Broke 68 Front Bleeder Valve
07-09-2009, 02:39 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 6
5th digit of the VIN is a C (289). Thanks. O'Riellys showed me a new cylinder yesterday, I didn't note the bore at the time so I'll be sure to check on the 1-1/8". Thanks!
07-09-2009, 02:47 PM
#13
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 6
The diameter mentioned is the piston inside the cylinder of which there are 2 per cylinder. You'll have to pull the drum and most likely the cylinder itself to measure the piston or bore diameter as the shoes cover the piston in question. And, you'll need something real accurate to measure as we're talking 1/16" difference between each one if I remember right. If you can hang shoes, you can replace a wheel cylinder. It's just a couple more steps. Either keep the other side in one piece for a reference or take pictures of the springs as you go.
07-10-2009, 11:04 AM
#14
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location:
Posts: 622
General Instructions for drum brake job from autozone-go to their website and you can see the diagrams as well under reapir info. However, I would advise getting yourself a "FORD" shop manual. very informative and the best source I know if for maintenance and repair.
After removig shoes and springs, there are two small bolts that hold the wheel cylinder in. You will also hace to remove the brake line. Make sure you use a good qualit crows foot wrenck and drench the fitting with pb blatter, or WD 40 etc and let sit over night before trying to unscrew the fitting. If the bleeder valve broke, it is likely that the brake line fitting is stuck in there pretty good as well.
If you are going in anyway, buy a new set of hardware (springs etc)-under $20- and shoes and have the drums turned. That way you have fresh front brakes after all is said and done. The job is not rocket science. Just take your time, follow the manual and you will need 3 special tools-a star wheel adjuster, and two spring installers. One looks like a screwdrive with a cup on the end and the other is just a long bent rod with a little fitting on one end that is use to remoce the springs and install. You could get by with a screw driver ad a pair of pliers, but they are pretty inexpensive so would just get the right tools. However, when I was young and broke, I did many brake jobs with the screwdrive and pliers. Sears has a kit with all three for about $25.
Just pay attention to what goes where-the manual has diagrams and lays it out step by step.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 through 15
Fig. Fig. 1: Front and rear brake shoe components on drum brake vehicles
Fig. Fig. 2: The adjusting screw and lever are used to set the starting point for brake shoe travel
Fig. Fig. 3: When you back off the brakes, use a flat-bladed tool to move the star wheel
Fig. Fig. 4: To adjust the brake shoes, start by removing the grommet in the rear of the backing plate
Fig. Fig. 5: Use a brake tool, to adjust the shoes
Fig. Fig. 6: Remove the drum from the axle
Fig. Fig. 7: Clean the brake components using a suitable evaporative brake cleaner
Fig. Fig. 8: Using a brake spring tool ...
Fig. Fig. 9: ... remove the one end of the spring from the anchor pin
Fig. Fig. 10: The brake cable should come off when the retracting springs are removed
Fig. Fig. 11: With one hand behind the plate, grasp the hold-down spring, push down and turn ...
Fig. Fig. 12: ... then, remove the spring and washer from the pin and backing plate
Fig. Fig. 13: The hold-down pin is removed from the rear of the backing plate
Fig. Fig. 14: Grasp both brake shoes and remove them as a unit
Fig. Fig. 15: On rear brakes, disengage the brake cable from the lever
If you are not thoroughly familiar with the procedures involved in brake replacement, only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the other wheel intact as a reference.
Remove the brake drum. See the Inspection procedure.
Place the hollow end of a brake spring service tool (available at auto parts stores) on the brake shoe anchor pin and twist it to disengage one of the brake retracting springs. Repeat this operation to remove the other spring.
CAUTION
Be careful the springs do not slip off the tool during removal, as they could cause personal injury.
Reach behind the brake backing plate and place a finger on the end of one of the brake hold-down spring mounting pins. Using a pair of pliers, grasp the washer on the top of the hold-down spring that corresponds to the pin that you are holding. Push down on the pliers and turn them 90° to align the slot in the washer with the head on the spring mounting pin. Remove the spring and washer and repeat this operation on the hold-down spring on the other brake shoe.
Place the tip of a screwdriver on the top of the brake adjusting screw and move the screwdriver upward to lift up on the brake adjusting lever. When there is enough slack in the automatic adjuster cable, disconnect the loop on the top of the cable from the anchor. Grasp the top of each brake shoe and move it outward to disengage it from the wheel cylinder (and parking brake link on rear wheels). When the brake shoes are clear, lift them from the backing plate. Twist the shoes slightly and the automatic adjuster assembly will disassemble itself.
