front suspension toss up
#1
front suspension toss up
would the original suspension setup with the shock towers work just fine in todays world? i did hear about these kits that weld directly to the frame to pretty much make the mustangs into a gm suspension setup but is it worth the money? heres the website for the setup...http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2088...t%20suspension
#2
RE: front suspension toss up
with good shocks, springs, and bushings the old suspensions work just fine. that is unless you listen to ron bramlett or the restomod preacher squad, but i have penske shocks from cobra automotive, 550# coil springs, adjustable cobra automotive strut rods, and opentracker control arms and roller spring perches in my uncles 66 hardtop, w/160 # leafs and penskes in the rear, whole setup was roughly the same price for a basic mustang 2 swap and handles better than my 05 GT.
#4
RE: front suspension toss up
as a card carrying member of the "restomod preacher squad" I say that a solid suspension can be built around the original Front suspension. The following mods are in order of cost/improvement benefits so the top ones will be the best bang for your buck.
1. UCA 1" drop
2. Performance alignment NOT TO FORDS SPECS!!!!!
3. Roller Spring Perches
4. Adjustable strut rods
5. Reasonable springs in the 500# range with performance shocks like KBY
6. 1" sway bar
7. Sub-frame connectors
8. Export brace
9. Monte-Carlo
10. R&P steering
********************************
11. 1.75" UCA drop including negative wedge kit, in place of the 1" drop
12. Aftermarket control arms
13. Coil over suspensions
14. Bump steer kit of some kind.
In the case of my car I have everything above the ********** line, and my car rides like it is on rails. I can accelerate in to a tight corner at 100+ MPH and come out the other side going 125 AND it is still comfortable to drive with out feeling every bump in the road. So often I see people wanting to improve handling so they get the stiffest springs they can find, and yes the car does corner better but the loss in ride quality is incredible. The best advice I ever got involving suspension is to use mild performance springs with performance shocks. I am going to be upgrading to a front coil over set up I am building but the only reason I am doing that is because I want the front suspension to match the IRS I am putting in the rear.
ALSO before starting any suspension mods on a first generation Mustang I recommend reading my web page on improving suspension and eliminating bump steer I am assuming based on your name that it is a 67 Mustang? if so here is the "proper" alignment specs, I print this out and take it to the alignment shop.
Please align to these specs “1967-1970 Mustang, Falcon & Cougar Performance Alignment with Shelby dropâ€.
These specifications are in order of importance.
1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8†toe in
If you run into any problems attaining these specs, please call me (your phone number here).
1. UCA 1" drop
2. Performance alignment NOT TO FORDS SPECS!!!!!
3. Roller Spring Perches
4. Adjustable strut rods
5. Reasonable springs in the 500# range with performance shocks like KBY
6. 1" sway bar
7. Sub-frame connectors
8. Export brace
9. Monte-Carlo
10. R&P steering
********************************
11. 1.75" UCA drop including negative wedge kit, in place of the 1" drop
12. Aftermarket control arms
13. Coil over suspensions
14. Bump steer kit of some kind.
In the case of my car I have everything above the ********** line, and my car rides like it is on rails. I can accelerate in to a tight corner at 100+ MPH and come out the other side going 125 AND it is still comfortable to drive with out feeling every bump in the road. So often I see people wanting to improve handling so they get the stiffest springs they can find, and yes the car does corner better but the loss in ride quality is incredible. The best advice I ever got involving suspension is to use mild performance springs with performance shocks. I am going to be upgrading to a front coil over set up I am building but the only reason I am doing that is because I want the front suspension to match the IRS I am putting in the rear.
ALSO before starting any suspension mods on a first generation Mustang I recommend reading my web page on improving suspension and eliminating bump steer I am assuming based on your name that it is a 67 Mustang? if so here is the "proper" alignment specs, I print this out and take it to the alignment shop.
Please align to these specs “1967-1970 Mustang, Falcon & Cougar Performance Alignment with Shelby dropâ€.
These specifications are in order of importance.
1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8†toe in
If you run into any problems attaining these specs, please call me (your phone number here).
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