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Getting ready to need a rust encapsulator, paint, proofer. All the rage POR 15. But, reviews show Rust Bullet better. Prices are the same but POR requires more prep...in theory. Looking for test subjects who have had experience with either. I was all gung ho about POR 15, but I am leaning to Rust Bullet now. Comments...

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Soaring

Read the active ingredients, and compare those to POR 15. There should be no prep. You just put the encapsulator on raw rust. It works better that way.

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POR too? No prep I mean. I read all this stuff about Marine Clean, Metal Prep, then POR. The others say nothing of the like. If POR straight on works without fail, that's a plus.

351foxstang

i haven't used any of these products, but have a question of my own.

does a product like por-15 actually get rid of the rust or just stops it from growing and getting worse?

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It stops it. Rust converter changes rust chemically to a primer type product. Others like POR, Eastwood, and Rust Bullet are encapsulator, which permanently seals out moisture preventing rust from spreading and new from coming. Supposidly, even when scratched either will only rust at the scratch and not grow.

atomsk680

i JUST ordered a kit of POR-15 about 2 hours ago. it was $16 fo the kit, $7 for shipping, it came with some POR-15, enough to cover 12 square feet, and some marine cleaner, gloves and brushes. after i get this wheelwell hole patched up, im gunna do the entire floorpan with this POR-15, and if anything left, ill do the trunk too.

351foxstang

so i could just use a rust converter on the metal after i wire wheel/sandblast it and then just spray it with a good primer sealer? ive always been a bit weary of leaving rust on the car, especially on places i hope to never see again.

thanks for your help.

grocery getter

i'm using the por-15 products. as far as I know the converter is basically phosphoric acid (you could probably pour coca-cola on it and have it work) it wasn't too pricey.

time will tell how good it works .

coda618

Hello,
I have owned an autobody shop and have doennumerous rust repairs. I personally use por-15. Of not is that on the can itself, it specifically indicates that it is for seasoned or rusted metal. This product chemically bonds with the rust. that being said, the original poster asks about prep and marine clean, metal prep etc.

While you may use por 15 directly on rusted metal, prep is always better. However, you do not have to remove all the rust.

I first wire wheel or sand the rusted area. Don't go crzy, just get off the loose and heavy stuff. Thenthye recomend the marine clean, which is really a standard cleaner degreaser. I have used that, but I went back to using laquer thinner. Its cheaper and does the same thing, that is it wioes away grease, dirt etc. Which you always want to do befor applying any top coat.

The next stage they recomend is the metal prep. As mentioned above, this chemically disolves rust and leaves a layer of phosphate on the metal which is an excellent base for top coat. it bonds with the metal and give the por 15 an excellent surface to bond to. If cos is a factor, this product is essentially the same as "Phosphate Plus" available at home depot, but it is the same price for a two gallon as for a qt of metal prep.

After these prep stages I apply the por 15 with a sponge brush. Two coats. make sure you wait the appropriate time between coats. Then I use the "tie coat" primer by por 15, which they say is made specifically to bond to por 15 and provides and excellent adhesion for any top coat. I use two coats. Don't sand between coats per instructions. Sand after second coat to get out any imperfection etc. Oh, and another note, even though you apply both with a brush or sponge, I have found that the sponge leaves little to no brush marks and that the tie coat primer sands out any nicely. If there is any additional filling that needs to be done, such as pitting etc, i use a little body puddy after the Tie coat primer and then prime everything again with a coat of regular primer sealer before the top coat.

So to answer your question, Por 15 wil work on rusted metal with minimum prep, but the quality of any job is mostly in the prep, so the extra steps are well worth the effort for a quality job that will last for years.

I have had no rust return in the areas I have used the above procedures on.
Good luck!

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I should add, I am mainly talking about using these products on the interior pans and trunk as well as undercarriage and frame. My body will be down to bare metal and then I plan on epoxy primer. I had not considered using POR or RB on the body, only structure and trunk/interior. Do you actually use this on the body as a prep to the topcoat and final painting? Interesting. My process is epoxy primer, sealer, base coat and clear. HOK products. Thanks for the additional info. More more more...??? Done plenty of painting as it is my business. New to total restoration. Compounding kowledge and experience to a new level! Thanks again!