Rack & Pinion?
#1
Rack & Pinion?
I'm doing my homework on rack & pinion steering. If anyone has installed one, let me know what brand you have, what it cost, and your opinion. I've looked at a few, but I'm currently thinking about getting the Steeroids R&P. I seems to be the most complete. I like the Heidt IFS, but cutting & welding the frame doesn't really appeal to me.
Is manual R&P enough or go with power R&P? I've heard manual racks steer almost as easy as original power steering.
I've also read somewhere that R&P doesn't have a very good turning radius. Any comments on that would be appreciated also.
Is manual R&P enough or go with power R&P? I've heard manual racks steer almost as easy as original power steering.
I've also read somewhere that R&P doesn't have a very good turning radius. Any comments on that would be appreciated also.
#2
From what I've read the TCP R&P system is very nice and several people here have them on their cars.
From what I've read the Manual R&P system is easy to turn, but if you have an angled garage it might prove a little harder. The power I think would be beneficial if you have a tight area that you park your car (my garage is at an angle and when I put my classic truck in I have to back it in, luckily it has Power steering).
I hear the R&P's do not have as tight of a turning radius but the TCP is suppose to be better than most of the other brands on the market due to how it is built.
Like I said I do not have one yet or have I installed one but several people here I'm sure will pipe up and give you some good advice.
From what I've read the Manual R&P system is easy to turn, but if you have an angled garage it might prove a little harder. The power I think would be beneficial if you have a tight area that you park your car (my garage is at an angle and when I put my classic truck in I have to back it in, luckily it has Power steering).
I hear the R&P's do not have as tight of a turning radius but the TCP is suppose to be better than most of the other brands on the market due to how it is built.
Like I said I do not have one yet or have I installed one but several people here I'm sure will pipe up and give you some good advice.
#3
I have had the question about the turning radius as well. My 1969 Coupe's turning radius is pretty bad (to say the least) with the original power steering setup, so I really can't imagine it getting too much worse (could it?). Any knowledge out there on which/any brands that do NOT decrease turning radius?
#4
I installed a Flaming River manual rack on my '66 coupe. I removed the factory P/S set up.
Apparently, the PS pump was taking a lot of hp to run. I could really fell the differance power.
The rack install was a peice of cake. It really is a simple bolt on. The only issue I had was one of the brackets hit the starter. A little bit of grinding was all it took; no big deal.
I also used the FR tilt column. I didn't like it at all. It was not smooth in operation at all. They need to use a real bearing, and not that crummy piece of plastic. It'as was a real pain in the neck to install, too. The piece that needs to be attaxched to the floor needed some significant coaxing.
Connecting the two was a bear. The parts supplied in the kit didn't wantr to fit correctrly. I went diown to my local hot rod shop and bought a better U-joint and DD shaft. Then it fitr and worked correctly
The add says a manual rack will feel as good as stock PS. That's is certainly not true. As long as you're moving, the manual rack is fine. But slow speed, parking lots, drive ways, etc, the manual rack was terrible. I had to install a bigger steering wheel to make up for it.
In short, don't buy the FR steering column, get one from Ididit. Don't use a manual rack, you won't like it for a daily driver or week end cruiser.
But the FR rack and brackets are definatly high quality, and the fit was excellent.
Apparently, the PS pump was taking a lot of hp to run. I could really fell the differance power.
The rack install was a peice of cake. It really is a simple bolt on. The only issue I had was one of the brackets hit the starter. A little bit of grinding was all it took; no big deal.
I also used the FR tilt column. I didn't like it at all. It was not smooth in operation at all. They need to use a real bearing, and not that crummy piece of plastic. It'as was a real pain in the neck to install, too. The piece that needs to be attaxched to the floor needed some significant coaxing.
Connecting the two was a bear. The parts supplied in the kit didn't wantr to fit correctrly. I went diown to my local hot rod shop and bought a better U-joint and DD shaft. Then it fitr and worked correctly
The add says a manual rack will feel as good as stock PS. That's is certainly not true. As long as you're moving, the manual rack is fine. But slow speed, parking lots, drive ways, etc, the manual rack was terrible. I had to install a bigger steering wheel to make up for it.
