Electrical problem
#1
Electrical problem
67 coupe
289 4bbl
I flubbed big time. I had just put on a new manifold and was so anxious to get everything pluged back in and time her in that I forgot a little detail that has long needed reversing. The ignition wire that goes to the coil is black. I didin't do it probably previous owner but I never tagged it. So in my haste to hear her roaring again I put theblack wire on the negative side where black wires usually go and turned the key. Puff of smoke from the battery and a few sparks. Now everything is dead. No lights, no starter, no nothing. I'm sure I fried some electrical componant but No idea which.I do have a multimeterbut no clear idea of the wireing in my car.
Anyone know what is going toneed replaceing orhow to check?
289 4bbl
I flubbed big time. I had just put on a new manifold and was so anxious to get everything pluged back in and time her in that I forgot a little detail that has long needed reversing. The ignition wire that goes to the coil is black. I didin't do it probably previous owner but I never tagged it. So in my haste to hear her roaring again I put theblack wire on the negative side where black wires usually go and turned the key. Puff of smoke from the battery and a few sparks. Now everything is dead. No lights, no starter, no nothing. I'm sure I fried some electrical componant but No idea which.I do have a multimeterbut no clear idea of the wireing in my car.
Anyone know what is going toneed replaceing orhow to check?
#3
RE: Electrical problem
im pretty sure your solenoid is gone. im not sure what else got damaged. possibly coil,points,condensor, voltage regulator. i havnt encountered this problem before, but if it was me, i would just start replacing most electrical components. just my .02, other guys on here will be able to provide better insight.
#5
RE: Electrical problem
Fuses inside the firewall are all good. If there are any inline or fuseable links on the engine side I've yet to find them. I figure the solenoid is probably gone too but am not surehow to check it useing the multimeter. Any suggestions?
I know the electrical components are usealy pretty cheap but itbeing the season it is I'd like to save a buck by only replaceing what I have to. I'll get on thoes diagrams from the FAQ now. Thanks!
I know the electrical components are usealy pretty cheap but itbeing the season it is I'd like to save a buck by only replaceing what I have to. I'll get on thoes diagrams from the FAQ now. Thanks!
#6
RE: Electrical problem
to have no power of any kind you probably fried something in the main power cable. Check the main power lead that hooks to the solinoide terminal and provides power to everything but the starter. I have seen many times where a non factory fusiable link is spliced in for just such crew ups. Some times fusable link is no more than a special wire spliced in line. Also check all your connections at the solinoid. some times a direct short like that will corode the ends of the cable and stop the connection.
To check your solinoid:
1. Disconnect your battery
2. remove everything except the battery cable from the solinoide.
3. Attach a jumper wire to the small terminal closest to the battery input on the solinoide
4. connect a the positive lead of a meter set on DC volts to the starter side of the solinoid and the negative leed to ground.
5. reconnect the battery.
6. touch the other end of the jumper attached in step 3 to the battery side terminal of the solinoid and see if voltage registers on the meter.
7. repeat step 6 with the positive lead of the meater disconnect from the starter terminal on the solinoid and reconnected on the other little terminal that is closest to the starter side of the solinoid.
if with either test you are not getting 12V the solinoid is bad.
or remove the solinoid and take it to your local autoparts store many do electrical testing for free.
To check your solinoid:
1. Disconnect your battery
2. remove everything except the battery cable from the solinoide.
3. Attach a jumper wire to the small terminal closest to the battery input on the solinoide
4. connect a the positive lead of a meter set on DC volts to the starter side of the solinoid and the negative leed to ground.
5. reconnect the battery.
6. touch the other end of the jumper attached in step 3 to the battery side terminal of the solinoid and see if voltage registers on the meter.
7. repeat step 6 with the positive lead of the meater disconnect from the starter terminal on the solinoid and reconnected on the other little terminal that is closest to the starter side of the solinoid.
if with either test you are not getting 12V the solinoid is bad.
or remove the solinoid and take it to your local autoparts store many do electrical testing for free.
#9
RE: Electrical problem
Check the battery cable + side on the solenoid with you meeter.
Then turn on the key and check the other side my guess is its fried.
You can always go old school danger and just take a couple of old screwdrivers and arc the 2 post's.
Make sure your in park or in neutral if its a stick 1st!
The engine will turn with out the ignition it its does its a bad unit.
Then turn on the key and check the other side my guess is its fried.
You can always go old school danger and just take a couple of old screwdrivers and arc the 2 post's.
Make sure your in park or in neutral if its a stick 1st!
The engine will turn with out the ignition it its does its a bad unit.
#10
RE: Electrical problem
Soleniod was bad. Thanks for all the great tests. Would have spent much more time and money without all of you. New one has given me electricity back. Starter spins but she's not fireing yet. Thats a whole nother ballgame. Thanks a lot everyone!
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