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Roller Cams; what's the deal?
I am always looking for ways to add hp to my 302 and since I can't afford a paxton s/c, I was wondering what sort of gains I could get from adding a roller cam. However I really don't know much about them and what to expect. Would I want to change to roller rockers too? What sort of hp increase would there be on a 350rwhp engine after the addition ofa roller setup? What other benefits are there? Why is the sky blue?
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RE: Roller Cams; what's the deal?
sky is blue cause of the reflection of all the water on our planet
a roller setup would make your engine run alot more efficient, meaning more HP and possibly more fuel efficiency. but you just cant put a roller cam in there, you also need the lifters and guideplates for the pushrods and lifters. and roller tips, i believe also need a guideplate. someone correct me if im wrong. i kinda wish i had gone roller now also your distributor looks wierd, did you change the firing order? |
RE: Roller Cams; what's the deal?
Basically a roller cam has more agressive lobe profiles. On a flat tappet the lobe can only accelerate the valve open/close so quickly because if the lobe becomes too agressive(the flank is too steep)the edge of the lifter and the lobe can "snag" and eat each other up. Enter the roller. By switching to a lifter with a roller on the end of it, not only is friction all but eliminated between the cam and lifter, but there is now a roller rather than an "edge" at the bottom of the lifter. That allows a cam to have a MUCH more agressive lobe that can accelerate the valve to a higher lift sooner, hold it there longer, and close it more quickly, all with pretty much no friction and with no risk of the lifter and cam snagging each other. A roller cam will esentially allow you to run the same overall duration and lift but have a cam that moves a lot more air, and consequently make much more power in the same rpm range with a cam that has less duration and better street manners, or a cam with the same profile and street manners but more power and rpm. Comp and Crane etc make conversion kits, where you get a cam that fits in the cam bearing bores of a non roller block but uses a different style than factory roller lifter. You'd need to get different pushrods/lifters/cam for sure, and they're usually not cheap(conversion kits), and roller rockers are not necessary but are a definate plus for performance. As far as guideplates, that depends. Ford's pedestal mount don't need guideplates, stud mounts do.
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RE: Roller Cams; what's the deal?
I've currently got a Comp cam in mine (.544 and .286 @ .050)with 351W heads and Erson roller rockers. Great setup with a little over 350hp. The only problem I have is thecam is too aggressive. I have a new Lunati that is .494 and .224 @ .050 which should drop the HP a little but make the engine run much better.
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RE: Roller Cams; what's the deal?
ORIGINAL: atomsk680 sky is blue cause of the reflection of all the water on our planet http://www.sciencemadesimple.com/sky_blue.html |
RE: Roller Cams; what's the deal?
That's why the sky changes color depending on orientation of the sun, more or less gas in the atmosphere to pass through changes the level of electromagnetic filtration. ;)
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RE: Roller Cams; what's the deal?
atomsk680 no did not change the firing order, not sure why it looks weird.
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RE: Roller Cams; what's the deal?
ORIGINAL: 67mustang302 Basically a roller cam has more agressive lobe profiles. On a flat tappet the lobe can only accelerate the valve open/close so quickly because if the lobe becomes too agressive(the flank is too steep)the edge of the lifter and the lobe can "snag" and eat each other up. Enter the roller. By switching to a lifter with a roller on the end of it, not only is friction all but eliminated between the cam and lifter, but there is now a roller rather than an "edge" at the bottom of the lifter. That allows a cam to have a MUCH more agressive lobe that can accelerate the valve to a higher lift sooner, hold it there longer, and close it more quickly, all with pretty much no friction and with no risk of the lifter and cam snagging each other. A roller cam will esentially allow you to run the same overall duration and lift but have a cam that moves a lot more air, and consequently make much more power in the same rpm range with a cam that has less duration and better street manners, or a cam with the same profile and street manners but more power and rpm. Comp and Crane etc make conversion kits, where you get a cam that fits in the cam bearing bores of a non roller block but uses a different style than factory roller lifter. You'd need to get different pushrods/lifters/cam for sure, and they're usually not cheap(conversion kits), and roller rockers are not necessary but are a definate plus for performance. As far as guideplates, that depends. Ford's pedestal mount don't need guideplates, stud mounts do. |
RE: Roller Cams; what's the deal?
ORIGINAL: 67mustang302 Basically a roller cam has more agressive lobe profiles. On a flat tappet the lobe can only accelerate the valve open/close so quickly because if the lobe becomes too agressive(the flank is too steep)the edge of the lifter and the lobe can "snag" and eat each other up. Enter the roller. By switching to a lifter with a roller on the end of it, not only is friction all but eliminated between the cam and lifter, but there is now a roller rather than an "edge" at the bottom of the lifter. That allows a cam to have a MUCH more agressive lobe that can accelerate the valve to a higher lift sooner, hold it there longer, and close it more quickly, all with pretty much no friction and with no risk of the lifter and cam snagging each other. A roller cam will esentially allow you to run the same overall duration and lift but have a cam that moves a lot more air, and consequently make much more power in the same rpm range with a cam that has less duration and better street manners, or a cam with the same profile and street manners but more power and rpm. Comp and Crane etc make conversion kits, where you get a cam that fits in the cam bearing bores of a non roller block but uses a different style than factory roller lifter. You'd need to get different pushrods/lifters/cam for sure, and they're usually not cheap(conversion kits), and roller rockers are not necessary but are a definate plus for performance. As far as guideplates, that depends. Ford's pedestal mount don't need guideplates, stud mounts do. |
RE: Roller Cams; what's the deal?
Yes and most likely. You can change a cam/lifters/pushrods with the engine in the car(thought you might find it easier to pull the engine depending on how you're set up), and for the retrofit roller lifters, the way they're designed you usually have to take the heads off because they're too tall to fit in the lifter bore with the heads on from what I understand. There may be retro fit lifters that will fit, I dunno, I have a factory roller block and use oem style cam/lifters, not a retro fit. Might want to look around at what the different companies offer and see what all is available, I dunno for certain.
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