If you are working on rear brakes, grasp the end of the brake cable spring with a pair of pliers and, using the brake lever as a fulcrum, pull the end of the spring away from the lever. Disengage the cable from the brake lever.
To install:
On rear brakes, the brake cable must be connected to the secondary brake shoe before the shoe is installed on the backing plate. To do this, first transfer the parking brake lever from the old secondary shoe to the new one. This is done by spreading the bottom of the horseshoe clip and disengaging the lever. Position the lever on the new secondary shoe and install the spring washer and the horseshoe clip. Close the bottom of the clip after installing it. Grasp the metal tip of the parking brake cable with a pair of pliers. Position a pair of side-cutter pliers on the end of the cable coil spring and, using the pliers as a fulcrum, pull the coil spring back. Position the cable in the parking brake lever.
Apply a light coating of high-temperature grease to the brake shoe contact points on the backing plate. Position the primary brake shoe on the front of the backing plate and install the hold-down spring and washer over the mounting pin. Install the secondary shoe on the rear of the backing plate.
If working on rear brakes, install the parking brake link between the notch in the primary brake shoe and the notch in the parking brake lever.
Install the automatic adjuster cable loop end on the anchor pin. Make sure the crimped side of the loop faces the backing plate.
Install the return spring in the primary brake shoe and, using the tapered end of a brake spring service tool, slide the top of the spring onto the anchor pin.
CAUTION
Be careful the spring does not slip off the tool during installation, as it could cause personal injury.
Install the automatic adjuster cable guide in the secondary brake shoe, making sure the flared hole in the cable guide is inside the hole in the brake shoe. Fit the cable into the groove in the top of the cable guide.
Install the secondary shoe return spring through the hole in the cable guide and the brake shoe. Using the brake spring tool, slide the top of the spring onto the anchor pin.
Clean the threads on the adjusting screw and apply a light coating of high-temperature grease to the threads. Screw the adjuster closed, then open it one-half turn.
Install the adjusting screw between the brake shoes with the star wheel nearest to the secondary shoe. Make sure the star wheel is in a position that is accessible from the adjusting slot in the backing plate.
Install the short, hooked end of the automatic adjuster spring in the proper hole in the primary brake shoe.
Connect the hooked end of the automatic adjuster cable and the free end of the automatic adjuster spring in the slot in the top of the automatic adjuster lever.
Pull the automatic adjuster lever (the lever will pull the cable and spring with it) downward and to the left and engage the pivot hook of the lever in the hole in the secondary brake shoe.
Check the entire brake assembly to make sure everything is installed properly. Make sure the shoes engage the wheel cylinder properly and are flush on the anchor pin. Make sure the automatic adjuster cable is flush on the anchor pin and in the slot on the back on cable guide. Make sure the adjusting lever rests on the adjusting screw star wheel. Pull upward on the adjusting cable until the adjusting lever is free of the star wheel, then release the cable. The adjusting lever should snap back into place on the adjusting screw star wheel and turn the wheel one tooth.
Expand the brake adjusting screw until the brake drum will just fit over the brake shoes.
Install the wheel and drum and adjust the brakes. See Brake Adjustment.
ADJUSTMENTS
See Figures 16 and 17
Fig. Fig. 16: Remove the grommet from the rear of the backing plate-front brake drum shown
Fig. Fig. 17: Use a brake tool to adjust the shoes
It will be necessary to manually adjust the self-adjusting brakes after they have been disassembled for any reason. The following procedure may be used after reinstalling the drums.
Raise the car and support it with safety stands.
Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting slot on the backing plate.
Insert a brake adjusting spoon into the slot and engage the lowest tooth possible on the star wheel. Move the end of the brake spoon downward to move the star wheel upward and expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the brakes lock the wheel.
Insert a small screwdriver or piece of firm wire (coat hanger wire) into the adjusting slot and push the automatic adjuster lever out and free of the star wheel on the adjusting screw.
Holding the adjusting lever out of the way, engage the topmost tooth possible on the star wheel with a brake adjusting spoon. Move the end of the adjusting spoon upward to move the star wheel downward and contract the adjusting screw. Back the adjuster off (usually 10-15 notches) until the wheel spins freely with a minimum of drag. Keep track of the number of notches the adjuster is backed off.
