pimp2303

i plan on converting my car to have an electric water pump with electric fans.

now, with the water pump who makes good brands. and what all is need for it.

the electric fan i plan on using is coming with my new radiator. so its already set up for my car.

how much more power would doing this give me and anyone have pictures of there electric set up. thanks

109jb

Are you planning a daily driver, or a race car. If going with a driver, I would go with a belt driven water pump.

pimp2303

it will be a daily

pimp2303

why do you say belt driven for a daily driven car.

109jb

Personally, I would have belt driven water pump and belt driven fan. Reason being that if the engine is turning the pump and fan are too barring a belt break. I have had electric fans fail on cars that came with them from the factory leaving me stranded on the side of the road. I carry a spare belt and a few tools in all of my cars and could change a belt on the side of the road if need be. I don't carry a spare electric fan or water pump though. That is my personal preference. Racers use electric to free up every little bit of HP they can. I don't need that on the road for a daily driver.

67mustang302

You don't need to spend money on an electric pump for a street car unless you've gotten to the point where there's not much else you can do to find power.

That being said a good electric like a Meziere is far, FAR more reliable than ANY mechanical pump. They've gone for thousands of hours non stop in testing without failure. A belt driven pump has a side load on the impeller drive shaft from the belt tension, which eventually leads to bearing failure. Electrics don't have that side load so the bearings last longer, and a good electric motor lasts a very, VERY long time. Seals on good pumps either way aren't an issue generally, I've never had a seal go on any of the good aftermarket pumps I've run, it's always been bearings. Electrics also run at a constant flow rate which means at high engine rpm they're still turning at the ideal speed for good cooling, rather than too fast....it also reduces risk of pump cavitation.

That being said, 99% of street cars are fine with a mechanical. I've been running a mechanical high flow Weiand water pump for years now, same pump without issue. Electrics are quite expensive when compared to a mechanical.

109jb

Thousands of hours in testing isn't saying a whole lot. 2000 hours at 50 miles per hour non-stop is only 100,000 miles. I have had mechanical water pumps last far longer than that. As a matter of fact the last 3 cars I have had have all exceeded 200,000 miles on original water pumps, and I currently have 2 cars with over 100,000 miles with factory mechanical pumps. When a mechanical fails it does so with warning either by weeping or by the bearing starting to make noise. You can probably drive home with a weeping mechanical water pump or one with a squealing bearing. The last water pump failure I had was about 10 years ago and was a seal failure that caused weeping that didn't leave me stranded. I drove it that way for a while until I had time to change the pump just by paying attention to coolant level. If that electric motor takes a crap it will do it quick without warning and you won't be going anywhere under your own power.

As far as constant speed, that's fine, but an engine at idle doesn't need as much flow and a mechanical runs proportional to engine speed which is kind of proportional to heat output. The drawback here is that the mechanical is sized for the low rpm condition and flows way too much water at higher rpm which is where the electric gets its benefit.

Cavitation for a street engine should not be a problem. I have never had a cavitation problem on any street car I have ever owned. If you are building a street/strip car with high RPM capability you may run into this.

Last point. It takes a certain amount of energy to spin a pump. Whether that pump is spun by a belt or by an electric motor, the energy to turn it has to come from somewhere. In the case of a mechanical it obviously comes from a mechanical link to the crankshaft which takes horsepower. In the case of an electric, the motor uses electrical power that comes from the battery which has to be replenished (on a street car) by the alternator, which is spun by a mechanical link to the crankshaft which takes horsepower. The electric has the benefit that the pump impeller can be matched to the constant rpm of the electric motor. Race cars get a significant horsepower benefit because many of them charge the battery before each run and let the battery drain during the race by removing the alternator belt or alternator and belt altogether. They simply charge between runs. The advertised claims by electric pump manufacturers gives them about a 10-15 hp advantage over mechanical, but I am sure that this compares to the stock engine. A set of underdrive pulleys can also give this amount of claimed gain.

The only real benefit I see for a street engine is that you would have a little better efficiency (ie: gas mileage), but I doubt you would notice it on a classic V8 mustang. The horsepower gain is really only going to benefit you at WOT and if you are building a daily driver it wouldn't be worth it to me.

67mustang302

Meziere guarantees their pumps to last a minimum of 3,000 hours, but in practice have been known to regularly last 5,000+ hrs. Everything is a tradeoff though, electrics cost WAY more and have equal/better reliability and free up a tiny amount of power. Mechanicals work in 99% of applications just fine but cost way less doing it. Like I said before, there's really no point in putting an electric on a car unless there's not really anywhere else you can search for power(ie, it's already as built up as a street engine can get).

As far as the reliability issue, a good electric motor will hands down last way longer. Look out in the oilfields sometime, a lot of equipment out there is run by electric motors, and some of them have been running almost non stop for decades.

pimp2303

well part of the reason i was thinking about switching is because when i put my A/C in my car, it stared to run a little hot. I am currently running the orig compressor and everything but its running hot. i have a mechanical stock water pump with a 3 core radiator. i was thinking about electrical everything to prevent the over heating.

this is the radiator/fan combo i was planning on getting.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

109jb

When you say your engine "started to run a little hot", what do you mean and how do you know. Did it actually overheat? Just a little higher on the gauge? What kind of gauge? Is it only overheating at low rpm's? Only at high RPM's? These things can help diagnose.

As far as going to electric for this reason, consider that there are millions of air conditioned cars on the road with mechanical fans and water pumps that don't overheat. I have 3 in my driveway right now. If your car is truly overheating, there is a reason for it adn although electric may solve it, an easier cheaper solution is probably out there. Did the car come with factory A/C? If not then the stock radiator is probably too small. An aluminum radiator will dissipate the heat better. A stock water pump should be just fine. Another thing to check is the pulleys. If you or someone else put on the underdrive pulleys I was talking about earlier, then the fan and the water pump are turning slower than designed.

That is a start. let us know the answers to those questions and we can go from there.