while I'm at it ...
 

Since i'm upgrading the motor I have to pull the old one and will probably give the enginebay a new lick.

but there's a few other things i'm a bit worried about.
a) the car was original 170ci and so is the fuel system. I guess I have to upgrade all fuel lines back to front. 3/8" good enough for ~350HP (at least that's what I'm guessing the thing be at flywheel). 302 with edelbrock rpm top end kit. spinning up to 6500 rpm

b) the clutch. I'm not planning anything there until I have the engine on my lap as I have no idea if the thing will come with a flywheel. so I'll open another thread then.

c) exhaust system is 1-1/2" long tube headers and flowmaster 40 true dual. that should be plenty good I guess. I'll weld in a H-pipe down the road at some stage

d) i'll have the radiator and heater core checked and flushed in any case

Is there anything else I should consider doing?

Kalli

do you mean 2-1/2" exhaust?

You may have a cooling issue if you stick with the original 6 cyl radiator. How's the front springs/suspension? (still 6cyl)

don't know what rad is in there. when i got her she was without thermostat, so always running cold. good point though.
The springs are heavy duty V8 (NPD) and the shocks are red konis. put them both in myself. so that's all good.

snorulz: 1-1/2" headers (no idea about collector size. i'd guess 3") with 2.25" exhaust pipe

.....

Scott, 70% is too much coolant. It ups the boiling temp, but unfortunately coolant has a very high surface tension. This results in nucleation sites (point boiling at hot spots) all over the heads that can't be swept away by the flowing coolant. Sure, the overall boiling temp is raised, but these nucleation sites are bad. At these sites, heat is not being transferred to the liquid coolant, it's being used to superheat the boiling coolant. Ideal cooling comes from transfer of heat to the liquid coolant, where it can be carried away by the radiator.

I usually recommend either 50/50 or 60/40 water/coolant mix, with a bottle of water wetter to further reduce surface tension and improve cooling. Under 13psi, you shouldn't have to worry about boiling these mixes as long as your cooling system is adequate.

kalli, i got ya now, i thought you were talking about collector size

wohhhoooo that's plenty of info :-)
i usually mix in such a way that I get -15degree celcius mixture which is usually a quarter of mixture coolant, rest water

1. as for the radiator. I never thought about that point before, but it is gold under the painter black on top which indicates 64-65 years. maybe that was a good part of my trouble. so i mightget new rad and heater core.

2. as for the fuel lines. I'll just leave them as they are. And see from there what happens.

3. for the flywheel. It's a 72 D0OE with 28oz imbalance. So I was hoping my old one would fit. That way I'd know that my starter would fit to flywheel.

4. I'll look into the 3-bolt and 4-bolt on balancer. I never knew they were different. I'll check what I have

5. what did you mean with that one?

"If it's a late model block you may also need the bracket that bolts to the bell housing in order to use the stock clutch bell crank. This part should also be available from NPD."

The bellhousing I currently have is a 1966 6bolt housing. what is a "stock clutch bell crank" ?

thanks a mil! will definetly have pizza and beer with the car as I owe my friends for all their help anyway ;-)

Kalli

Later model blocks had no threaded boss for the z-bar mount. You won't need that bracket, Kalli.

wohooo :-) it's getting easier and easier. thanks a lot all.

I'll be in Germany next week and i hope to have it sitting there waiting for me when I return. I'll be at car at weekend to pull the old engine.

Do i actually have to get the transmission out of the car or can I just unbolt the trans (leave trans in car), loosen engine mounts and pull up and forward ? I'm not going to pull engine and trans out at same time. just thought I might save time if I leave the transmission where it is ?!

kalli