Repeat this operation on the other side of the car of the set (front or rear) of brakes that you are adjusting. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the adjusting lever must be backed off same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake pull.
Repeat this operation on the other set of brakes (front or rear).
When all four brakes are adjusted, check brake pedal travel and then make several stops while backing the car to equalize all the wheels.
A minimum of 50 lbs pressure for non-power brakes, and 25 lbs pressure for power brakes must be applied when making the reverse stops to adjust the brakes. After each stop the car must be moved forward.
Road-test the car.
After removig shoes and springs, there are two small bolts that hold the wheel cylinder in. You will also hace to remove the brake line. Make sure you use a good qualit crows foot wrenck and drench the fitting with pb blatter, or WD 40 etc and let sit over night before trying to unscrew the fitting. If the bleeder valve broke, it is likely that the brake line fitting is stuck in there pretty good as well.
If you are going in anyway, buy a new set of hardware (springs etc)-under $20- and shoes and have the drums turned. That way you have fresh front brakes after all is said and done. The job is not rocket science. Just take your time, follow the manual and you will need 3 special tools-a star wheel adjuster, and two spring installers. One looks like a screwdrive with a cup on the end and the other is just a long bent rod with a little fitting on one end that is use to remoce the springs and install. You could get by with a screw driver ad a pair of pliers, but they are pretty inexpensive so would just get the right tools. However, when I was young and broke, I did many brake jobs with the screwdrive and pliers. Sears has a kit with all three for about $25.
Just pay attention to what goes where-the manual has diagrams and lays it out step by step.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 through 15
Fig. Fig. 1: Front and rear brake shoe components on drum brake vehicles
Fig. Fig. 2: The adjusting screw and lever are used to set the starting point for brake shoe travel
Fig. Fig. 3: When you back off the brakes, use a flat-bladed tool to move the star wheel
Fig. Fig. 4: To adjust the brake shoes, start by removing the grommet in the rear of the backing plate
Fig. Fig. 5: Use a brake tool, to adjust the shoes
Fig. Fig. 6: Remove the drum from the axle
Fig. Fig. 7: Clean the brake components using a suitable evaporative brake cleaner
Fig. Fig. 8: Using a brake spring tool ...
Fig. Fig. 9: ... remove the one end of the spring from the anchor pin
Fig. Fig. 10: The brake cable should come off when the retracting springs are removed
Fig. Fig. 11: With one hand behind the plate, grasp the hold-down spring, push down and turn ...
Fig. Fig. 12: ... then, remove the spring and washer from the pin and backing plate
Fig. Fig. 13: The hold-down pin is removed from the rear of the backing plate
Fig. Fig. 14: Grasp both brake shoes and remove them as a unit
Fig. Fig. 15: On rear brakes, disengage the brake cable from the lever
If you are not thoroughly familiar with the procedures involved in brake replacement, only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the other wheel intact as a reference.
Remove the brake drum. See the Inspection procedure.
Place the hollow end of a brake spring service tool (available at auto parts stores) on the brake shoe anchor pin and twist it to disengage one of the brake retracting springs. Repeat this operation to remove the other spring.
CAUTION
Be careful the springs do not slip off the tool during removal, as they could cause personal injury.
Reach behind the brake backing plate and place a finger on the end of one of the brake hold-down spring mounting pins. Using a pair of pliers, grasp the washer on the top of the hold-down spring that corresponds to the pin that you are holding. Push down on the pliers and turn them 90° to align the slot in the washer with the head on the spring mounting pin. Remove the spring and washer and repeat this operation on the hold-down spring on the other brake shoe.
Place the tip of a screwdriver on the top of the brake adjusting screw and move the screwdriver upward to lift up on the brake adjusting lever. When there is enough slack in the automatic adjuster cable, disconnect the loop on the top of the cable from the anchor. Grasp the top of each brake shoe and move it outward to disengage it from the wheel cylinder (and parking brake link on rear wheels). When the brake shoes are clear, lift them from the backing plate. Twist the shoes slightly and the automatic adjuster assembly will disassemble itself.
If you are working on rear brakes, grasp the end of the brake cable spring with a pair of pliers and, using the brake lever as a fulcrum, pull the end of the spring away from the lever. Disengage the cable from the brake lever.
