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E-Stang Build Thread

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Old 02-27-2009, 02:08 PM
  #11  
rst08tierney
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hmmm, I dont know what to think about this one...........
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Old 02-27-2009, 02:12 PM
  #12  
nba1341
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is this going to be one of those evs that chrysler is going to put out that are like really really fast or is it going to be like slow like a golf cart?
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Old 02-27-2009, 03:17 PM
  #13  
Tony R
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The camaro I saw done was doing burn outs with three fat guys and a fat girl in it. Even with the weight of the passengers and the batteries it didn't slow it down at all. The one I saw though had a battery pack in the trunk and also in the engine compartment. Seemed kind of crowded to me.
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Old 02-27-2009, 04:05 PM
  #14  
fakesnakes
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This thing will have more torque than any Mustang ever had. Frame reinforcements are required or the back wheels will become the front wheels quickly! Cool project!

Check this out:

http://www.ffcobra.com/forums/showth...electric+coupe

And you have to love this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsMIQ1cAAis
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Old 02-27-2009, 10:24 PM
  #15  
sailfish11
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The E-Stang's acceleration and top speed will be limited mostly by what I program into the motor controller. One of the reasons I liked this car as a donor was because of all the racing mods -- it already had sub-frame supports, four-wheel disk brakes, and a beefed up suspension.

It also has fiberglass panels, hood, and lid. And I've added an aluminum driveshaft to reduce rotational weight. I'll also get a set of racing wheels (maybe Torq Thrust -- but I'm still looking).



Of course I'm adding 540 lbs of batteries and a 225 lbs motor. Part of that is offset by removing the engine, clutch, exhaust, and other internal combustion engine (ICE) parts.

The net change to curb weight will probably be around a plus 200 lbs -- I won't know for sure until the car is done and I weigh it.
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Old 02-28-2009, 07:11 AM
  #16  
67 evil eleanor
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I'm guessing the you may be a few pounds less that a good ole V8. A full gas tank will go over a hundred pounds. The cooling system 30 or 40 lbs. Removint the old battery 40 lbs. Tranny and fluid, another hundred pounds. That in its self is about three hundred pounds. I would like to see some pictures of the cells you plan to use. If done well, it will smoke a V8, and your biggest obstacle is going to be wind resistance. I would consider smoothing up the front (in a tastful way) as this is going to save tons of energy at highway speeds. Also I'm interested in the control system that you plan to use. DC is fairly easy to control compared to AC (its been a while since I've played with them though). Good luck and don't get fried.
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Old 02-28-2009, 07:35 AM
  #17  
LCC
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I'm also interested in this project. Would love to have someone pay me to do it instead of financing a project myself. I would have used the 123 cells that seem to be a big hit in drag racing but keep us posted on the progress.. Good luck.
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Old 02-28-2009, 01:38 PM
  #18  
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There's a picture of the batteries in post 3 -- but they're not installed in the car yet (still manufacturing the battery rack).

A123 is the only US maker of lithium cells -- unfortunately if you're name isn't Chevy they won't talk to you. They have made it very clear they have no interest in selling to individuals. Too bad, I'd have much rather spent my money here, rather than buying from the Chinese....

By the way, here's a shot of the engine, er, motor bay, freshly painted:



I'm a little disappointed that he didn't mask or remove anything before painting -- but I guess that's what I get for having my EV converter do the painting!

Last edited by sailfish11; 03-02-2009 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 03-01-2009, 02:45 AM
  #19  
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Here's some more pics of the motor mount being manufactured:



And here it is before installing it in the car:

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Old 03-01-2009, 07:05 AM
  #20  
67 evil eleanor
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I see them now, I was reading this post while in a hurry to get out the door for work. How much torque? If its up there, yoiu may want to extend your 3X3? square tubing back and tie it into the rear frame rails/boxes. One weak area in a vert is there is not a lot of support from the front to the rear and I have seen them all but break in the middle. The last three I seen on a lift (2 post) you had to lift up on the rear bumper to close the doors. Having no exhaust to deal with and the motor carriage built like you do this would be VERY easy to continue to the rear. That would make the car very solid and eliminate any chassis flex or even a permanent twist. Having no exhaust will make it even easier also. It seems that you have a well conceived plan. Good luck.
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