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408 windsor question
how much would i cost meto machine a 351 windsor to a 408?
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RE: 408 windsor question
as much as it would cost them to remachine your block for a 351 rebuild. the difference is in the rotating assembly, and you can purchase crank/rods/pistons/rings/bearings for like 1000 bucks. you MAY have to notch the bottom of the cylinders to let the rods clear with a stroker, but any guy with a die grinder or dremel tool can accomplish that
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RE: 408 windsor question
ORIGINAL: Mustang. how much would i cost meto machine a 351 windsor to a 408? If you use I beam rods you will need to make clearance notches on the bottom of the cylinders. When I installed the stroker crank in our 351, I requested a "tool" (free) that will show exactly where to grind the cylinders out for clearance. I used a die grinder and it took about an hour to do all 8. Once I started assembling the bottom end, I discovered that I didn't need to clearance the block,,, duh... but it was easy.... :D:D |
RE: 408 windsor question
its always better to be sure than to regret it later though.... when you do to to a 408 i would reccommend that you get all forged, and im about 100% sure everyone else will too. also go with the H beam rods they are stronger than the I beam.
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RE: 408 windsor question
you only need to go top end parts if your building a motor that requires those kinda parts to hold up. the "normal" stroker crank and I beam rods are more than enough for most streetable builds. forged pistons are a worthy investment though, so theres one area i'd rather pay a little extra for if i was building a stroker.
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RE: 408 windsor question
i know i will have to buy a crank, ect. (i plan on getting a kit from the same place as JMD, he gave a link on another post). but if i understand you guys right i don't even need to take it to a machine shop? should i get I beam rods or H?
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RE: 408 windsor question
ORIGINAL: Mustang. i know i will have to buy a crank, ect. (i plan on getting a kit from the same place as JMD, he gave a link on another post). but if i understand you guys right i don't even need to take it to a machine shop? should i get I beam rods or H? You will also need to have the block deck surface cleaned up, and possibly the crank line honed. All of this is standard stuff and is inexpensive. H or I? We went with H beams, but they are probably overkill, I beams will work fine, but then again, they are not really that expensive these days... |
RE: 408 windsor question
i don't plan on stroking some old crappy motor. i am going to buy a rebuilt 351w short block (which will be basicly brand new), and i plan on stroking that. how does that sound?
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RE: 408 windsor question
sounds like your paying for a motor twice. the same machine work that would be done to a rebuilt short block would be the same machine work you'd be doing if you started with a used, tired old 351. if you can find a later model roller block that would be best, but the earlier blocks had thicker main webs and a higher nickel content. plus, you need the cylinders bored and honed to YOUR pistons, so if you bought a short block you'd most likely be paying to get the cylinders touch honed again anyways
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RE: 408 windsor question
ORIGINAL: my77stang sounds like your paying for a motor twice. the same machine work that would be done to a rebuilt short block would be the same machine work you'd be doing if you started with a used, tired old 351. if you can find a later model roller block that would be best, but the earlier blocks had thicker main webs and a higher nickel content. plus, you need the cylinders bored and honed to YOUR pistons, so if you bought a short block you'd most likely be paying to get the cylinders touch honed again anyways What he said,,,,, |
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