To install:
On rear brakes, the brake cable must be connected to the secondary brake shoe before the shoe is installed on the backing plate. To do this, first transfer the parking brake lever from the old secondary shoe to the new one. This is done by spreading the bottom of the horseshoe clip and disengaging the lever. Position the lever on the new secondary shoe and install the spring washer and the horseshoe clip. Close the bottom of the clip after installing it. Grasp the metal tip of the parking brake cable with a pair of pliers. Position a pair of side-cutter pliers on the end of the cable coil spring and, using the pliers as a fulcrum, pull the coil spring back. Position the cable in the parking brake lever.
Apply a light coating of high-temperature grease to the brake shoe contact points on the backing plate. Position the primary brake shoe on the front of the backing plate and install the hold-down spring and washer over the mounting pin. Install the secondary shoe on the rear of the backing plate.
If working on rear brakes, install the parking brake link between the notch in the primary brake shoe and the notch in the parking brake lever.
Install the automatic adjuster cable loop end on the anchor pin. Make sure the crimped side of the loop faces the backing plate.
Install the return spring in the primary brake shoe and, using the tapered end of a brake spring service tool, slide the top of the spring onto the anchor pin.
CAUTION
Be careful the spring does not slip off the tool during installation, as it could cause personal injury.
Install the automatic adjuster cable guide in the secondary brake shoe, making sure the flared hole in the cable guide is inside the hole in the brake shoe. Fit the cable into the groove in the top of the cable guide.
Install the secondary shoe return spring through the hole in the cable guide and the brake shoe. Using the brake spring tool, slide the top of the spring onto the anchor pin.
Clean the threads on the adjusting screw and apply a light coating of high-temperature grease to the threads. Screw the adjuster closed, then open it one-half turn.
Install the adjusting screw between the brake shoes with the star wheel nearest to the secondary shoe. Make sure the star wheel is in a position that is accessible from the adjusting slot in the backing plate.
Install the short, hooked end of the automatic adjuster spring in the proper hole in the primary brake shoe.
Connect the hooked end of the automatic adjuster cable and the free end of the automatic adjuster spring in the slot in the top of the automatic adjuster lever.
Pull the automatic adjuster lever (the lever will pull the cable and spring with it) downward and to the left and engage the pivot hook of the lever in the hole in the secondary brake shoe.
Check the entire brake assembly to make sure everything is installed properly. Make sure the shoes engage the wheel cylinder properly and are flush on the anchor pin. Make sure the automatic adjuster cable is flush on the anchor pin and in the slot on the back on cable guide. Make sure the adjusting lever rests on the adjusting screw star wheel. Pull upward on the adjusting cable until the adjusting lever is free of the star wheel, then release the cable. The adjusting lever should snap back into place on the adjusting screw star wheel and turn the wheel one tooth.
Expand the brake adjusting screw until the brake drum will just fit over the brake shoes.
Install the wheel and drum and adjust the brakes. See Brake Adjustment.
ADJUSTMENTS
See Figures 16 and 17
Fig. Fig. 16: Remove the grommet from the rear of the backing plate-front brake drum shown
Fig. Fig. 17: Use a brake tool to adjust the shoes
It will be necessary to manually adjust the self-adjusting brakes after they have been disassembled for any reason. The following procedure may be used after reinstalling the drums.
Raise the car and support it with safety stands.
Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting slot on the backing plate.
Insert a brake adjusting spoon into the slot and engage the lowest tooth possible on the star wheel. Move the end of the brake spoon downward to move the star wheel upward and expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the brakes lock the wheel.
Insert a small screwdriver or piece of firm wire (coat hanger wire) into the adjusting slot and push the automatic adjuster lever out and free of the star wheel on the adjusting screw.
Holding the adjusting lever out of the way, engage the topmost tooth possible on the star wheel with a brake adjusting spoon. Move the end of the adjusting spoon upward to move the star wheel downward and contract the adjusting screw. Back the adjuster off (usually 10-15 notches) until the wheel spins freely with a minimum of drag. Keep track of the number of notches the adjuster is backed off.
Repeat this operation on the other side of the car of the set (front or rear) of brakes that you are adjusting. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the adjusting lever must be backed off same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake pull.
Repeat this operation on the other set of brakes (front or rear).
When all four brakes are adjusted, check brake pedal travel and then make several stops while backing the car to equalize all the wheels.
