my77stang

tandl is a great choice, but if i were you i would stick with a 289 and just build that puppy to tear some ***

toolwench

I've gone both routes. To start, I hopped up a 289. Tore it down and delivered it to the machine shop in pieces and we talked through how I wanted it done. It was awesome and I learned a lot. I put it back together with a few upgrades and the thing screamed. Best bang for my buck with what little money I had to work with. (I'd mention numbers, but this was over 10 years ago, so it'd look extra cheap!)

A few engines after I blew that one up (had an unavoidable poor oiling situation), I now have a 347 stroker from T&L. This one is way faster than my 289, but it arrived in a crate. Granted, I know how to build a motor now, but still. I did miss that part of the experience even though this engine is more powerful. It was a gift, so I didn't pay for it and therefore I can't comment on bang for the buck. (However the DVD of the dyno was excellent inspiration for dropping that new engine in as soon as I could!)

I think I'd still go with the rebuild, though. You can build the same engine and acquire the parts over time so that it's not one big lump sum and that'll help defray the cost of the unexpected items you discover you need as you dive into the project.

Oxnard Montalvo

Listen to the wench, her words are wise.

The experience of doing it yourself is great. You're seventeen. Harness that teenage energy. Jump right in if you have the facilities to tear the engine out and take it apart. Find a machine shop that will educate and work with you. You'll learn a lot, and the pride of building your own motor will be immeasurable.

ninteen66mustang

I would love to do the work myself, but I dont have all that much free time, and I'm worried that I wont do as good of a job as someone else could. What do you think? how hard is it, how long does it take and stuff? would I need to buy a bunch of tools and everything to do it or what? I also have no idea what parts combo to use, so I would need someone to help me figure that out...

my77stang

its really not as hard as you may think, and most "specialty" tools needed can be gotten for free via free tool rental at your local auto parts store.

what you'll need is:

any "how to build a motor" book, even a chiltons or haynes book for your car will show you the things you need to know such as torque specs and specific procedures. 98% of what you need to know you'll learn while breaking down your motor anyways. plus, if you ever had a question about anything these forums are a great tool to pull the resources of all our brains.

a basic socket set and maybe a few wrenches
a torque wrench (free tool rental)
a ring compressor (free tool rental)
a CLEAN place to assemble. keeping sand/grit/dirt/grease out of your motor while its being built is a very important thing if you want it to last.

umm.... thats about it. you'll need a harmonic balance puller (free tool rental) to get the balancer off when your tearing down the motor.

green_blurr

I purchased a long block 302 from S&S engines in spokane wa for 1,300 with a core deposit that aint bad- i installed an RV cam for 50$ i believe i should have atleast 300hp

http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/fo...2-engines.html






Engines remanufactured by our remanufacturing line meet or exceed O.E.M. specifications.
- New Manley valves
- New Elgin valve springs and keepers
- New Badger pistons
- New Hastings molly rings
- New Dynagear timing gears and Durabond cam bearings
- New Dynagear timing gears and chain
- New Elgin lifters, push rods, rockers, ***** and nuts
- New Dynagear oil pump
- New FelPro gaskets
- Cylinder heads are pressure checked
- Diamond honed valve guides
- Three angle cut valve seats
- All head surfaces are broached
- Blocks are bored with deck plates, cylinder walls are diamond honed
- Crankshafts are ground and polished for .002 clearance
- Camshafts are ground to O.E.M. specifications, hardened and polished
- Connecting rods are sized to .002 clearance

my77stang

a) manley valves are junk (REALLY, they are)
c) badger pistons are crap, they coulda spent another couple bucks and used silvolites which are much much better quality.
b) NOBODY "diamond hones" guides.... thats funny

restomod@16

your lucky that car started out in such great shape. Mine on the other hand isn't so lucky. But doing the work is definately a new and awesome experience. (did i mention im 16, almost 17?) you may not have the time NOW, but once you get started on it you wont find time to do anything BUT work on the stang . Im addicted.

Tang 72

Im only 18 and i strongly agree on the rebuild... i bought my 72 in pretty bad shape and although shes got quite a bit of bondo in the rear, i love the car to death and have really learned alot and apreciate the car alot more (and saved tons of money.) Just take your time and try no to borrow money, especially if you plan on moving out or going to college... let me tell you its expensive. Use the forms and your buddies when you need and take your time with the rebuild so you get everything right. Just dont loose sight of it and try not to rush, i have had my stang for a year and a half and its come a long way. Good luck and welcome to the forum

-1972 302 Sprint coupe

palerider

I've got a 70 302 that as I started to think of what I need to do to it to get to my goal of 400/400 I quickley decided to go crate. Done a lot of research on this and have heard very positive things about ford racing 302. If I was not looking for a little more hp/torque that is the route I would go. Your C4 and rear end should handle it. You can go lower in future would not go any lower than 3.5s - start revving to high after that. I went with 3.4 & traction loc - hit 3k at about 60. Whatever you do you'll learn from the experience. Another point to consider is delivery time - some of the custom builder can take up to 3 months. From what I heard Ford motor are usually in stock and available right away. Good luck.