HOW TO MAKE A HOOD LOCK FOR A 66 MUSTANG
 

I FOUND A VERY SIMPLE WAY TO MAKE SURE NOBODY CAN OPEN MY HOOD, YET LETS ME OPEN IT AT WILL. I TOOK A FEW PICTURES AND AND TRYING TO EDIT THEM TO SHOW ANYONE INTERESTED, HOW TO DO THIS. IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED PLEASE CONTACT ME AND I WILL BE HAPPY TO HELP. IT INVOLVES SOME CUTTING AND DRILLING, BUT IS EASY TO DO AND WORKS GREAT.

HAVE THE HOOD LOCK SOLUTION IF STILL NEEDED

Heck yeah ! Any way to post the pics?

HOW TO MAKE A HOOD LOCK FOR A 66 MUSTANG
 

SURE, I TOOK THE TIME TO DOCUMENT IT IN A FILE, SO HERE IT IS MY FRIENDS,
MY E-MAIL IS SIRBERIS35@AOL.COM IF HELP IS NEEDED.

MY NAME IS RICH, I ALSO WANTED TO LOCK MY HOOD TO KEEP PEOPLE OUT AFTER WORKING ON MY CAR FOR 7 YEARS TO RESTORE IT. THE MOTOR CAME OUT AWESOME AND PUT NOTHING BUT THE BEST IN THE REBUILD. A FRIEND SHOWED ME HOW EASY IT WAS TO JUMP THE SOLENOID TO START IT. SOME MOUNT THE SOLENOID UNDER THE BATTERY TRAY – BUT TO ME THIS WASN’T THE ANSWER.

I SEARCHED THE INTERNET FOR HOURS, FINDING HOOD PINS AND LOCKS THAT I DID NOT LIKE, WHY DRILL A HOLE IN THE NICE STEEL HOOD AND THEN HAVE THE NIGHTMARE OF LINING THESE THINGS UP

SO I SAT FOR HOURS, LOOKING AT THE HOOD LATCH, THEN I REMOVED IT TO STUDY HOW IT WAS MADE, AND HOW I COULD MAKE THIS WORK.

IT WAS SO SIMPLE WHEN SOMEONE SHOWED ME, HIS NAME WAS JAROD AND HE HAD DONE THIS TO HIS CAR, SO SIMPLE YET TOTALLY EFFECTIVE.

THE CROSS STEEL THAT HOLDS THE 2 METAL FLANGES THAT LIFTS BOTH THE HOOD PIN RELEASE, AND HOOD HOOKS WAS THE KEY. CUT OUT THE CROSS PIECE AND SOMEONE CAN PULL ON THE HOOD RELEASE ALL DAY, BUT WILL ONLY BE MOVING THE 2 HOOKS. AFTER CUTTING THIS CROSS PIECE OFF I CUT OFF THE LEFT HOOD PIN LIFT PIECE AND ROUNDED THE CUTOFF SO IT COULD NEVER BE PRYED UP. THEN I DRILLED A HOLE THRU THE RIGHT HOOD PIN LIFT PIECE AND DRILLED A SMALL HOLE THRU A BOLT FOR THE CABLE. I PUT THE BOLT THRU THE HOLE I JUST DRILLED.
AFTER SNUGGING DOWN THE LOCKNUT I CUT OFF THE EXCESS BOLT.

CUT OFF WHAT I MARKED IN RED, AND CUT OFF AND ROUND THE PIECE I MARKED IN BLUE.

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I PURCHASED BOTH A CHOKE CABLE, AND A LONG CABLE WITH A CHROME PULL FROM ADVANCED AUTO. I FIRST USED THEIR MOUNTING BRACKET UNDER THE DASH AND IT JUST LOOKED CHEESY, PLUS WAS NOT ANCHORED WELL.
SO LOOKING AT THE PARKING BRAKE, AND HOW STRONG IT WAS MOUNTED, I DRILLED A HOLE FOR THE CABLE PULL MOUNT ABOVE THE PARKING BRAKE HANDLE. THIS BOLTED DOWN NICE AND STRONG.
PULL THE CABLE OUT AND GREASE THE INSIDE CABLE AS YOU PUT IT BACK THRU ITS SHIELDING.


I THEN FISHED THE CABLE THRU THE FIRE WALL THRU A HOLE I DRILLED TO THE LEFT OF THE MASTER CYLINDER, FROM INSIDE THE CAR YOU DRILL A HOLE JUST UNDER THE WIRE HARNESS AT THE TOP LEFT.