In short, don't buy the FR steering column, get one from Ididit. Don't use a manual rack, you won't like it for a daily driver or week end cruiser.
But the FR rack and brackets are definatly high quality, and the fit was excellent.
#5
I installed a Flaming River manual rack on my '66 coupe. I removed the factory P/S set up.
Apparently, the PS pump was taking a lot of hp to run. I could really fell the differance power.
The rack install was a peice of cake. It really is a simple bolt on. The only issue I had was one of the brackets hit the starter. A little bit of grinding was all it took; no big deal.
I also used the FR tilt column. I didn't like it at all. It was not smooth in operation at all. They need to use a real bearing, and not that crummy piece of plastic. It'as was a real pain in the neck to install, too. The piece that needs to be attaxched to the floor needed some significant coaxing.
Connecting the two was a bear. The parts supplied in the kit didn't wantr to fit correctrly. I went diown to my local hot rod shop and bought a better U-joint and DD shaft. Then it fitr and worked correctly
The add says a manual rack will feel as good as stock PS. That's is certainly not true. As long as you're moving, the manual rack is fine. But slow speed, parking lots, drive ways, etc, the manual rack was terrible. I had to install a bigger steering wheel to make up for it.
In short, don't buy the FR steering column, get one from Ididit. Don't use a manual rack, you won't like it for a daily driver or week end cruiser.
But the FR rack and brackets are definatly high quality, and the fit was excellent.
Apparently, the PS pump was taking a lot of hp to run. I could really fell the differance power.
The rack install was a peice of cake. It really is a simple bolt on. The only issue I had was one of the brackets hit the starter. A little bit of grinding was all it took; no big deal.
I also used the FR tilt column. I didn't like it at all. It was not smooth in operation at all. They need to use a real bearing, and not that crummy piece of plastic. It'as was a real pain in the neck to install, too. The piece that needs to be attaxched to the floor needed some significant coaxing.
Connecting the two was a bear. The parts supplied in the kit didn't wantr to fit correctrly. I went diown to my local hot rod shop and bought a better U-joint and DD shaft. Then it fitr and worked correctly
The add says a manual rack will feel as good as stock PS. That's is certainly not true. As long as you're moving, the manual rack is fine. But slow speed, parking lots, drive ways, etc, the manual rack was terrible. I had to install a bigger steering wheel to make up for it.
In short, don't buy the FR steering column, get one from Ididit. Don't use a manual rack, you won't like it for a daily driver or week end cruiser.
But the FR rack and brackets are definatly high quality, and the fit was excellent.
#7
I've got an AJE Racing setup consisting of new K-member, front coils and a power R&P. While I haven't installed it yet (next month) the rack I got with it is a remanufactured (by Atsco) FORD rack available from any local Autozone, etc. I personally like this as replacement parts are as easy as a trip to the local Autozone. I think its part number was 64124 and was used on a wide number of FORDs including the late 90s through at least 2000 Mustangs.
I cant say how it performs since it isn't installed yet however it should feel like any other ford power R&P setup I'd guess. This is by far the most economical solution to a front coil-over suspension and R&P upgrade costing about 1/2 what these setups run separately from other companies and parts are readily available.
Here is a photo of the rack installed on the front of a k-member. You'll see it simply gets bolted onto the 2 front extensions which you see on the lower k-member. Sorry but I didn't have the coilovers with me to include in this photo.
I cant say how it performs since it isn't installed yet however it should feel like any other ford power R&P setup I'd guess. This is by far the most economical solution to a front coil-over suspension and R&P upgrade costing about 1/2 what these setups run separately from other companies and parts are readily available.
Here is a photo of the rack installed on the front of a k-member. You'll see it simply gets bolted onto the 2 front extensions which you see on the lower k-member. Sorry but I didn't have the coilovers with me to include in this photo.
Last edited by Adrenolin; 11-16-2014 at 11:10 PM. Reason: Fixing images
#10
Actually, with the TCP rack, headers are not the problem at all. It bolts right in place of the tubular crossmember, using those two mounting holes plus the lower control arm bolts for a very secure and stock looking install.
My big header issue was the cable clutch boss on the bellhousing being blocked by most standard headers.
My big header issue was the cable clutch boss on the bellhousing being blocked by most standard headers.