better front end suspension for 65 mustang coupe
#1
better front end suspension for 65 mustang coupe
hello,
I have a 65 coupe i am currently doing a lot of work on for a customer. most of what i am doing is body work, most all new sheet metal, wheel tubs, etc. he wants to upgrade the steering and handling as well. he keeps getting ragged that all the money he is putting into it will not be worth it because it will not hook up and it will drive like a boat. thats what he is being told anyways. so, i wanted to know what some of the best ways to upgrade this thing would be and companies?
I have a 65 coupe i am currently doing a lot of work on for a customer. most of what i am doing is body work, most all new sheet metal, wheel tubs, etc. he wants to upgrade the steering and handling as well. he keeps getting ragged that all the money he is putting into it will not be worth it because it will not hook up and it will drive like a boat. thats what he is being told anyways. so, i wanted to know what some of the best ways to upgrade this thing would be and companies?
#2
First thing would be to drop the UCA mounting points 1" and move them back 1/8" (iirc). Check out the pages on the DazeCars site about the Shelby drop. He can even sell you a template and drill bit. This is single mod will make more difference in handling than just about anything else you will do to the car, and it costs almost nothing (in parts).
Other improvements include springs and shocks, larger front sway bar, monte carlo bar, and export brace. Subframe connectors wouldn't be a bad idea either, but aren't necessarily required.
For traction improvement, Traction Masters traction bars. Not cheapo bolt-on jobs, the real thing. These will eliminate wheel hop and won't bind the suspension in corners.
Other improvements include springs and shocks, larger front sway bar, monte carlo bar, and export brace. Subframe connectors wouldn't be a bad idea either, but aren't necessarily required.
For traction improvement, Traction Masters traction bars. Not cheapo bolt-on jobs, the real thing. These will eliminate wheel hop and won't bind the suspension in corners.
#4
I'm going to order a few suspension parts soon to freshen up my car from Opentracker. I just emailed them what I plan to do with my car and a budget and they were able to recommend a new setup for me. They may take a week or so to respond because of how busy they are.
But depending on the goal and budget there are tons of coil over kits out there there ranging from about $900 like the bolt on kit from Total Control Products to kits costing thousands more with disc brake conversions also.
But depending on the goal and budget there are tons of coil over kits out there there ranging from about $900 like the bolt on kit from Total Control Products to kits costing thousands more with disc brake conversions also.
#5
hello,
I have a 65 coupe i am currently doing a lot of work on for a customer. most of what i am doing is body work, most all new sheet metal, wheel tubs, etc. he wants to upgrade the steering and handling as well. he keeps getting ragged that all the money he is putting into it will not be worth it because it will not hook up and it will drive like a boat. thats what he is being told anyways. so, i wanted to know what some of the best ways to upgrade this thing would be and companies?
I have a 65 coupe i am currently doing a lot of work on for a customer. most of what i am doing is body work, most all new sheet metal, wheel tubs, etc. he wants to upgrade the steering and handling as well. he keeps getting ragged that all the money he is putting into it will not be worth it because it will not hook up and it will drive like a boat. thats what he is being told anyways. so, i wanted to know what some of the best ways to upgrade this thing would be and companies?
I have done quite a bit of internet research studying feedback from hobbyists and the low budget consensus is 1" lower "620" springs(560 rating), roller perches, good shocks(be careful of stiffness), fatty swaybar, front disc brakes, rack and pinion steering and adjustable strut rods. Parts cost can vary widely from $2800(as listed) to $5000(the full monty as I like to call it).
I strongly recommend a dual master cylinder and proportioning valve. You will more than likely replace all the brake lines too.
This isn't a small undertaking. Do some homework. Talk to some local mustang shops.
#6
First thing would be to drop the UCA mounting points 1" and move them back 1/8" (iirc). Check out the pages on the DazeCars site about the Shelby drop. He can even sell you a template and drill bit. This is single mod will make more difference in handling than just about anything else you will do to the car, and it costs almost nothing (in parts).
Other improvements include springs and shocks, larger front sway bar, monte carlo bar, and export brace. Subframe connectors wouldn't be a bad idea either, but aren't necessarily required.
For traction improvement, Traction Masters traction bars. Not cheapo bolt-on jobs, the real thing. These will eliminate wheel hop and won't bind the suspension in corners.
Other improvements include springs and shocks, larger front sway bar, monte carlo bar, and export brace. Subframe connectors wouldn't be a bad idea either, but aren't necessarily required.
For traction improvement, Traction Masters traction bars. Not cheapo bolt-on jobs, the real thing. These will eliminate wheel hop and won't bind the suspension in corners.
#7
I think it's this
http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/test
It might be productive to find out just how serious the customer is, and whether the car is ever expected to be driven in events where such modifications might affect the classification of the car.
Norm
http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/test
It might be productive to find out just how serious the customer is, and whether the car is ever expected to be driven in events where such modifications might affect the classification of the car.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 11-11-2009 at 11:16 AM.
#8
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/bump
is one of them
or just look up mustang shelby drop template on google and download/print your own for free.
is one of them
or just look up mustang shelby drop template on google and download/print your own for free.
#9
as all the others say:
the shelby drop will improve front end handling and the only thing it'll cost is the labour (daze sells templates for drilling for 10$ or so if you need them)
I haven't done it yet, but everyone is very excited about it. i have planned it for the winter.
The biggest (cheap) improvment I have done to mine (same body as yours) is to add monte carlo bar and export brace.
this gets rid of the front end boat feeling.
You can get those parts from every mustang parts house.
the shelby drop will improve front end handling and the only thing it'll cost is the labour (daze sells templates for drilling for 10$ or so if you need them)
I haven't done it yet, but everyone is very excited about it. i have planned it for the winter.
The biggest (cheap) improvment I have done to mine (same body as yours) is to add monte carlo bar and export brace.
this gets rid of the front end boat feeling.
You can get those parts from every mustang parts house.
Last edited by kalli; 11-11-2009 at 11:24 AM.
#10
Read the Daze article on Mustang suspensions - http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101
it gives a good overview of these old suspensions, weak points and areas you can improve and still stay pretty stock.
There are plenty of guys racing competitively with a few choice upgrades (roller spring perches, adj. strut rods, roller idler arm for manual steer, disc brakes) that translate into a good driving street car also. You don't have to bust the bank or go full coil over/rack & pinion to have a nice performing street car, look at all options and see how much the customer wants to spend and if they want to take their car in the stock/nonstock direction.
Jon
it gives a good overview of these old suspensions, weak points and areas you can improve and still stay pretty stock.
There are plenty of guys racing competitively with a few choice upgrades (roller spring perches, adj. strut rods, roller idler arm for manual steer, disc brakes) that translate into a good driving street car also. You don't have to bust the bank or go full coil over/rack & pinion to have a nice performing street car, look at all options and see how much the customer wants to spend and if they want to take their car in the stock/nonstock direction.
Jon