I FISHED THE CABLE THRU THE FIREWALL, RAN IT ALONG THE TOP OF THE WHEEL WELL, AND THRU A HOLE I DRILLED IN THE RADIATOR SUPPORT. THE CABLE TOUCHED THE MASTER CYLINDER SO I PULLED IT BACK OUT OF THE RADIATOR SUPPORT AND COVERED IT WITH A RUBBER PIECE OF GAS LINE THAT RAN TO THE FIRE WALL,
AND ENDING THE HOSE AT THE FENDER, I PURCHASED BOTH CABLES. BECAUSE ONE HAD THE FITTINGS FOR MOUNTING THE CABLE, AND THE OTHER DID NOT – IT ONLY CONTAINED A LONG CABLE AND HANDLE.

SO I USED ONE OF THE CABLE MOUNTS AND SLID IT DOWN THE CABLE TO THE RUBBER HOSE AND SCREWED IT DOWN IN PLACE ON TOP OF THE DRIVERS SIDE WHEEL WELL.

I HAD ORDERED A NEW PAIR OF SIDE EMBLEMS FOR THE CAR, THE ONES THAT MOUNT UNDER THE BACK WINDOW, ANYWAY, I FOUND THAT THE LOCK NUTS FROM THE OLD ONES SCREWED ONTO THE CABLE TIGHT – BUT NICE.

SO AFTER A COUPLE HOURS OF SCREWING ONE OF THESE DOWN THE CABLE FACING BACK TO FIT ON THE INSIDE OF THE RADIATOR SUPPORT WALL,
I FISHED THE CABLE THRU THIS HOLE AND BEGAN THE TIME CONSUMING JOB OF SCREWING ANOTHER ONE DOWN THE CABLE. THIS ALLOWED ME TO LOCK THE CABLE DOWN TO THE RADIATOR SUPPORT HAVING A NUT THREADED FROM EACH SIDE OF THE HOLE I DRILLED.

NEXT I DRILLED A HOLE THRU THE TOP OF THE HOOD RELEASE BRACKET SO THE CABLE WOULD LINE UP WITH THE HOOD PIN PULL, AND THE NUT & BOLT I MADE.

I THEN CUT DOWN THE CABLE HANDLE MOUNT FROM THE SECOND ONE I PURCHASED AND MOUNTED IT THRU THE HOLE I DRILLED IN THE HOOD RELEASE BRACKET. I PUT IT THRU THE HOLE AND FASTENED THE NUT ONTO IT. I PUT THE CABLE THRU THIS AND SCREWED THREE OF THE LOCKING NUTS ONTO IT TO HOLD IT THERE SOLID. THEN I LOOSENED THE NUT AND BOLT ON THE HOOD PIN RELEASE ARM AND SLID THE CABLE THRU THE HOLE I DRILLED IN THE BOLT, PUT IT THRU THE HOOD RELEASE ARM, AND PUT THE LOCKNUT ON IT, BEFORE TIGHTENING IT PULL ON THE CABLE AND MAKE SURE THE HANDLE INSIDE THE CAR IS SEATED ALL THE WAY BACK, MY HANDLE WAS CHROME AND SAID EDELBROCK RACING ON IT. SO YOU WILL WANT TO SPIN THE INSIDE CABLE UNTIL THE LETTERS ON THE HANDLE ARE FACED RIGHT. THEN TIGHTED DOWN THE NUT AND BOLT WITH THE CABLE GOING THRU IT BEING CAREFULL NOT TO BEND THE CABLE WHEN DOING THIS. CUT OFF THE EXCESS CABLE AND GREASE ALL MOVING PIECES ON THE HOOD LATCH.

THE CABLE ONLY NEEDS TO BE PULLED 5/8” TO RELEASE THE HOOD PIN, CLOSE YOUR HOOD, AND PULL THE HANDLE INSIDE THE CAR, THIS WILL RELEASE YOUR HOOD PIN AND WORK GOOD AND TOUGH FOR AS LONG AS YOU OWN THE CAR. THIS CAN NOT BE SEEN FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE CAR.


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IT TOOK ME A FEW DAYS TO COMPLETE, AFTER FINDING NOTHING LIKE THIS ON THE INTERNET I DECIDED TO DOCUMENT THE PROCESS TO HELP OTHERS WHO SEEK TO DO THIS.

CONTACT ME IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS.
RICH

2nd that, I'm interested.

E-MAIL ME AND I WILL SEND YOU THE WRITE-UP FILE I MADE ON HOW TO DO IT. RICH
SIRBERIS35@AOL.COM