A minimum of 50 lbs pressure for non-power brakes, and 25 lbs pressure for power brakes must be applied when making the reverse stops to adjust the brakes. After each stop the car must be moved forward.
Road-test the car.
07-10-2009, 11:26 AM
#15
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location:
Posts: 622
General Instructions for drum brake job from autozone-go to their website and you can see the diagrams as well under reapir info. However, I would advise getting yourself a "FORD" shop manual. very informative and the best source I know if for maintenance and repair.
After removig shoes and springs, there are two small bolts that hold the wheel cylinder in. You will also hace to remove the brake line. Make sure you use a good qualit crows foot wrenck and drench the fitting with pb blatter, or WD 40 etc and let sit over night before trying to unscrew the fitting. If the bleeder valve broke, it is likely that the brake line fitting is stuck in there pretty good as well.
If you are going in anyway, buy a new set of hardware (springs etc)-under $20- and shoes and have the drums turned. That way you have fresh front brakes after all is said and done. The job is not rocket science. Just take your time, follow the manual and you will need 3 special tools-a star wheel adjuster, and two spring installers. One looks like a screwdrive with a cup on the end and the other is just a long bent rod with a little fitting on one end that is use to remoce the springs and install. You could get by with a screw driver ad a pair of pliers, but they are pretty inexpensive so would just get the right tools. However, when I was young and broke, I did many brake jobs with the screwdrive and pliers. Sears has a kit with all three for about $25.
Just pay attention to what goes where-the manual has diagrams and lays it out step by step.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 through 15
Fig. Fig. 1: Front and rear brake shoe components on drum brake vehicles
Fig. Fig. 2: The adjusting screw and lever are used to set the starting point for brake shoe travel
Fig. Fig. 3: When you back off the brakes, use a flat-bladed tool to move the star wheel
Fig. Fig. 4: To adjust the brake shoes, start by removing the grommet in the rear of the backing plate
Fig. Fig. 5: Use a brake tool, to adjust the shoes
Fig. Fig. 6: Remove the drum from the axle
Fig. Fig. 7: Clean the brake components using a suitable evaporative brake cleaner
Fig. Fig. 8: Using a brake spring tool ...
Fig. Fig. 9: ... remove the one end of the spring from the anchor pin
Fig. Fig. 10: The brake cable should come off when the retracting springs are removed
Fig. Fig. 11: With one hand behind the plate, grasp the hold-down spring, push down and turn ...
Fig. Fig. 12: ... then, remove the spring and washer from the pin and backing plate
Fig. Fig. 13: The hold-down pin is removed from the rear of the backing plate
Fig. Fig. 14: Grasp both brake shoes and remove them as a unit
Fig. Fig. 15: On rear brakes, disengage the brake cable from the lever
If you are not thoroughly familiar with the procedures involved in brake replacement, only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the other wheel intact as a reference.
Remove the brake drum. See the Inspection procedure.
Place the hollow end of a brake spring service tool (available at auto parts stores) on the brake shoe anchor pin and twist it to disengage one of the brake retracting springs. Repeat this operation to remove the other spring.
CAUTION
Be careful the springs do not slip off the tool during removal, as they could cause personal injury.
Reach behind the brake backing plate and place a finger on the end of one of the brake hold-down spring mounting pins. Using a pair of pliers, grasp the washer on the top of the hold-down spring that corresponds to the pin that you are holding. Push down on the pliers and turn them 90° to align the slot in the washer with the head on the spring mounting pin. Remove the spring and washer and repeat this operation on the hold-down spring on the other brake shoe.
Place the tip of a screwdriver on the top of the brake adjusting screw and move the screwdriver upward to lift up on the brake adjusting lever. When there is enough slack in the automatic adjuster cable, disconnect the loop on the top of the cable from the anchor. Grasp the top of each brake shoe and move it outward to disengage it from the wheel cylinder (and parking brake link on rear wheels). When the brake shoes are clear, lift them from the backing plate. Twist the shoes slightly and the automatic adjuster assembly will disassemble itself.
If you are working on rear brakes, grasp the end of the brake cable spring with a pair of pliers and, using the brake lever as a fulcrum, pull the end of the spring away from the lever. Disengage the cable from the brake lever.
