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oh no!!!this cant be good
I was messing around with my car yesterday and heard a BAD noise.The rocker stud broke off right below the threads.Ive been posting this around town in hopes someone can tell me how to get it out! Hopefully the pic works
[IMG]local://upfiles/52961/9B7D625C089941BEB9409E8856BC3D61.jpg[/IMG] |
RE: oh no!!!this cant be good
have you tried vise grips? maybe weld a nut to the top of the stud?
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RE: oh no!!!this cant be good
a reverse drill bit should work (like get one small enough to go into it and try that).. or at least ive heard
Good luck! |
RE: oh no!!!this cant be good
+1 for welding a nut to it.
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RE: oh no!!!this cant be good
the weld-a-nut idea would be great,but I dont have a welder.Also,are these pressed or screwed in?They are rebuilt stock 65 heads
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RE: oh no!!!this cant be good
I always take a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and cut a slot big enough to get my large straight blade screwdriver into.
Then TWIST! Hasent failed me yet on head bolts, flywheels water pumps, valve covers and rocker arm studs. Cheap easy quick if it works for you like it has me. |
RE: oh no!!!this cant be good
vise grips...there is plenty of meat to grab. Use a nice new pair. There may be LokTite on the threads, so maybe a little heat if the grips don't work. I wouldn't drill it...unless you snap it off flush, whichI doubt you wil do
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RE: oh no!!!this cant be good
I pasted your pic into Word, blew it up to 500%, and Istill couldn't tell whether the studs are press-in or screw-in.
But I did see some questionable marks on the top of the valve stem for the bad stud. Unless it's just a grease smear of some sort I'd get an automotive machine shop to look at it just for that. Look at the rocker's roller tip and bring thattoo. If they aren't screw-in studs (OE was not, but I have no idea what any rebuild since might have done), now would be the time to get that done for all 16 valves. One has already broken, so others may not be far behind . . . Out of curiosity, what sort of pressures are those springs supposed to have? Norm |
RE: oh no!!!this cant be good
im not sure on the springs,but the marks on the valve tip you saw wasnt oil,i noticed it too.i also saw that the other rocker on that cylinder was loose,that stud pulled up almost 1/4.ive been thinking about after market heads maybe instead of spending money on these ill save for some rpms.thanks al |
RE: oh no!!!this cant be good
I'd use it as an excuse to spend money on some Edelbrock or AFR heads. But that's just me. And if the stud pulled out some, then they're pressed in.[:'(]
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RE: oh no!!!this cant be good
Whatever you do, don't forget that there may be bits of metal in the oil. I would flush the systems.
Change the filter also. My uncle runs a fleet of trucks and his company always flushes new/repaired engines by running diesel in place of oil for15 minutes. Then draining and replacing with oil. Then running for half an hour then change oil again. They claim with this process they clear crap even from new engines. Most of the fleet last for a minimum 10 years of hard hauling and they have minimal engine issues. I heard this technique from another mechanic who specialised in recovering engines that had seized. But I would seek a professional opinion before doing it myself. Jav |
RE: oh no!!!this cant be good
Concerning new heads, They will set you back about US$1500 all up with gaskets/new head bolts/ARP studs coolant etc.
If you can pull the heads yourself, I would think you can get those studs pulled and the holes drilled and tapped and some ARP studs fitted for a few hundred bucks. Might be the best solution for a street car. Also the valve head could possibly be machined. Jav |
RE: oh no!!!this cant be good
Pull the head and take it to a shop for repair.
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RE: oh no!!!this cant be good
ORIGINAL: JapanGT Whatever you do, don't forget that there may be bits of metal in the oil. I would flush the systems. Change the filter also. My uncle runs a fleet of trucks and his company always flushes new/repaired engines by running diesel in place of oil for15 minutes. Then draining and replacing with oil. Then running for half an hour then change oil again. They claim with this process they clear crap even from new engines. Most of the fleet last for a minimum 10 years of hard hauling and they have minimal engine issues. I heard this technique from another mechanic who specialised in recovering engines that had seized. But I would seek a professional opinion before doing it myself. Jav |
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