New to the forum... seeking carb advice (long).
#1
New to the forum... seeking carb advice (long).
I've got a 67 convertible that i'm saving up for a dyno tuning this spring.
The engine is a rebuilt & balanced 302 with about 9000 miles on it.
C90Z-C cam (advertised as the hydraulic version of the 289 HiPo cam). I'm not sure what all of this means, but the cam specs are:
Adv. Duration 298 deg/298 deg
Duration @ 0.050" 218 deg/218 deg
Cam Lift 0.288"/0.288"
Valve Lift 0.460"/0.460"
LSA 07 deg 119 deg
AFR 165 heads, scorpion 1.6 rockers, Cast Iron HiPo exhaust manifolds, 2" exaust H pipe w/dynomax turbo mufflers, Edelbrock Performer intake and a pertronix breakerless ignition.
So here's my question. I've got 2 carbs available. An edelbrock 600 cfm performer with elec. choke, and a rebuilt autolite 4100 (1.12). Since either carb will get new jets, etc as part of the dyno tuning, which one should i bring... as I'm not going to do this twice.
I don't intend to race the car, but definitely enjoy putting the 4 cyl crowd (usually my own sons) in their proper place once in a while.
The engine is a rebuilt & balanced 302 with about 9000 miles on it.
C90Z-C cam (advertised as the hydraulic version of the 289 HiPo cam). I'm not sure what all of this means, but the cam specs are:
Adv. Duration 298 deg/298 deg
Duration @ 0.050" 218 deg/218 deg
Cam Lift 0.288"/0.288"
Valve Lift 0.460"/0.460"
LSA 07 deg 119 deg
AFR 165 heads, scorpion 1.6 rockers, Cast Iron HiPo exhaust manifolds, 2" exaust H pipe w/dynomax turbo mufflers, Edelbrock Performer intake and a pertronix breakerless ignition.
So here's my question. I've got 2 carbs available. An edelbrock 600 cfm performer with elec. choke, and a rebuilt autolite 4100 (1.12). Since either carb will get new jets, etc as part of the dyno tuning, which one should i bring... as I'm not going to do this twice.
I don't intend to race the car, but definitely enjoy putting the 4 cyl crowd (usually my own sons) in their proper place once in a while.
#2
welcome to the forums. I gotta say, you are kinda running a mixed matched combination. those heads are meant to flow, and your intake, cam, and exhaust manifolds are choking them.
between the two carbs listed i'd go with the edelbrock, but if your going to have the motor dyno tuned i highly recommend getting a holley.
between the two carbs listed i'd go with the edelbrock, but if your going to have the motor dyno tuned i highly recommend getting a holley.
#3
The Edelbrock will be slightly more adjustable, so that's what I'd recommend running. Not that there's anything wrong with the Autolite (it might work just fine without any significant adjustments), but it's just not quite as adjustable.
#4
I too would choose the Edelbrock if faced those choices, but Holley is the carb to think about if you are going to go through the process of getting dyno tuned. They are MUCH more adjustable than either of your two choices.
I also agree with my77stang. You have nice heads, but your cam, exhaust manifold, and intake are holding you back. Do not be surprised if the dyno tuner tells you that you have 25-30% more horsepower available if you change those three things.
I do not know where this hydraulic HiPo cam stuff started...marketing bs I guess. That part number is a 351 cam that is advertised as a 290* duration .470 lift, but it is a 216/240 duration @ .05 which is the standard to compare cams by. If compared to some good cams, the lift and duration on the intake side is lacking to be much more than warmed up stocker.
My point is you have more potential in that motor, so your dyno tune may need to be redone when you upgrade your bottle neck parts.
I also agree with my77stang. You have nice heads, but your cam, exhaust manifold, and intake are holding you back. Do not be surprised if the dyno tuner tells you that you have 25-30% more horsepower available if you change those three things.
I do not know where this hydraulic HiPo cam stuff started...marketing bs I guess. That part number is a 351 cam that is advertised as a 290* duration .470 lift, but it is a 216/240 duration @ .05 which is the standard to compare cams by. If compared to some good cams, the lift and duration on the intake side is lacking to be much more than warmed up stocker.
My point is you have more potential in that motor, so your dyno tune may need to be redone when you upgrade your bottle neck parts.
#5
welcome to the forums. I gotta say, you are kinda running a mixed matched combination. those heads are meant to flow, and your intake, cam, and exhaust manifolds are choking them.
between the two carbs listed i'd go with the edelbrock, but if your going to have the motor dyno tuned i highly recommend getting a holley.
between the two carbs listed i'd go with the edelbrock, but if your going to have the motor dyno tuned i highly recommend getting a holley.
You should at least get a set of Tri-Y headers for your car. I would have gone with 2 1/2" exhaust, but your exhaust is fine. You'll get a little more torque out of your motor with the 2" exhaust.
#6
Strange set up. The order most people take in engine upgrades:
1. headers/exhaust
2. carb/intake
3. cam
4. ignition
5. heads
Yours seems to be the opposite. Did you build the engine? You have some real potential, but need some parts that could run up to around $1000 if you buy them new.
Anyway, as for your question, if those are the only two choices Edelbrock.
1. headers/exhaust
2. carb/intake
3. cam
4. ignition
5. heads
Yours seems to be the opposite. Did you build the engine? You have some real potential, but need some parts that could run up to around $1000 if you buy them new.
Anyway, as for your question, if those are the only two choices Edelbrock.
#7
Except for the heads, the rest of the combo is fairly well matched... isn't it?
I was putting the car together as a slightly improved daily driver when a work acquaintance wrecked his 66 cpe. He decided not to fix or replace the car and had the AFR heads sitting on the shelf of his garage as "left overs". In exchange for the heads, I built him a redwood deck behind his house. He paid for the materials and it took me about a week to complete it.
So that's basically how i ended up with high performing heads on a medium performance engine. I honestly don't want to spend any more money on parts, i was just hoping to get the most out of what i had available.
And even if i did purchase better matched parts, wouldn't i need to get the dyno tuning done anyway to make sure i was getting the most out of my engine?
I was putting the car together as a slightly improved daily driver when a work acquaintance wrecked his 66 cpe. He decided not to fix or replace the car and had the AFR heads sitting on the shelf of his garage as "left overs". In exchange for the heads, I built him a redwood deck behind his house. He paid for the materials and it took me about a week to complete it.
So that's basically how i ended up with high performing heads on a medium performance engine. I honestly don't want to spend any more money on parts, i was just hoping to get the most out of what i had available.
And even if i did purchase better matched parts, wouldn't i need to get the dyno tuning done anyway to make sure i was getting the most out of my engine?
#8
yes, and it makes a little more sense as to why you have those heads now. may i suggest even upgrading your intake to a performer RPM and picking up a set of longtube headers? even with your cam, those modifications would be relatively easy to do and would let your engine breathe much better.
#10
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