To install:
On rear brakes, the brake cable must be connected to the secondary brake shoe before the shoe is installed on the backing plate. To do this, first transfer the parking brake lever from the old secondary shoe to the new one. This is done by spreading the bottom of the horseshoe clip and disengaging the lever. Position the lever on the new secondary shoe and install the spring washer and the horseshoe clip. Close the bottom of the clip after installing it. Grasp the metal tip of the parking brake cable with a pair of pliers. Position a pair of side-cutter pliers on the end of the cable coil spring and, using the pliers as a fulcrum, pull the coil spring back. Position the cable in the parking brake lever.
Apply a light coating of high-temperature grease to the brake shoe contact points on the backing plate. Position the primary brake shoe on the front of the backing plate and install the hold-down spring and washer over the mounting pin. Install the secondary shoe on the rear of the backing plate.
If working on rear brakes, install the parking brake link between the notch in the primary brake shoe and the notch in the parking brake lever.
Install the automatic adjuster cable loop end on the anchor pin. Make sure the crimped side of the loop faces the backing plate.
Install the return spring in the primary brake shoe and, using the tapered end of a brake spring service tool, slide the top of the spring onto the anchor pin.
CAUTION
Be careful the spring does not slip off the tool during installation, as it could cause personal injury.
Install the automatic adjuster cable guide in the secondary brake shoe, making sure the flared hole in the cable guide is inside the hole in the brake shoe. Fit the cable into the groove in the top of the cable guide.
Install the secondary shoe return spring through the hole in the cable guide and the brake shoe. Using the brake spring tool, slide the top of the spring onto the anchor pin.
Clean the threads on the adjusting screw and apply a light coating of high-temperature grease to the threads. Screw the adjuster closed, then open it one-half turn.
Install the adjusting screw between the brake shoes with the star wheel nearest to the secondary shoe. Make sure the star wheel is in a position that is accessible from the adjusting slot in the backing plate.
Install the short, hooked end of the automatic adjuster spring in the proper hole in the primary brake shoe.
Connect the hooked end of the automatic adjuster cable and the free end of the automatic adjuster spring in the slot in the top of the automatic adjuster lever.
Pull the automatic adjuster lever (the lever will pull the cable and spring with it) downward and to the left and engage the pivot hook of the lever in the hole in the secondary brake shoe.
Check the entire brake assembly to make sure everything is installed properly. Make sure the shoes engage the wheel cylinder properly and are flush on the anchor pin. Make sure the automatic adjuster cable is flush on the anchor pin and in the slot on the back on cable guide. Make sure the adjusting lever rests on the adjusting screw star wheel. Pull upward on the adjusting cable until the adjusting lever is free of the star wheel, then release the cable. The adjusting lever should snap back into place on the adjusting screw star wheel and turn the wheel one tooth.
Expand the brake adjusting screw until the brake drum will just fit over the brake shoes.
Install the wheel and drum and adjust the brakes. See Brake Adjustment.
ADJUSTMENTS
See Figures 16 and 17
Fig. Fig. 16: Remove the grommet from the rear of the backing plate-front brake drum shown
Fig. Fig. 17: Use a brake tool to adjust the shoes
It will be necessary to manually adjust the self-adjusting brakes after they have been disassembled for any reason. The following procedure may be used after reinstalling the drums.
Raise the car and support it with safety stands.
Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting slot on the backing plate.
Insert a brake adjusting spoon into the slot and engage the lowest tooth possible on the star wheel. Move the end of the brake spoon downward to move the star wheel upward and expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the brakes lock the wheel.
Insert a small screwdriver or piece of firm wire (coat hanger wire) into the adjusting slot and push the automatic adjuster lever out and free of the star wheel on the adjusting screw.
Holding the adjusting lever out of the way, engage the topmost tooth possible on the star wheel with a brake adjusting spoon. Move the end of the adjusting spoon upward to move the star wheel downward and contract the adjusting screw. Back the adjuster off (usually 10-15 notches) until the wheel spins freely with a minimum of drag. Keep track of the number of notches the adjuster is backed off.
Repeat this operation on the other side of the car of the set (front or rear) of brakes that you are adjusting. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the adjusting lever must be backed off same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake pull.
Repeat this operation on the other set of brakes (front or rear).
When all four brakes are adjusted, check brake pedal travel and then make several stops while backing the car to equalize all the wheels.
A minimum of 50 lbs pressure for non-power brakes, and 25 lbs pressure for power brakes must be applied when making the reverse stops to adjust the brakes. After each stop the car must be moved forward.
Road-test the car.
