blane17

btw, not sure where/when i talked down to you. all i said was it makes sense to spend $20 on a part to rule out what is a very possible cause of your problems, especially when you have already spent a lot more than that on caps/rotors/spark plug wires/etc. At the very least, a carb spacer will provide improved performance and to boot, couldpossibly fix your problems.However, if you know its an electrical problem and its faulty wiring, then I'm not sure what anyone here can do for you without actually looking at the car. My question regarding spark was posed for my own edification-- if spark is strong and the timing is correct, how can spark be a problem? What am/was I missing?

anyways, good luck with your electrical problems. i have had them in the past and they ain't fun.

MustangPammie

I don't know what you're missing but hopefully I'll have an answer by the end of the day as she's with the electrical guy right now.

She seemed to start better from a cold start with the new alternator and new original battery on her, but maybe it's my imagination ... or hope.

He'll get her hot, then diagnose it and hopefully fix it.

My fingers and toes are crossed.

MustangPammie

I want to run it tomorrow again until it's hot and see if it's fine, but so far, so good. He fixed the heater/defroster which simply wasn't connected (duh). I drove it for a while and it started up with no issues. Wow.

She starts fine, it was a ground issue to the starter. I thought it was the starter but was told no, even though I could hear it skip for a second before it caught now and then.

I won't ask y'all to kneel yet lol, I'll test it tomorrow to be really, really sure ... so I don't end up eating crow while on MY knees!

The heat felt awesome, as strong as it was in the Mustang this morning.

ebluekeys

Pammie. If you've got new spark wires, no sparks should be seen anywhere day or night. I think running points is nuts in this day and age, unless you're doing a super restoration or something. I bought a fantastic HEI (high energy - like modern cars have - it even has the coil built into the lid of the distributor!!) on Ebay for $69 bucks. VERY nice part, double ball bearing shaft support, nicely machined aluminum, all solid state with just ONE wire ( to the RED switched wire) and also a tach output pin. "performance curve". My engine has never idled worth a crap till I put this in. It was the best improvement for the money I made to the car. Before this, I had put a "pertronics" module in my stock distributor to replace the points. They are about 40 bucks and everything looks stock from the outside, but it works better, starts faster, and never needs adjustment. Either way, you will be ahead of the game. Good luck with the problem if this doesn't help.

MustangPammie

Thanks, a few people have mentioned HEI yet a good friend said he prefers Petronix.

I'm going to give it a week or so and see if it's truly fixed (this car is like Christine, remember) and then make a decision on changing to HEI.

fast66

Hey, my car runs fine. Im happy.[sm=mail.gif]
Yours is the one that runs like crap.
BTW, you sure you're not getting your forums mixed up? This isn't http://www.classiccardating.com/

crunchyskippy

This has been a dizzying thread to follow. It started out with MustangPammie determined it WAS vapor lock. Kalli and Fastback351 both stated it could be grounding issues (and turned out correct). All along the way there were many other symptoms just to confuse and distract the issue. And there were lots of people trying to provide honest help. Let's be sure to skip the "I told you so" part.

MustangPammie

I was told that it was symptomatic of vapor lock. Other people here convinced me it wasn't vapor lock and it was spark and not fuel.

My last comments were said in jest. I do appreciate everyone who tried to help here and in private, as always.

I'm still not positive it is fixed and won't know until later today until I drive it and see how it reacts.