Rod and Crank Bearings
#2
King rod and main bearings are the best made in my opinion. http://www.kingbearings.com/advantages.html
#4
Our engine is back together and everything looks good. We took the crank out and took it back to the machine shop where they mic'd and repolished the journals and said the crank was OK. We bought new Clevite Pro Bearings the size was the same, .020. The machine shop is bound and determined that because the mechanic used lithium grease and the engine sat in hot conditions for awhile that this is what caused our problem. We bought a bottle of Super Slick Assembly Lube as recommended by the machine shop. The mechanic still says that the lithium grease didn't cause the problem. The engine is fully assembled and oil is in it and the mechanic used the old distributor without the gear to pump oil through the whole system to get the lifters full. The engine can easily be turned over now at the front bolt at the crank. What are your thoughts about lithium grease vs. Super Slick Assembly Lube?
#5
Lithium grease as in the type you would use in a grease gun? If so, that is a bad idea. WAY to heavy to use for assembly grease. Assembly lube is the right way (and the ONLY way in my opinion) to do it.
#6
Assembly lube, that's what it's designed for. Some older guys like to use the white lithium grease because it stays on stuff, but it is way heavy. If I'm putting the engine in right away I just use straight engine oil during assembly since whatever is used gets flushed out when I prime it up anyway, and it won't sit for a while. On a flat tappet cam ABSOLUTELY use the proper assembly lube though.
#8
you can use the white grease on the valves when assembling heads, but always use an assembly lube of some sort on the bearings. we used to use rotella mixed with STP and never had any problems.
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KingRando
2005-2014 Mustangs
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10-02-2015 08:06 AM