289 Engine questions
#21
If you keep the stock heads, you can convert to screw in studs with the heads installed on the engine. If a stud has pulled out, you can't simply push it back in as the next time it will pull out even faster, taking your performance with it as the valve opens less and less. You could use a stud pinning kit:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...60&D=%2D221060
But I like to convert the stock heads to screw in studs. Use a tap and tap the stock hole for a 7/16-14 stud and use these studs:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Now you will need an adjustable rail type rocker arm designed to not be used with guide plates. The rails on either side of the roller tip (or non-roller if you chose) act as the guide plate using the valve to keep the rocker in position. I would use these:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku
Check your geometry and get new push rods if required to keep the tip centered over the valve. Now you are all set for about $200.
BTW, the picture on the left is an adjustable rail rocker that uses the valve tip to keep it aligned. THe one on the right requires guide plates to keep it aligned.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...60&D=%2D221060
But I like to convert the stock heads to screw in studs. Use a tap and tap the stock hole for a 7/16-14 stud and use these studs:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Now you will need an adjustable rail type rocker arm designed to not be used with guide plates. The rails on either side of the roller tip (or non-roller if you chose) act as the guide plate using the valve to keep the rocker in position. I would use these:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku
Check your geometry and get new push rods if required to keep the tip centered over the valve. Now you are all set for about $200.
BTW, the picture on the left is an adjustable rail rocker that uses the valve tip to keep it aligned. THe one on the right requires guide plates to keep it aligned.
Last edited by fakesnakes; 09-27-2008 at 12:52 PM.
#22
dude im almost positive those are NOT adjustable. they are supposed to be tightened all the way down and thats that. now, that doesnt mean they will be set right, because from the shims under your springs i can tell the heads have been done so who knows where your installed valve height is. your never gonna know where your lifter preload is because the lifters are already filled with oil.
best solution IMO is to put screw in studs in, and self aligning rockers with polylock nuts on top so you can set them the right way. you *can* pull the studs and tap the holes on the motor, but its gonna be a pain in the ***.
best solution IMO is to put screw in studs in, and self aligning rockers with polylock nuts on top so you can set them the right way. you *can* pull the studs and tap the holes on the motor, but its gonna be a pain in the ***.
#23
Thanks for the help so far, to get back to my thread, is there another set of heads that won't require so much machine work to use on the 289 or that would be beter for the $ than the gt-40's?
#24
the gt-40's are the best bang for the buck heads you'll find. gt-40p's will work great too, but you'd have to make sure the spark plugs wont hit your headers and certain headers do, while certain headers work with a little dinging with a hammer, and certain headers wont work at all.
you can get a set of them from tristatecylinderhead for like 600 bucks already remachined with larger valves, stiffer springs, and screw in studs.
you can get a set of them from tristatecylinderhead for like 600 bucks already remachined with larger valves, stiffer springs, and screw in studs.
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