tool and practice. Even the hydraulic type flare tool that I own, that will make a good flare every time, requires practice to perfect the flaring technique.
I'll consider including a coil of tubing and an assortment of tube nuts with every kit.
#9
Thanks for your feedback. The plumbing of the master cylinder and the proportioning valve is probably the most challenging mechanical task encountered in installing the brake conversion. That said, there are several reasons why we don't offer pre-made brake lines with the kit.
-There are several applications; Mustang has 65-66, 67-68, 69-70, and 71-73. All of these have Manual or power applications. Then there are Falcon, Fairlane, ... as well as Mustang.
-In order to offer them at reasonable cost, we would need to order them in 1000 ea quantities.
-As said below, the fit from car to car is problematic.
We will eventually include a set for the common applications. The pieces for the 65-66 manual application are currently in production.
We could include a set of straight pieces for the user to bend, but in practice, most people will use up a lot more tubing than is absolutely necessary overcoming the learning curve involved in getting the bends and the flares right.
I recommend that installers buy a decent flare tool, a tube cutter, and a basic bend tool and practice. Even the hydraulic type flare tool that I own, that will make a good flare every time, requires practice to perfect the flaring technique.
I'll consider including a coil of tubing and an assortment of tube nuts with every kit.
-There are several applications; Mustang has 65-66, 67-68, 69-70, and 71-73. All of these have Manual or power applications. Then there are Falcon, Fairlane, ... as well as Mustang.
-In order to offer them at reasonable cost, we would need to order them in 1000 ea quantities.
-As said below, the fit from car to car is problematic.
We will eventually include a set for the common applications. The pieces for the 65-66 manual application are currently in production.
We could include a set of straight pieces for the user to bend, but in practice, most people will use up a lot more tubing than is absolutely necessary overcoming the learning curve involved in getting the bends and the flares right.
I recommend that installers buy a decent flare tool, a tube cutter, and a basic bend tool and practice. Even the hydraulic type flare tool that I own, that will make a good flare every time, requires practice to perfect the flaring technique.
I'll consider including a coil of tubing and an assortment of tube nuts with every kit.
I used your kit and would recommend it to anyone. It is the best priced kit I have found.
The proportioning valve mounting and plumbing was the worst part. I ended up making a bracket to mount the prop. valve on.
Only issues I had were that I had to buy one fitting and my kit didn't come with a push rod for the master cylinder
Last edited by dcohen; 12-12-2009 at 02:12 AM.
#10