68 289 intake manifold - interchangibility w/ 67 289 A code or a 68 302
#1
68 289 intake manifold - interchangibility w/ 67 289 A code or a 68 302
Hello,
I have a 68 with a 289 and wanted to increase my horsepower (HP). I was told, and have read, that if I replace my stock 2V to a stock ford mustang 4V intake manifold I could increase my HP (and decrease my MPG). I would like to stay with stock items so I am thinking of finding a 65-67 289 A code 4v intake. I have been told I could use a 68 302 4V intake.
My question: It is probably much easier to find a 302 J code 4V intake manifold then a 289 A code manifold. Will the 302 4v intake fit on top of my 289 engine without any manipulations? I have been told it would but I want to confirm with some experts.
Thanks,
I have a 68 with a 289 and wanted to increase my horsepower (HP). I was told, and have read, that if I replace my stock 2V to a stock ford mustang 4V intake manifold I could increase my HP (and decrease my MPG). I would like to stay with stock items so I am thinking of finding a 65-67 289 A code 4v intake. I have been told I could use a 68 302 4V intake.
My question: It is probably much easier to find a 302 J code 4V intake manifold then a 289 A code manifold. Will the 302 4v intake fit on top of my 289 engine without any manipulations? I have been told it would but I want to confirm with some experts.
Thanks,
#3
+1
I'd recommend switching to an aluminum intake as well. You'll understand once you pull that cast iron boat anchor off the top of your engine. An aluminum intake can be hefted with one hand alone without much effort, while a factory cast iron piece takes both hands and a bit of muscle. Performance gains will also be slightly higher with something like a Weiand 8124 or Edelbrock Performer 289.
If you want it to look original, shave off the manufacturer logo with a dremel and paint the intake to match your engine.
I'd recommend switching to an aluminum intake as well. You'll understand once you pull that cast iron boat anchor off the top of your engine. An aluminum intake can be hefted with one hand alone without much effort, while a factory cast iron piece takes both hands and a bit of muscle. Performance gains will also be slightly higher with something like a Weiand 8124 or Edelbrock Performer 289.
If you want it to look original, shave off the manufacturer logo with a dremel and paint the intake to match your engine.
#4
A code C code K code they all fit the same. Also most 5.0 stuff will fit. As rmodel65 said. Best bet is an aluminum dual plane aftermarket one, that will give you the most bang for the buck. Plus it's about 30 pounds lighter.
#5
you say you want to go stockish. i do understand stock and not stock. but i don't understand bolting on a different cast iron brick on the engine that is not stock
so +1 on that. either leave it stock or get intake as Tad suggests (Weiand 8124 or edelbrock performer).
I guess you know that you will need a different carb for that.
So either try to find a used autolite 4100 or get a new/used edelbrock 600cfm 4barrell carb or a new/used holley 600 or demon
kalli
so +1 on that. either leave it stock or get intake as Tad suggests (Weiand 8124 or edelbrock performer).
I guess you know that you will need a different carb for that.
So either try to find a used autolite 4100 or get a new/used edelbrock 600cfm 4barrell carb or a new/used holley 600 or demon
kalli
#7
I have a 68 C code coupe and went to a J code 4bbl intake then three mnoths later went to an Edelbrock Performer. as I was unhappy with the Ford cast Iron intake. I don't know the difference yet b/c I don't have a radiator yet, but on desktop dyno its good for another 20hp and 5lbs of torque with my engine set up. for a stock engine the gains will be less but still significant. plus I picked up a used edelbrock for 5o bucks and had it cleaned and blasted for free. so i think its worth it. good luck.
#9
+1 on the 500cfm. Get a new mild cam and timing chain set while you are at it. You will already have the intake off and will just have to pull the water pump and timing cover. Might as well. Look intop an autolite 4100 carb with 1.08 venturis. That with a ford mani will look like a very nice original set up. I did the same for my 67 289.
#10
A cam job is a bigger project than a simple intake swap. You can do an intake/carb for under $300 and an afternoon of labor, but a cam kit is going to run you another $200-250 (assuming a good timing set) and a lot more labor. While I agree, it would be good to do it all at once, it's a bigger job than most beginners feel like tackling, and you can just as easily do the cam later if you want to.