Mystang66

I'm putting a rebuilt 289 out of a 1964 1/2 in my 1967 restoration project. The engine has been bored out 30 over and the crank turned 10.10. I am adding a stealth intake, Holley 600 carb, GT 40 heads and Hedman 88300 headers.

A friend has some parts he didn't use during his rebuild and I was wondering if they would be a good fit for me. He has a brand new in the box Clevite Camshaft # 229-1601 Hydraulic camshaft, and also new in the box Clevite # 213-1667 lifters (16). One concern when I look up the lifters in it says "marine" lifters?

I'll be adding a performance distributor, probably Pertronix and flame thrower ignitor as well. I will also be upgrading the generator to a single wire altrnator.

Any other ideas/suggestions about my setup taking into account I am on a tight budget?

This is intended to be a very nice, fun driver, nothing more.

MustangFTW

i think those are the same lifters i have in my 67, the cam seems to be really close to stock?

2+2GT

A marine hydraulic lifter should be an anti pump-up type, since it is normal for a boat engine to run at 5000+ rpm for long periods of time. This would be nice on a car, even though it'll only do that for a few seconds here and there.

67mustang302

Call Ed Curtis at Flowtech and have him grind you a hyd roller cam, and get a lifter and valvetrain package from him.

If you're concerned about performance at least.

frdnut

I guess you missed the "tight budget part"..

eZ

YAH READ THE WHOLE POST YOU FREAKIN IDIOT!!! GOSH!! - 67mustang302 - ha ha ha

OCHOHILL

The Clevite cam your buddy has is probably the same cam in the 289. The valve springs in the GT40 heads will be stiffer than the 289 springs. If the engine is rebuilt and running well I wouldn't touch it on a tight budget. How much more will the GT40 heads flow at only .38 lift? Not enought to cover the head gaskets in my opinion.

If you are determined to tear into it I would:

link bar roller lifters-spendiest item in the list but reuseable down the road
used stock HO cam
used cobra 1.7 pedestal rockers
new valve spring kit if old ones didn't match required specs
head gaskets
home port the gt40's

All this might be $600-$700.

Or you can buy a used HO shortblock and swap the heads for about the same price.

stephen.osborne1

While you have the motor apart (top end anyway) you should think about a new water pump, and if the motor is out of the car and easily accessible, maybe a new oil pump and one piece oil pan gasket... The gasket can run about 50 bucks but is WELL worth the effort for no more leaks. My 2cents.

mr_velocity

Other than my 302, the only motors I've built have gone into boats. "Marine" parts are built for extreme duty since the motors are run at full load 100% of the time. Most guys that build car motors find their combinations grenade in a boat in very short time.

If the cam grind is for a boat then it will have tons of low end torque, boat motors are all about torque (think of your car as only having 1 gear, the highest gear). In a car it probably won't be optimal unless you plan on pulling tree stumps out.

Mystang66

Ok, here is the setup I have gone with and need advice on the cam. I have a rebuilt 289 out of a 1964 1/2 in my 1967 restoration project. The engine has been bored out 30 over and the crank turned 10.10. I have a Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock performer (500cfm) carb, rebuilt GT 40 heads with Ford Racing 1.6 roller rockers and Hedman 88300 long tube headers.

I'll be adding an Summit Racing aluminum high volume water pump, and Tuff Stuff 1 wire alternator.

I am now looking at cam and lifter replacement and am wondering if the Edelbrock Performer Plus hydraulic cam and lifter kit would be a good fit?

Again, I'm just building a fun daily driver.