289 roller lifter/cam mod question
 

I have a 65 fastback that I am rebuilding. I got the Comp Cam retrofit lifters...they are the style that has the "spider" and retainers...Any opinions? I am also installing AFR heads, new intake and 650 Holley...Comp Cams says it's good for 6300 RPM...Is this a decent set-up? Will it be reliable? Salesman said this style is based on later model stock engines..

RE: 289 roller lifter/cam mod question
 

I'm assuming the 650 is a double-pumper. If I were you I'd invest in a STEEL main girdle. I recommend steel because of the thermal expansion rate difference between cast-iron and aluminum. Something like 4 times more for aluminum than iron. If you could locate some BOSS-302 rods (beefed-up hi-po 289 units)you could probably rev it to 7500 all day long. You didn't say which intake. I really like the original Cobra (Edelbrock F4B) with a 1" open phenolic spacer.

RE: 289 roller lifter/cam mod question
 

Thanks Mike...I will check into the push rods..and you're correct, 650 double pumper, Wiand intake. I'll do thae same for the girdle. I was told to be cautious about lifter "chatter" over 6300 RPM...know anything about that?

RE: 289 roller lifter/cam mod question
 

Turning high rpm with hydraulic roller cams is more likely to cause valve float because the cams ramp rates are far more agressive and the valve train is heavier. That being said, I have a similar setup, AFR 165's, a smaller cam and carb, Wieand intake. It routinely turns 6,000rpm and has no problems. I'm also running a steel girdle, and the only things stock are the block and crank. I'm using Comp's new Beehive springs as well. AFR's basic spring package is not what you want for a healthy roller cam, though I've heard they have fixed this in the newer heads. Just make sure you have the right springs for your cam.

RE: 289 roller lifter/cam mod question
 

My heads did come with the upgraded springs. My big question is the retainer set-up. It is the type tha thas the "spider" and little links to maintain thei position. Is this the type set up you have, and are you comfortable with it?

RE: 289 roller lifter/cam mod question
 

Weused the spider setup on my son's 408, had some reservations as well, but it seems to be ok with zero miles on it...

Be carefull drilling the holes for the hold down bolts, they are directly over the cam bearings,,,, I think I drilled them to.30 deep on the 351 block, and this was damn close to the cam bearing...

RE: 289 roller lifter/cam mod question
 

Whatever roller lifter retainer setup you have is irrelevant. The factory style spider spring and link bar is for something that has a place to screw the retainter to in the lifter valley, the paired lifters in the retro conversion kits accomplish the same thing, but for a lifter valley you can't screw the spider spring to. They're not under a load, they just keep the lifters from rotating. I'm using a factory block so I have the Ford Racing spring/link bar setup, it works fine. Better rods wouldn't hurt. Scat has some forged lightweight i-beams with floating wrist pins for under $200, with ARP bolts. It's good insurance if you wanna turn rpm frequently.

RE: 289 roller lifter/cam mod question
 

That is exactly the set-up I have...thanks for the input. I'm glad you mentioned the drill depth. It seems the rear hole location is on a casting mark. Did you have one, and did you grind it flush?

RE: 289 roller lifter/cam mod question
 

you do know you have to use a small base circle cam with that setup.........? what heads and what cam?

RE: 289 roller lifter/cam mod question
 

if you end up with stock rods you need to at least get the GOOD arp rold bolts. they are like 95.00 from summit, drop them off with your rods at the machine shop for reconditioning and installation.

everything else sounds ok from what i hear, it'll be a nice lil screamer