scuf23

Well, one guy that I work with brought me to one of his buddies yesterday and we looked at a 67 Shelby GT350 project car - I am attaching a couple of pictures (sorry for teh quality, taken with cell phone)

My biggest question is how do you differentiate a clone from an original?

Here is what I know / found:
- No power steering
- No power brakes
- No disc front brakes
- Engine and transmission not original
- GT 350 Rims
- GT 350 signs on the front
- GT 350 scoops
- GT 350 roll bar
- Shelby tag in the engine compartment with number consistent to SAAC coding but not ran against the SAAC database
- Subframe connectors
- Rear traction bar

So I kind of tend to think clone but some of the original mandatory options could have been taken off the car too!

Advices?

Thanks!


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scuf23

Additional pictures

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scuf23

Last one

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Mr. Classic EFI

Clone,...No front discs, is the easy indicator. Rear valance is wrong. Want to really know?? Pull the "Shelby ID Tag", check the real VIN uderneath.
Not that they couldent be on any car, but the COBRA valve covers, are the more modern "Tall" version.

valley firearms

While I'm not an expert on Shelby's, I am a huge fan. There are many ways to tell but it depends on how good the clone is. All the shelbys had power brakes. They all had front disk brakes. They all had one piece export braces. They all had heavier front sway bars and 3/4" rear sway bars. They would have Traction Master Under ride traction bars. There are also a lot of details in the interior. This is where a person skimps when they are cloneing. Does it have the roll bar? Is there a 140mph speedo and a factory tach or gauge pod? Also, reproduction fiberglass is made differnetly than the original. Not to say this car was not cloned 30 years ago with factory shelby panels. Panel bracketry is also a tell tell sign.There are many ways to tell but number don't lie like Mr. Classic EFI stated. Is this guy trying to sell the car to you?
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valley firearms

For your viewing pleasure

http://www.nvsaac.com/gallery/1967_GT350_main.htm
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scuf23

I am going back later on this week to double check it - my goal will be to get the Ford Vin number and then run a check with SAAC or Marty database

The car does have the rare interceptor lights

The guy we went to is just unbelievable - he must have 10 to 15 corvette from the 60's that need to be restored but he won't sell any!!! and he has many other that would be high dollar cars restored ... just ridiculous and sad as they will end up as rust buckets!

Valley, the guy I work with knows I am into the mustangs so he just hooked me up with the owner of the possible GT-350 ... I do not know how much he wants for it ...

I will try to take more pictures when I go back this week

67 evil eleanor

I havethe Shelby registry, It list all the Shelby's and their chain of ownership and sometimes a photo. I will need a VIN. Also under the right fender, there should be a un-molested VIN. You will have to unbolt the fender and slide it back to see it. Most often the price tells you what it is unless its a sham job in the making. BE CAREFUL as not to buy a fake. The data tag you show in the photo looks like a fake, but the photo is hazy.

valley firearms

Even if it is fake the car should be worth $15K or more if it is rust free. From how it sounds though, the guy will never sell it.
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