After removig shoes and springs, there are two small bolts that hold the wheel cylinder in. You will also hace to remove the brake line. Make sure you use a good qualit crows foot wrenck and drench the fitting with pb blatter, or WD 40 etc and let sit over night before trying to unscrew the fitting. If the bleeder valve broke, it is likely that the brake line fitting is stuck in there pretty good as well.
If you are going in anyway, buy a new set of hardware (springs etc)-under $20- and shoes and have the drums turned. That way you have fresh front brakes after all is said and done. The job is not rocket science. Just take your time, follow the manual and you will need 3 special tools-a star wheel adjuster, and two spring installers. One looks like a screwdrive with a cup on the end and the other is just a long bent rod with a little fitting on one end that is use to remoce the springs and install. You could get by with a screw driver ad a pair of pliers, but they are pretty inexpensive so would just get the right tools. However, when I was young and broke, I did many brake jobs with the screwdrive and pliers. Sears has a kit with all three for about $25.
Just pay attention to what goes where-the manual has diagrams and lays it out step by step.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 through 15
Fig. Fig. 1: Front and rear brake shoe components on drum brake vehicles
Fig. Fig. 2: The adjusting screw and lever are used to set the starting point for brake shoe travel
Fig. Fig. 3: When you back off the brakes, use a flat-bladed tool to move the star wheel
Fig. Fig. 4: To adjust the brake shoes, start by removing the grommet in the rear of the backing plate
Fig. Fig. 5: Use a brake tool, to adjust the shoes
Fig. Fig. 6: Remove the drum from the axle
Fig. Fig. 7: Clean the brake components using a suitable evaporative brake cleaner
Fig. Fig. 8: Using a brake spring tool ...
Fig. Fig. 9: ... remove the one end of the spring from the anchor pin
Fig. Fig. 10: The brake cable should come off when the retracting springs are removed
Fig. Fig. 11: With one hand behind the plate, grasp the hold-down spring, push down and turn ...
Fig. Fig. 12: ... then, remove the spring and washer from the pin and backing plate
Fig. Fig. 13: The hold-down pin is removed from the rear of the backing plate
Fig. Fig. 14: Grasp both brake shoes and remove them as a unit
Fig. Fig. 15: On rear brakes, disengage the brake cable from the lever
If you are not thoroughly familiar with the procedures involved in brake replacement, only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the other wheel intact as a reference.
Remove the brake drum. See the Inspection procedure.
Place the hollow end of a brake spring service tool (available at auto parts stores) on the brake shoe anchor pin and twist it to disengage one of the brake retracting springs. Repeat this operation to remove the other spring.
CAUTION
Be careful the springs do not slip off the tool during removal, as they could cause personal injury.
Reach behind the brake backing plate and place a finger on the end of one of the brake hold-down spring mounting pins. Using a pair of pliers, grasp the washer on the top of the hold-down spring that corresponds to the pin that you are holding. Push down on the pliers and turn them 90° to align the slot in the washer with the head on the spring mounting pin. Remove the spring and washer and repeat this operation on the hold-down spring on the other brake shoe.
Place the tip of a screwdriver on the top of the brake adjusting screw and move the screwdriver upward to lift up on the brake adjusting lever. When there is enough slack in the automatic adjuster cable, disconnect the loop on the top of the cable from the anchor. Grasp the top of each brake shoe and move it outward to disengage it from the wheel cylinder (and parking brake link on rear wheels). When the brake shoes are clear, lift them from the backing plate. Twist the shoes slightly and the automatic adjuster assembly will disassemble itself.
If you are working on rear brakes, grasp the end of the brake cable spring with a pair of pliers and, using the brake lever as a fulcrum, pull the end of the spring away from the lever. Disengage the cable from the brake lever.
To install:
On rear brakes, the brake cable must be connected to the secondary brake shoe before the shoe is installed on the backing plate. To do this, first transfer the parking brake lever from the old secondary shoe to the new one. This is done by spreading the bottom of the horseshoe clip and disengaging the lever. Position the lever on the new secondary shoe and install the spring washer and the horseshoe clip. Close the bottom of the clip after installing it. Grasp the metal tip of the parking brake cable with a pair of pliers. Position a pair of side-cutter pliers on the end of the cable coil spring and, using the pliers as a fulcrum, pull the coil spring back. Position the cable in the parking brake lever.
