eZ

Im tubbing the rear end of my 65 this this week and i have really been contemplating a way to move my leaf springs in more. problem i am going to run into is the gas tank is too wide. any suggestions for a narrower gas tank that does not cost a fortune?

JamesW

One option is to toss the old tank and put a new fuel cell above the new structure inside the truck.

eZ

do you think i can find a fuel cell that i can mount down low like the stock unit that will be a bit more narrow? Do the fuel cells have to sit above?

zmetalmilitia

summit racing has fuel cells that are reasonable. The have all kinds of options that will work for what you are trying to do.

67mustang302

Why are you tubbing it?

valley firearms

After reading and see pics of Mustangs that had been hit from behind I decided to go with a fuel cell. I just happened to find one on Craigslist when I decided to make that change. They come in all shapes and sizes as mentioned. Post pics of your project.
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eZ

well because i want to!!
I would like to take this car to the drags. hopefully eventually have a 12 sec or less car. so the extra rubber will help. plus i love the look of fat tires in the rear when the car is sitting low. I love the chip foose look. im putting 18's in the rear and 17's up front. putting the car as low as i can. hopefully get some 10.5 in the rear that i can tuck under the lip.



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67mustang302

You don't need to tub it for any of that. You can fit 255 or 265 wide tires in the back without tubbing if you have properly backspaced 17's or 18's. With your suspension set up right and street tires you can run into the 12's without issue. ET radials that are 265 wide with properly set up suspension is enough rubber to run single digits in the 1/4. I got mine to go 13.20's, and that was with a weak *** tune that only had 31* of total timing to control detonation from the lean jetting that I had, so I was losing a fair bit of power there. And my 60's sucked because of my worn out weaksauce suspension(and my pinion angle was prolly off a bit too, in addition to craptastic gearing) so I was getting wheel hop if I launched over 2,400rpm, but the street tires at 40psi still had plenty of grab left in them, and they're only 225 wide. With new suspension and proper engine and chassis tuning, I expect to break 12's easily next spring on street tires.

You don't need to tub it to get traction, especially since if your suspension is setup wrong the extra rubber won't help, you'll still not have traction. Also the larger the tires are, the more power they rob as you go faster down the track, so you want to use the smallest tire you can and still have enough rubber for a good launch. 255's are still wide, and tucked under a small car like a 65 look aggressive, if that's what you're concerned about, but if you want traction, you're better off spending time and money on suspension mods that will make 50x the difference than a slightly wider tire will. CE's Slide-A-Links with goodleaves, tuningand drag radials, and your biggest concern will be breaking your drivetrain components, not spinning. Tubbing is a pain, and when you factor in the cost of everything, you'll get WAY more for your money by just going with a really good suspension setup, you'll have plenty of traction to run 12's, or even 11's or 10's if you like.

eZ

good info i appreciate it. tubbing for me is damn near free though. cost of some aluminum and a six pack of beer and a couple days off from work! but remember im running a 65 not a 67. not as much space under the wheel well. my suspension is all new. front and rear sway bars. sub frame connect. and a currie 9' with 4.11's

rmodel65

i can run a 10.5 inch slick with my flares its one of the reasons id did the flares