Apply a light coating of high-temperature grease to the brake shoe contact points on the backing plate. Position the primary brake shoe on the front of the backing plate and install the hold-down spring and washer over the mounting pin. Install the secondary shoe on the rear of the backing plate.
If working on rear brakes, install the parking brake link between the notch in the primary brake shoe and the notch in the parking brake lever.
Install the automatic adjuster cable loop end on the anchor pin. Make sure the crimped side of the loop faces the backing plate.
Install the return spring in the primary brake shoe and, using the tapered end of a brake spring service tool, slide the top of the spring onto the anchor pin.
CAUTION
Be careful the spring does not slip off the tool during installation, as it could cause personal injury.
Install the automatic adjuster cable guide in the secondary brake shoe, making sure the flared hole in the cable guide is inside the hole in the brake shoe. Fit the cable into the groove in the top of the cable guide.
Install the secondary shoe return spring through the hole in the cable guide and the brake shoe. Using the brake spring tool, slide the top of the spring onto the anchor pin.
Clean the threads on the adjusting screw and apply a light coating of high-temperature grease to the threads. Screw the adjuster closed, then open it one-half turn.
Install the adjusting screw between the brake shoes with the star wheel nearest to the secondary shoe. Make sure the star wheel is in a position that is accessible from the adjusting slot in the backing plate.
Install the short, hooked end of the automatic adjuster spring in the proper hole in the primary brake shoe.
Connect the hooked end of the automatic adjuster cable and the free end of the automatic adjuster spring in the slot in the top of the automatic adjuster lever.
Pull the automatic adjuster lever (the lever will pull the cable and spring with it) downward and to the left and engage the pivot hook of the lever in the hole in the secondary brake shoe.
Check the entire brake assembly to make sure everything is installed properly. Make sure the shoes engage the wheel cylinder properly and are flush on the anchor pin. Make sure the automatic adjuster cable is flush on the anchor pin and in the slot on the back on cable guide. Make sure the adjusting lever rests on the adjusting screw star wheel. Pull upward on the adjusting cable until the adjusting lever is free of the star wheel, then release the cable. The adjusting lever should snap back into place on the adjusting screw star wheel and turn the wheel one tooth.
Expand the brake adjusting screw until the brake drum will just fit over the brake shoes.
Install the wheel and drum and adjust the brakes. See Brake Adjustment.
ADJUSTMENTS
See Figures 16 and 17
Fig. Fig. 16: Remove the grommet from the rear of the backing plate-front brake drum shown
Fig. Fig. 17: Use a brake tool to adjust the shoes
It will be necessary to manually adjust the self-adjusting brakes after they have been disassembled for any reason. The following procedure may be used after reinstalling the drums.
Raise the car and support it with safety stands.
Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting slot on the backing plate.
Insert a brake adjusting spoon into the slot and engage the lowest tooth possible on the star wheel. Move the end of the brake spoon downward to move the star wheel upward and expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the brakes lock the wheel.
Insert a small screwdriver or piece of firm wire (coat hanger wire) into the adjusting slot and push the automatic adjuster lever out and free of the star wheel on the adjusting screw.
Holding the adjusting lever out of the way, engage the topmost tooth possible on the star wheel with a brake adjusting spoon. Move the end of the adjusting spoon upward to move the star wheel downward and contract the adjusting screw. Back the adjuster off (usually 10-15 notches) until the wheel spins freely with a minimum of drag. Keep track of the number of notches the adjuster is backed off.
Repeat this operation on the other side of the car of the set (front or rear) of brakes that you are adjusting. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the adjusting lever must be backed off same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake pull.
Repeat this operation on the other set of brakes (front or rear).
When all four brakes are adjusted, check brake pedal travel and then make several stops while backing the car to equalize all the wheels.
A minimum of 50 lbs pressure for non-power brakes, and 25 lbs pressure for power brakes must be applied when making the reverse stops to adjust the brakes. After each stop the car must be moved forward.
Road-test the car.
08-17-2009, 04:47 PM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Virginia
Posts: 367
I'm right in the middle of this process myself. It's not rocket science, but as stated it needs some attention and care. I feel like I have those pages in the manual almost memorized. Is that from Chilton's?
Good luck with the valve. Has anyone suggested removing the bleeder screw with an EZ-OUT screw remover? It might save dissasembling the entire brakes.
Good luck with the valve. Has anyone suggested removing the bleeder screw with an EZ-OUT screw remover? It might save dissasembling the entire brakes.
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